Well, I am very disappointed. I ran almost the same time from when I had the 3.0 and alot less power.

OLD
My best with the 3.0 + (nitrous to launch) + 300whp was:
RT .842
60' 2.112
1/8th 8.62 at 82mph

NEW
My new best time is:
RT.0455
60' 2.168
1/8th 8.525 at 87.3mph (14-15psi)

Another run which I brake boosted alot from the line:
60' 2.5 (alot of spin)
1/8th 8.777 at 87.2mph (notice same trap, this was on lower boost 11-12psi)

This is very very sad. I lowered the boost and was still trapping 86-67mph running similar 8.5-8.6. The only thing I can blame is the turbo, considering I did not loose any power from lowering the boost, based on the calculations I have done its basically out of efficiency, so the HX40 is going in soon, the hx35 is nice for low boost, high compression, but for my low compression which requires more boost, and the pressure I am at, the turbo is no good. the 40 should be more than enough to put me where I want (in the mid 7's). I got the 6blade hx40 which is a 60mm wheel.

One of the videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ce6tdzHRBP8



.

 

You are auto right? Holding boost between shifts?

Sounds like you need sticky tires, also.

Nitrous sure does make for good track times in comparison

 

i have a great turbonetics turbo that should help with that problem almost brand new used for 100 miles and was taken off selling it for 700 neg get back to me if interested

 

what did you run without the nitrous when you had the 3.0 and I also agree can really compare. I spray a small shot with this setup you maybe shocked at the results

BTW the hx35 comes from the factory at 18lbs and made to run on 5-6liter V8's I doubt it's maxed at 15lbs on a 3.5liter V6

 

I was on slicks, yea it holds boost perfectly between shifts. At the end of the night I discovered the auto was dead, so time to replace it. But during the runs, I did notice i was getting less boost in 2nd gear than I got on the street, wonder if its because the uber rotational mass of the 50lb stock wheels vs. the 30something light wheels/slicks, the more load the more spool up. I should have gone without a muffler, since thats part reason why it dosnt allow to fully spool in lower gear/load.

Next track visit, will be with the HX40, open dump, and fresh auto with transgo. I am not going to stop till i get into the mid 7's. I MIGHT seriously consider nitrous for launch, a high stall TC goes for about $400something, a dry nitrous kit goes for like $250 or so, so i might go with that, just for first gear.

 

I may consider the nitrous for sure, cheaper than a high stall tc, I dont think I ever ran without the nitrous on the 3.0.

I am not sure if your familiar with compression maps, but get an hx35 map and plot a vq35 at 15-18psi, and you'll see its out of efficiency (way to the right of the islands on the map). a VQ35 reving at 6k rpm flows alot more cfm than a 5.9 V8 reving at peak 2500 RPM, I have done alot of calculations on this, and it all makes sense, which is why the turbo is out of juice. I have even had this turbo at 20psi, and didnt make nowhere near as much power as it does on 13-15 or even at 10psi.

 

where did you find a compressor map for a holset cause the company does not offer one

please post the pic or a link cause I am looking to get a hx35. **** how much for yours, I have a wet nitrous kit and fjo mini nitrous controller for sale too

maybe we can work out some kind of trade

 

Abdala.

That track is a piece of s&*t, maybe it got better, but the only time i went on slicks i didnt even bother taking another pass. also, you have to do a 2nd gear burn out to get them really hot, youre burnout was not good enough.

get the tranny settled, and for crying out loud, go to palm beach!! let go in feb, what do you say, ima be back home for the first week of feb, ill get a truck and we can rent a car dollie incase to be on the safe side...

 

I'd be down for a FL Track Meet in Feb or Mar at PBIR.

I only do 1st gear burnouts with my 22" MT slicks. I hold it at 5K for about 2-3 seconds and that's usually enough. But other brand slicks require much longer burnouts. The MTs heat up very quickly.

I believe Jime only does a 2-3 second 1st gear burnout in order to achieve his 1.5 to 1.6 60 foot times. Track prep and track temp has a lot to do with it.

I've never tried a 2nd gear burnout though with my tranny. I don't want to try it when my 1st gear burnout is working for me.

 

I had a 5 speed, and 1st gear wouldnt spin them enough.auto maybe different??? if they didnt smoke for me, they werent hot enough.The time i really smoked them up they grabbed and popped the tranny , ha.. well Ill be there the 1st week of FEb, but i go back home alot, so we can def work on a track meet... Abdala ???

 

I'm down for the track, I'll just have to see if I am ready by then. No clue wen I'll b swapping autos, school is in the way.

 

I did some searching and found a few maps that "might" be the real thing, so i went by average, on basically most maps the results were same as far as where I am at.

I dont know if I am going to be selling mine, I might keep it as backup. However I do have another hx35, which is the original one i owned. only thing is that it needs a rebuild, has too much shaftplay.

 

That's why I do not recommend doing a 2nd gear burnout with the automatic. When it grabs, it's way too much stress on the transmission and it may break. And since 1st gear is enough for my MT slicks, I have no need to spin them any faster or longer. But some other brand of slicks do require a much hotter and faster burnout.

With an automatic, you can spin them right around 30-40 mph without bumping the rev limiter.

 

yeah i agree, 2nd gear once tires hook its going to be alot of sudden load on the tranny.

UPDate on the auto: I went for a drive today, drove for a good 30-40 mins, including stop n go lil traffic. shifts feel same as before, it goes through all the gear, however the torque converter is not happy with the abuse I gave it. When cold, at a stop i locked it and did not engage at all, not even a single sign of it trying, thought it was electrical but checked and all is good. So i drove around more got the temps warm, locked it again in traffic and car shut off which means it locked instantly, kept driving and locked it at 40mph, the clutch would lock then disengage then lock, and so on, woudlnt grab completely. Occasionally if I lock it at 40mph + it will lock, I just don kno for how long, didnt drive far enough. So maybe either the solenoid for it is bad or the actual clutch just coudlnt handle the power and slipped itself to death.
I did a few WOT, just to see what happens (with TC unlocked of course since i already know its bad), car feels great as usual, i tried letting it shift into 3rd and took a long time to get into it, only did that once. So that tells me that 3rd gear is not happy either. Bottom line, I should start off with a fresh auto again, then transgo, and im set. I am pretty confident that the solenoid is wats failing and not the actual TC.

 

Let me know when you guys go out to PBIR (meh Moroso !)

Pinks All out is in Sept and I will be going with a few guys.