i wanna switch to synthetics this weekend. is there any difference in the number of miles between changes? is it the same as regular or more for synthetic?
i also have to change my atf and i've read a couple of you posting on the redline fluid. is that synthetic too?
any special filters required for either?

 

I run the same number of miles (maybe 4-5000 instead of 3000) betweeen oil changes of Mobile 1. I buy a lot at a time on sale, and it is only slightly more expensive (about $5-$7) per oil change.

 

Run more miles with synthetic, its the filter that still needs changing. If I am correct, Bill99GXE in his spreadsheet in general forum, was coming upon the conclusion that 3K is sorta needed, but just for the filter. The oil can take more.

My .02 because I am just wasteful and don't care about the environment or my money is that I do it all at the same time at about 3K. I use Mobil1 Tri-Synthetic and a Mobil1 Filter...better second-pass filtering efficiency. I have also heard Wix(sp?) filters are very good as well.

You can pull the filter, but I am not sure how much oil would come out. Equivilant to a full filter I guess? And then install a new one and then top off the oil to proper spec.

If you check out his spreadsheet analysis thread...it can be enlighting....

Good luck!

 

Hey all,

If I'm not getting the cart before the horse, Isn't advisable to have 8-10K miles on a vehicle prior to converting to a synthetic to assure proper break-in?

Which would make one wonder how do they have Brand New Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 in them? Go figure,

All I know from swapping on several vehicles is that you should have a tight engine as synthetics tends to find any small leaks you might have.

Dave

 

for one, we dont have Corvette engines. their break-in procedure is not similiar to ours. Nissan engines actually need a lengthy breakin, unlike most other major brands of car. Not bad, just the way Nissan does engines.

Mobil1 FAQ will enlighten you on the leaking. that was due to the seal material used years ago. All manufacturers now use seal material that will not seep. Only the RX7 is not recommended for Mobil1.

 

thanks guys. good info.

how about the atf? any word on the redline?

 

TimW, could you be a little more specific about "engine break-in procedures"? It seems to me that everyone has their own views about the "proper" way to break-in an engine. Some say drive it hard from day one while others say baby it for 5k then drive it hard. In the owner's manual Nissan indicates a gentle first 1k is good but thereafter drive it as you wish. What are your thoughts on this?

How exactly is a Nissan engine different from a Corvette engine? They both have cylinders, pistons with rings, valves and valve guides, bearings, etc. These parts need to be broken in on both engines.

I really find it very hard to believe that the use of Mobil 1 or any other synthetic on a new/young engine could cause a problem. At worst I would argue that it will cause break-in to take slightly longer. As good as synthetic is, it still allows for wear and this is especially true for a new engine with tight tolerances.

Colonel, from the research I was able to do, you are correct Wix filters are highly rated. Wix also makes filters such as the NAPA Gold and the CarQuest lines. Wix also markets filters under its own brand and I believe that any of these should be a good bet.

Personally, I treat Mobil 1 just like any conventional oil. I recognize that it has some better qualities than other oils and I expect it will help the engine last longer, particularly when it is frequently pushed to its limits. Although there is some evidence that shows you can go longer than 3K, I prefer to play it safe and change the oil every 3-4k.

 

you arent just breaking in the engine.. you are seating the bearings in the drivetrain and breaking in the tranny.

I think the owners manual says it all as far as the 1K break in. However, Nissan engines continue to break in and make more power up through 5000 miles. You'll see. If you read some of the 2K max reviews, if the numbers are alittle low then they usually blame it on the car not having enought miles yet.

as far as Nissan engines versus others, well... some use different finishes and tolerances. Nissans are generally pretty tight off the lot and tend to have a long breakin, followed by 200,000 miles of relatively troublefree service. 200K mile original block porsches and corvettes may be a bit harder to find. but thats not why you buy them.

In my opinion, as I've owned a few, Honda engines are basically broken in on day one (well, they say 600 miles but the engine doesnt seem to change much). However, I found that they require alittle more valve adjustment and such as the years wear on... I've also seen some head work needed in the 120K range. Nothing wrong with that, it's just how their engine is designed it would seem..

 

Would it be wise to use a synthetic blend instead of dino during the first two oil changes (at 3000 and 6000 miles), before going to full synthetic oil? Winter is already here and I would like to take advantage of the cold temperature properties of the synthectic oil, specially during cold start-ups, but I don't want to go full synthectic yet due to the break in. My 2k2 Max just have 1200 miles in it as of today... A synthetic blend may give the engine the best of both worlds...

 

My book says 600 miles for my 2k1 Accord V6 and the salesperson said that "it was broken in on day one" as well. I took it easy for the first 1000 miles, but it still felt sluggish and mileage sucked below 5000 miles. It got a lot better after that, and finally seemed to peak out at about 10,000 miles.

Sounds like how you were describing the VQ pretty much. I think the two engines probably have a similar break-in strategy.

 

dude, what do you drive??