Two years ago, I dropped my 95 max off at my local dealer (DCH Nissan) for an oil change. They said my RMS needed to be replaced. Stupid me let them do it. A year (and 6 days) later, I actually noticed some minor leak, obviously Nissan said I was 6 days passed the warranty. Anyway, cutting long story short. Knowing it is a very involved fix, I have been living with the leak for more than a year now, but recently noticed that the leak had gone worse from about a drop a day to now a 2" spot on the driveway. I am thinking to do something about it.

So here is my questions:

1. Should I even try to do it myself at all. From what I read so far, it involves taking out the cross member, lower control arm, axles and tranny - a major job! I am not much of a mechanic. But with enough preparation (tools etc) and detailed instruction, I think I can probably give a try - not sure it is practical though!
2. there a detailed write up for this? I found in search a couple but mostly for manual (related to replacing clutch), and they are not detailed enough for a newbie. Anyone know whether there is a step by step instruction for the automatic tranny?
3. My Haynse manual mentions to secure the engine from the top. What kind of equipment do you use for that?
4. If I decide to do it myself, what are the other "while I am there" items I should prepare for? Another advantage of do-it-myself in addition to do it right.

Sorry for the long write up, and I appreciate any feedback.

Oh, almost forgot to mention, even it is my daily drive, and also have a weekend fun car that I can use for commuting. So I can take however long it needed for the job...(hopefully, no more than a year).

 

first off, are you sure its the rear main seal that's leaking and not the tranny pump seal?

anyways, if it is the RMS, you'll have to drop the tranny. You can follow the instructions for the 5spd as it is pretty much the same thing for the auto, the only differences are the tranny cooling lines, tranny shifter cable and a few more electrical connectors (2 more I believe).

I usually secure the engine with a jack from the bottom but you can secure it from the top via a cherry picker or a come-a-long.

It is not a very difficult job but does take some time. It involves removing the tranny and the flywheel. then most remove the oil pans (top and bottom) to get to the seal, I've replaced a few without having to remove the oil pans, but its a real pain in the ***. (involves removing the guide pins initially and sliding the seal onto the crank and re-inserting the pins to align everything up.

anyways, it shouldn't take you more than a weekend to do everything.

I would definitely replace the pump seal and both axle seals while you're at it.

good luck.

 

It's called an engine support bar, or engine support fixture. You can get one at Harbor Freight - here's the link.

 

I am pretty sure it is the rear main. I had a couple of people look at it already including Nissan dealer (although I don't take their word anymore). Was tranny pump seal problem leaks the tranny fluid, because I am 100% sure mine is leaking engine oil not the ATF. The thing that I am not sure is whether it is the RMS or the upper oil pan. Guess I wouldn't know for sure until I open it up.

 

Thanks for the link. It seems to be a very nice tool. Does anyone have any experience on it? Was it supposed to be set up on the inner fender of side wall? Is the side wall strong enough for the task?

 

Its more then likely the moon seal from the oil pan vs the actual rear main seal. And in order to replace the seal properly you need to take off the upper oil pan.

Its not that bad of a job. Its just time consuming.

 

the idiot that replaced my trans last june did'nt replace my rms. i wish he had while it was apart.

 

its not exactly that easy.. the upper oil pan needs to be removed.. plus both front and rear seals..

 

speaking from experience, the nissan dealer doesnt removed any oil pan, atleast not the master tech that i know. he removes a tiny bit of rubber from the half moon and he gets it all replaced. did it for me years ago, no issues.

 

yep, once the bell housing is seperated from the block its easily accesible.

 

Ok have to remove my tranny and was looking to do the rear main seal on the A32 as well and cannot see the seal itself on any of the parts lists. Even the full gasket kit does not list a rear main seal.Only front crankshaft seal.
Anyone that has replaced one can you tell me is it all one piece with the rear seal aluminium retainer??
Last month i replaced the rear main on the J30 Maxima i also own and that was simple once the flex plate was removed as you only need to remove the old seal and knock a new one back in.No need to drop the pan and remove the seal retainer. All cars are like this that i have done in the past.
Even the FSM does not mention a seperate seal on the retainer when you replace it!
Thanks in advance for help. Vee

 

Its one entire peice. Metal-like and comes with delicate built-in seals with spring and must be gently slid over that other peice. Then you will have to buy the rubber for where the upper and the lower oil pan meets.

 

+1. Also, I am pretty sure your RMS is good and its only the upper oil pan gasket. I tired that same method of squeezing the gasket in there by slackening the oil pan bolt on each side but it only lasted a few weeks. Next thing is me removing the upper oil pan and redoing the entire gasket because the one in front is leaking even worse.

 

great thanks for the pic. What a stupid idea at least with a J30 Maxima you can just pull the old seal out and push in another without having to remove the alloy holder!!!
Would you happen to have a photo of your flywheel to post so i can see the crank sensor gear wheel attached to it? is it one piece or do they seperate from each other? Cheers Vee

 

Best pic i have. Sorry.

 

Ok thanks for that. Was hoping someone might have had a side on view so you can see both flywheel and crank sensor wheel teeth. Are these a single unit or do they seperate once you have unbolted the flywheel?? Cheers Vee

 

They are indeed seperate. The flywheel comes off without the sensor. The sensor is attached unto something else and sits right in place to sense the flywheel.

 

Brilliant thats the sort of info i was after as not too much info about this anywhere. Cheers

 

the stupid haynes manual doesnt mention anything about splitting the oil pans.

So im guessing from your guys experience, you have to unbolt the upper oil pan to do this job correctly? or can i just unblot the 3 bolts and slide it off the crank?

 

If you haven't done this type of work before, this maybe over your head. It does not mean it cannot be done. Also I would only go by the dealer manual or AllData (about $25/year per car) Haynes manual have way too many errors.

You can support engine using 3 methods. Engine hoister from top (if you have one), or engine support from top (these special tool mounts on top of your shock mounts to support the engine from top, about $100 - $150) or support from bottom using a jack.

If this is automatic transmission, you want to invest in a small transmission jack. Using a floor jack to support transmission is just asking for trouble. One of the worst way to die is to drop the transmission on your chest. You would break several ribs so you cannot scream for help - Painful slow death. Manual transmission is only about 90 lb so it isn't too bad.

Also you must not let the weight of the transmission rest on the input shaft. This will blow the transmission inner seal and only way to replace it is to tear the transmission apart (transmission rebuild).

Exhaust will give you trouble. Bolts will be badly rusted and very easy to strip. They are difficult to remove without good set of tools.