So in 1st gear. She seems super sluggish to the point of were it feels like I am starting in 2nd gear from a start. Idle is fine for the most part. Sometimes idle dips to 300RPM if I slam it into N at a stop sign but that only happens once or twice.

This terrible bottom end power(under 2.5k) is usually when the car is about 10 or so mins warm. When it is cold I still notice it but it isn't as bad. Throttle response is also horrible to the point of pressed the pedal half way to 3/4th for it to get to like 2-3k RPM. From doing a search I have seen some people have similar issues relating to their TPM but their cars dies out, however mine doesn't.

Only codes are EGR and another Knock Sensor. Only use 93. All Tuneup and everything done last July except never did O2 sensors but I doubt that is it.

I have other issues with the car like a possible misfire but I wanna take care of this first.

Really wish I can find a writeup on ohm readings to look for because I have a nice DMM to use for this.


Thanks for ever who can help. Its really bugging me and she is soooo slowww

 

tps maybe...

 

+1 on the TPS thats all i got..

Courtesy of Pmohr
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...niti-fsms.html

have you gone ahead and revved her up at the TB? Misfire?
gotta do some investigations man!

also you mentioned the KS was coding try a 470K resister, see what that does for ya..

 

no misfires with no loud. Just misfires when double tapping the throttle or shifting decently hard on the highway.

 

you check TPS with ohmmeter? should read 550.

 

Check the sweep of the TPS, make sure it's linear and smooth.
You might also check the output signal of the MAF sensor. Just because it's not throwing a code doesn't mean it's working correctly it could have a slow singal response.
You will need a real time scanner to show you it's signal. Swap it with a buddies to quickly see if your power comes back. Also check the condition of your exhaust system. A clogged cat or failed flex section could be at fault.
You mentioned a misfire, has that been resolved?

This may sound silly, but check your air filter. Had a similar issue with my bike last spring. A mouse had made a very well packed nest in my air cleaner.

 

OT but, i feel bad for that mouse when you fired that up.

 

Replace Knock sensor. Bad KS will pull timing back to base and kill all power.
search for "KS sensor, is it worth it"
Your 93 is worthless right now because with your timing curve, regular wouldnt even preignite.

 

This is when the knock sensor resistor mod is a good idea. Use it to troubleshoot. If you disconnect the sensor, and connect the resistor and see an immediate improvement in power, you found the problem. Just make sure you actually change the sensor if it is in fact bad. Search for "knock sensor resistor" if you have no idea what I'm talking about.

 

But there are 2 plugs and each plug has 3 pins in them. Which is which? And When I unplug the, the car reacts kinda weird with the 2nd plug (most closest to the firewall)


Also update



I am getting a P0100 code and it says VAF or MAF circuit malfuction. Of course this is a crappy Autozone tool but it works for now. Too bad I didn't have a snapon one that would tell me it being 56 different things. lol.

And I don't think a knock sensor would cause this much issues. I know power will be bad but legit I am stepping full pedal sometimes and it feels like I have 2 dead clys or starting in 2nd gear from a stop. It gets that bad. I also notice this happens more when I am bumping my system, but it still happens when I am not bumping.

 

When my KS was bad, I could floor it and it didn't wanna move....

 

Maybe not, but all you have to do to check it is unplug the harness, and insert a resistor. It would just rule something out if nothing less, and in troubleshooting, that's a good thing.

 

yeah but I heard the resister mod is kinda bad to do and the whole point of a knock sensor is to someone save your engine. lol. I could I guess try it to go around the block. Which one did I need? like a 450 or 470? I forget. Its been a while since hearing about it.

 

I don't disagree with you. If you look, I'm one of the people saying the knock sensor resistor mod is a bad idea for a long term solution. However, to tell if the sensor is bad you'd only need to drive your car 5 minutes with the resistor in place. As long as you use high octane and its not 140 degrees outside, you should be alright. If it turns out that the problem is the knock sensor, replace it and hook it back up normally.

I think the value is 470 kOhms. Yellow-Violet-Yellow-Gold should do it.

 

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html


Its in the stickies.

 

perfect thanku. That was extremely helpful

Now I am gonna go try it and see wat happens. Next I need to do my MAF sensor.

 

Dude,

Dont do that mod...it only "fools" yur comp to think that the KS is reading correctly. Its not a fix but more of a cheater's way out. Go on ebay and buy a new one and delivered for like 20 or 30 bucks. I got mine off ebay and works great. Alotta ppl have gotten the same one and they all agree it works great. Search for the KS thread. Replace the KS.

For an auto it can really rob power. If the car isnt stuttering, then its not the MAF. If the car jus feels lethargic then its tha KS.

The resistor is a quick fix and i wdnt recommend it since replacing the KS is so easy and cheap

 

so don't do the TPS test? "mod"? llololol

 

KS resistor is not a "mod". I don't know what you've read but it is simply a test to eliminating the KS as the power loss culprit. If he notices gain in HP, the resistor proves he needs a new KS. If it doesn't, his KS is working fine.

It's never been suggested as a permanent fix to knock sensors.



He's talking about the 470k resistor to test if KS is faulty.


I think your TPS is fine. Im guessing its your coil packs or MAF (try grounding it to battery Negative term. . Remember, perform everything one by one so you can ping point the problem.