I couldn't find any threads regarding 6 speed MT slipping. This is happening in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear when I floor it at speed. Rpms spin up but the car just sits and waits for a couple of seconds till the rpms come back down to normal and away we go. I thought it was probably a worn out clutch but it grabs really well when I shift. Going to the dealer next week and I'd like any help possible on this before they try to sell me something I don't need. Thanks.

 

definetly a worn clutch
what do you mean by grabs pretty well when changing gear you dont even apply throttle when change gear.

 

clutch replacement sir.

 

Here is a quick clutch test. While the car is running, put it in gear and let go of the clutch, it it stalls out right away, then the clutch is ok, if it takes it doesn't, then the clutch is history.

 

definitely need a new clutch

 

pull the ebrake, put the car in first gear. If you try to drive away and the rpms climb, you need a new clutch. If the car stalls it is ok.

 

Don't use 1st gear for that test; use 3rd gear for stall test.

 

You can use 3rd gear for the stall test but no e-brake. Just try pulling off in 3rd gear.

 

Thanks for the quick responses. Is there anything else that should be done at the same time as the clutch ( TO, ... ) that would save $ later?

JasonMax - I think I was trying to say ( badly ) that there is no slipping when shifting, just at speed.

 

bearing should come with the clutch

 

Replace the rear main seal while you are in there if you see any signs of leakage

 

Wouldn't 6th gear would be the best gear to test with because it will offer the most resistance to the motor's torque? If you are cruising on the freeway at 60MPH and floor the car in 6th you'll know whether the clutch will hold or not.

 

true but wouldnt that be too low of a rpm?

i would put it in either 3rd or 4th at around 50mph and floor it, if the rpm climbs up and the speed doesnt then you already know the clutch is gone...

by what you have described, it just needs a new clutch.. get the one from exedy-stage 2,and let me know if its worth it lol, ima upgrade in a few months

 

But do understand when you test and you find the slippage, you are making the situation worse i.e. say if you had 5000 miles left on that clutch, the slippage test (assuming it slips) will bring you down to 1000 miles :-( So, if you do this test few times, you will NOT be able to drive to the repair shop! Use your judgment.

Once the clutch is off, throw-out bearing (a dollar part) and possibly rear main seal should be replaced. The garage should NOT try to sell you a new flywheel. There is no need unless you grenade the clutch.

- Vikas

 

You'd have to look at the torque curve of the motor. Going from memory I thought it was pretty close to peak torque by 2500RPM, but it's been quite a while since I've seen a dyno plot for a 5.5gen Max.

 

Forget about testing it and get it replaced. If it slips under ANY driving conditions it needs to be replaced.

The more you let it slip the more damage you're doing to the flywheel. The 3.5 cars have a dual mass flywheel that can't always be resurfaced. If you wait too long you could be looking at a new flywheel which is not cheap.

 

Do you think that it's OK to reuse the stock dual mass flywheel if an Exedy OEM replacement clutch is used? (The OEM kit NSK1002 includes a NON sprung clutch disc, unlike the stage 1 which has a sprung disc)

I remember reading somewhere that dual mass flywheels are considered a "maintenance item" and should be replaced when doing a clutch.

I was curious if anyone replaced their clutch and kept the original flywheel, perhaps cleaning it with some brake cleaner.

I know that people will say "just get the Fidanza," but that adds like $400 to the cost of the clutch job, and it looks like a new OEM flywheel costs similar.

 

You won't know it needs replacing until you have a look at it. I assumed mine would be toast when my clutch died so i bought a fidanza flywheel. (just in case) Turns out my OEM flywheel was still in great shape and could have been reinstalled. But if I had gone to the shop without the fidanza, and if the OEM was toast, the car would have been sitting on the hoist for a few days while we searched for a replacement flywheel.

 

Like knight said, you won't know till it's apart. Chances are it will be OK if you haven't been slipping too bad.

I ran the dual mass with a sprung disk for a short time and had some horrible chattering. It went away when I put the Fidanza back in the car. Other people have run a stage 1 or the 350Z clutch with the stock fywheel and I think they were OK. I used to say "don't do it" but now I think it at least deserves some more research. The Fidanza is nice but I can certainly understand the need to stay within budget.

 

Good point about being stuck on the hoist for a few days while searching for a replacement flywheel

I would do the work myself, so this isn't a big deal, so I would probably just chance it.

What are signs that the flywheel is bad?

Discoloration and uneven surfaces I would assume?

Is there any way to check or replace the "spring" or rubber thing that's inside the flywheel?

I know on some diesel trucks, the flywheel will make a rattle sound during start up and shut down because the elastic material in the flywheel is bad causing it to rattle.

 

The surface should be evenly colored. Any large areas that are darker represent a high spot where it's warped. If it's warped it needs to be resurfaced by a machine shop. Also look for and cracking on the surface.

It it looks good you still want to clean it with some sandpaper or scuff it up with a grinder.

I would call around to some local machine shops and see if they'll resurface the dual mass flywheel. That way you'll at least have a plan incase it's warped.

There are no springs in the flywheel. There may be a rubber bumper or something but I don't think so.