I have a 2000 maxima SE with 85,000mi and auto tranny ....My issue is cuts out above 4000 RPM, almost like a rev limiter, catches immediately as revs drop & cycles, unable to rev higher and will not change gears unless I let off and get below 4000 rpms, it does not slip and rev up,..it just kinda stalls without dieing ...it does this in every gear....It has been doing this for while and I had a bad coil replaced at my shop and was hoping that would have fixed the problem but it didn't ....If you drive it below 4000rpms it acts fine and shifts fine.....could this be the shift solonids or the revolution speed sensor I read about on here ? Any suggestions?

 

I checked and the car will rev to redline in park...so if it was a fuel issue it would not rev to 6000 in park right ? or do I need a load on it to check it?

 

Could be a MAF.

Is your SES light on? Whats the code if so?

Have you changed tranny fluid recently?

 

No code/light and i havent changed fluid recently either...could it be the MAF if it revs to redline in park?

 

More I read around it might be MAF I have a K&N filter I put in years back too...it acts exactly as this guy except I don't have a trouble light on, I see this problem come up alot with MAF sensors doing searches, do you guys think this is where I should start with the (MAF)? Is it easy to do myself ? Do I have to take to Nissan?

describes:"Car ran horrible after first being started, rough around town, and no power after hitting 3500 rpm on the highway. My other symptom was at highway speeds if the car shifted down, like when trying to pass someone, it would go to 3500/3700 rpm and feel like an anchor had been dropped out the back. If I kept the accelerator to the floor the engine would jump to 5500 rpm and just hang there not gaining any speed nor shifting. It would not would it shift up unless you got completely off the gas, the transmission was not working at all like it should.

Needless to say I had the engine trouble light come on, checked and cleared it after seeing it was saying bank 2 running lean. A couple of days later the light was back, checked and said that bank 1 was running lean. Now I was worried that I had two bad problems the engine and transmisson.

I went to the net looking for answers and found this forum and read what was here and a couple other places. I was running a KN filter and had been since the car was almost new. I thought that the statement about this ruining the MAFS was a crock but I started thinking that maybe the oil that the filter is treated with after cleaning it could have an effect over time on the sensor. However it does seem that there are a number of people who are experiencing the same problems that aren't running the KN/s so who the *** knows. I guess as the famous Myth Busters would say, plausible.

I took my car into my local Nissan dealer and told them to see what they could figure out. They came up with the MAFS was bad and that my KN filter had more than likely killed it. They told me they would replace the sensor, reprogram the computer to match said sensor but would not warranty it if I kept the KN in place. I told them to replace it and put a new paper Nissan filter in it's place. I am happy to report that the car is now running as good as it ever has and my transmission problems are gone too. Cost just under 400 bucks to do the job."

 

get your IACV checked ASAP. See if you can see the green coolant crust at the edges cuz thats a telltale sign that your IACV needs to be services or replaced (well thats what the nissan tech said anyways). If the IACV goes, so will your ECU so don't drag this along..
I had the same problem and ended up replacing the ECU. My symptoms included the tranny hesitating at 2500...
Way before that my front precat code popped up which i still have to get fixed...i'm thinking maybe the failing IACV had a hand in messing up the front precat but that still is just a theory...

 

DavidP - I had the exact same symptoms and exact same resolution a year ago. Replaced MAF and all was better.

 

well its been doing this for a year + or so I dragged this along lol....I am still thinking its the MAF ...power has seemed kinda down always with this car too....with no ses light on its a guess

 

My MAF has some torx type head bolts with a dimple in the middle...anyone know what this is called and what size it is ? Will an autoparts store carry it?

 

Does it do that in drive? My tranny hesitates if I move the gear lever from 1-2 while driving. Is that normal?

 

DavidP
Those are called 'TAMPER RESISTANT TORX' heads on the MAF.
I purchased a set of these(driver bits) at Advance Auto Parts.

 

i kinda have the same problem but for me if accelerate it stutters on gear around 4rpm but if im driving in normal speed its fine, and also when i turn my car on and its not fully warmed up and i start driving it stutters alot......

 

I ordered the MAF and will post my results .....

 

ok thanks i would like to know the result

 

I just replaced the MAF and all my power is back,. all the way to redlineVery Happy,.. I bought the MAF off ebay for 74.25 shipped link below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=310197807136

 

i had same proplam
on my 2000
i replace the maf sensor

 

MAF

 

funny how one tiny sensor can ruin driveability

 

MAF I changed it out for $85. at carquest. You should have a new car. I dealt with that problem for 1.5 years because I thought it was the tranny and I couldn't afford to replace that. So I read a lot on the forum and decided to change the MAF......20 minutes later.....THE MAX IS BACK!!!!

 

I'm having pretty much exactly these same problems described on here. However, I just had someone replace the MAF sensor, and it's still hanging at around 5k when I floor it. I had my dad's friend do it, do you think that he maybe didn't reprogram the computer to match the sensor? Or that possibly it could be another problem?

 

Is there any way to check if the computer has been reprogrammed correctly? Or should I just take it to an Infiniti/Nissan dealership?