Do you guys ever have a problem with your.....
I have problem with (I think) my front rotors getting warped. Whenever I brake, the brake pedal vibrates (sometimes very roughly). I took the rotors off and had my mechanic "turn" them. He said that they don't look warped but I should look at getting new ones (front ones) because one of them has a big "gash" right in the middle abour 1.5" long. (The left front) When I asked him if that would contrubite to the vibrating pedal, he said probably not. So my question to you guys is this: Why is my pedal doing this if the rotors aren't warped? I don't have ABS on my 90SE and the "gash" isn't really that deep. Should I get new rotors? If I do, I'll probably get stillen sport rotors. Whadaya think?
About 6 months after I bought my car I had a lot of problems with my brakes. I went & got the pads replaced. Had really bad vibration. Then I took it back. The told me the rotors were warped. Took it to a different place (because the original brake place sucked) and had my rotors turned. I still had problems. I ended up replacing my rotors & brake pads & haven't had problems since.
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Keep us update
Mine does that too, but I think that I have a warped rotor. I just replaced my pads all the way around and the front rotors were turned and then it started doing this. Replacing everything again is not an option for me so, I'll tough it out. It's been getting better and it only does it under light breaking, so I'm clueless.
take the car to a specialist with
a micrometer...they will be able to measure the rotor..they can only be turned so many times....most likely they are below the spec numbers causing the pulsing...meaning you need new rotors
Get the same thing..
but only when I really slam the brakes.... i'll be needing new pads soon, hopefully I can afford new rotors by then as well. Sh*t i just keep discovering new problems every day, I wish I can meet the last owner of my car so I can bodyslam him
Originally posted by Lj90Se
NYCE i know how you feel every Fu(ki|\|g time i fix something i get a new problem if you find yours ill help whup his A$$,If i find mine you come over and help with my max's past owner.
NYCE i know how you feel every Fu(ki|\|g time i fix something i get a new problem if you find yours ill help whup his A$$,If i find mine you come over and help with my max's past owner.
ok...I have the "funds" to buy new rotors, so I'll get them from http://www.alamomotorsports.com install them myself, and tell you what happens....I looked back at all of my car records and it looks like the rotors (front) have been turned 5 (maybe 6) times. The back have been turned 2 times (maybe 3). All of the work before I got the car was done at my local nissan dealer (it used to be my dads car, now mine). I think that this will probably fix the problem. After all, the rotors (all 4) are almost 11 years old with more than 150,000 miles on them (only 15K by me in 3 years) I'll keep you guys (and girls) updated
You may want to go ahead and replace all four rotors. Ricambi has some for front and rear, slotted, cross, both, and I just put new oem pads on at the same time, No problems since!
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I have the brake vibrating thing too. When I brake at high speed (above 50-60 mph) the pedal pulses and sometimes when I bring it to a stop, the last 5 mph or so I get a grinding noise. How hard is it to do the front rotors by yourself? How much should I get charged for a garage to do it? Thanks.
Originally posted by Chris Gregg
You may want to go ahead and replace all four rotors. Ricambi has some for front and rear, slotted, cross, both, and I just put new oem pads on at the same time, No problems since!
You may want to go ahead and replace all four rotors. Ricambi has some for front and rear, slotted, cross, both, and I just put new oem pads on at the same time, No problems since!
nothing is in the back, but I sometimes have my subs/amps in the trunk. When I go out to Scribner, NE (100 miles west of Omaha) to drag race on weekends (been there 4 times so far)I take all of it out. With all my mods, the time's not too bad...before I had to replace a few parts (because of this). I ran 13.99 @ 95.2mph...Thats about .5sec quicker than a 2K GLE..not an SE though...(i wish) I think that the intake and the UR pulley help the most. (Oh yea, I also put the OEM 15's on the front during this) Also deflate the pressure to about 24psi instead of 29-34psi (normal for 205/65/15's)...See why theres no back seats now?
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Pads replacement is easy
and you can DIY. It will take you about 1 to 2 hours totally. IMPORTANT: please prepare a big C-form clamp to push the pistons inside brake cylinders. It seems to me there are no alternatives for the C-clamp.
At the same time the clamp isn't necessary for rear pads.
Good luck,
DDD
At the same time the clamp isn't necessary for rear pads.
Good luck,
DDD
Re: Pads replacement is easy
thanks...i'll order the new ones sometime this week and tell you how it goes...I know how to work on brakes, so it shouldn't be TOO hard for me. As long as the stillen ones (or other brands) fit correctly...OEM size im guessing?
My experiences with this -->
<A HREF="https://maxima.org/forums/showthread.phtml?threadid=3552">My rotor fiasco</A>
I'm enjoying my current setup better than I expected, although cross-drilling still yields a better overall 'bite'.
I'm enjoying my current setup better than I expected, although cross-drilling still yields a better overall 'bite'.
Originally posted by FAST4EN
whats ricambi's website? drilledand slotted rotors would be great
Originally posted by Chris Gregg
You may want to go ahead and replace all four rotors. Ricambi has some for front and rear, slotted, cross, both, and I just put new oem pads on at the same time, No problems since!
You may want to go ahead and replace all four rotors. Ricambi has some for front and rear, slotted, cross, both, and I just put new oem pads on at the same time, No problems since!
Originally posted by FAST4EN
nothing is in the back, but I sometimes have my subs/amps in the trunk. When I go out to Scribner, NE (100 miles west of Omaha) to drag race on weekends (been there 4 times so far)I take all of it out. With all my mods, the time's not too bad...before I had to replace a few parts (because of this). I ran 13.99 @ 95.2mph...Thats about .5sec quicker than a 2K GLE..not an SE though...(i wish) I think that the intake and the UR pulley help the most. (Oh yea, I also put the OEM 15's on the front during this) Also deflate the pressure to about 24psi instead of 29-34psi (normal for 205/65/15's)...See why theres no back seats now?
nothing is in the back, but I sometimes have my subs/amps in the trunk. When I go out to Scribner, NE (100 miles west of Omaha) to drag race on weekends (been there 4 times so far)I take all of it out. With all my mods, the time's not too bad...before I had to replace a few parts (because of this). I ran 13.99 @ 95.2mph...Thats about .5sec quicker than a 2K GLE..not an SE though...(i wish) I think that the intake and the UR pulley help the most. (Oh yea, I also put the OEM 15's on the front during this) Also deflate the pressure to about 24psi instead of 29-34psi (normal for 205/65/15's)...See why theres no back seats now?
on a VG, that's a fuggin awesome time.. the fastest I've seen on a 3rd gen is 13.8 and he was running NOS, Cams, lotsa other stuff on his VE- not a VG..
what mods you got, cuz what you've got listed can't be all of 'em.
I'd like to see a timeslip too.. (not calling you a liar, I'd just like to see it)
ok...yea there are more mods...but I dont have time right now...I'll post them tomorrow....I'll go find my timeslip (its around here somewhere) and scan it into the computer and post it up for you guys
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