Hey guys i'm probably gonna change out my rear brake pads/rotors.

I have the haynes manual and followed how to change it. But i have a question. The manual says to unclip the parking brake cable (at the rear caliper) and unhook it. i don't really get how to do this? is it just supposed to snap off or something?

Also... what is the idea behind unscrewing the brake fluid reservior?

thanks!

 

unless your changing the caliper, i dont think you have to unclip the parking brake cable.
As for the unscrewing the brake fluid reservor....im not even sure thatspossible, unless you meant bleeder screw.

Just take off wheel, tkae off caliper (2 bolts), slide out old pads, clean down everything (brake cleaner), regrease slider pins, push piston back in to accept new pads, put everything back.

 

oh i am planning to change both the pads and rotors. But in both cases, haynes says to unclip the parking cable first? I can't see to find where you are supposed to unhook it?

any hints to make it a little easier?

 

I think the brake fluid reservoir they are referring to is the one in the engine bay by the firewall that you put brake fluid into. When you depress the calipers to put the new pads in the volume in the system decreases, so unscrewing the cap lets the air escape. If you don't unscrew it maybe your lines could rupture or something. Just unscrew it till it is loose, don't take it off. I don't remember messing with the parking brake when I did mine, just make sure you buy the little piece that let's you turn in the caliper piston. The front brakes just push in, the rear ones you have to push and turn. Hope that helps some.

 

+ 1
You can use needle nose pliers, but this just makes it easier. ~ $8 at your local auto parts store.

 

Its not a brake fluid reservoir its a master cylinder. yes you should take the top off when your depressing the piston.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVpCs...2C64F&index=14

In the video above he unhooks the parking brake at 44 sec

 

Open the bleeder screw on the caliper before pushing & turning the piston back into the caliper. Why push that contaminated fluid back into the brake lines? I suspect the fluid near the caliper piston seal gets the most contamination, use this opportunity to get rid of as much of it as will come out of the bleeder from returning the piston. If the brake fluid reservoir on top of the master cylinder is low then top it off with fresh fluid.

 

I know this is an old post, but for future readers with a Haynes manual (like me), if you're going to change the rear rotors taking the e-brake cable off the caliper is not difficult. The cable end is shaped like the letter "C" and has no retainer clips of any kind, take the mounting bolts off and pivot the caliper until it's over the opening, then support it to keep weight off the brake hose.

 

I like to place a bleeder hose on the bleed screw on the caliper when pushing or rotating the piston back in. Rotating for the rear piston. That way the pressure is relieved, no overflow at the master, and old fluid purged. This is a good time to bleed out old fluid and gravity will do the trick. look for fluid to go from brown to gold. Pump if you like but watch your capture bottle. Close bleeder screw, remove hose, Done.
Rotating the rear piston in can be problematic if it has been extended quite a way. Inward pressure while rotating. I bought a universal screw tool at O'Reilly for about $12 but it works on 8 different configurations of piston.

 

DO NOT DO THIS unless you know how to bleed your brakes. If your worried about conamination you need to flush your system. This will only cause headaches and spongey brakes. OTOH, replacing pads without bleeding can cause a siezed caliper.