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Knock Sensor Annoyance

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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 12:33 PM
  #1  
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Knock Sensor Annoyance

So I have read alot of KS replacement and have seen the tuorials in the how-to's but today the KS replacement is getting annoying.

While watching pmohr's video and the other picture trutorial in the how to's, I can get anywhere near the KS bolt with my hand or the wrench. I have attached a pic of something that is getting in the way, because when I watch Pmohr or follow the how to (pictorial), I don't see this in the way.



NOTE: I took this pic from an overhead view, the KS is to the right in this pic, way back in (as you all know)

It is bolted on in about 4 areas with 10mm bolts that are even harder to get at than the KS, and I'm wondering what it is and why I didn't see it in either of the how to's. How can I work around and get in there to get at this thing.

So what is this thing, and how can I get around it. I have very small hands, much smaller than pmohr's, and yet he can reach in to his KS with his hands and I'm at least 3 inches away from it with my hands and nearly impossible to get the wrench in their.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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There is no pic, you can always just do the resistor mod and be done with it. Also you should only need a 12mm wrench. You kind of have to put your arm in a kink, but all you need is a wrench.

Last edited by maximized98; Feb 21, 2010 at 01:29 PM.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rdw72777
So I have read alot of KS replacement and have seen the tuorials in the how-to's but today the KS replacement is getting annoying.

While watching pmohr's video and the other picture trutorial in the how to's, I can get anywhere near the KS bolt with my hand or the wrench. I have attached a pic of something that is getting in the way, because when I watch Pmohr or follow the how to (pictorial), I don't see this in the way.



NOTE: I took this pic from an overhead view, the KS is to the right in this pic, way back in (as you all know)

It is bolted on in about 4 areas with 10mm bolts that are even harder to get at than the KS, and I'm wondering what it is and why I didn't see it in either of the how to's. How can I work around and get in there to get at this thing.

So what is this thing, and how can I get around it. I have very small hands, much smaller than pmohr's, and yet he can reach in to his KS with his hands and I'm at least 3 inches away from it with my hands and nearly impossible to get the wrench in their.

12 mm socket and swivel with like 6 extensions

watch this video type it in ur web browser http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk

Last edited by luke95gxe; Feb 21, 2010 at 01:28 PM.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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This car has more things 1-2 inches just out of (normal) reach than anything I've owned before.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rdw72777
This car has more things 1-2 inches just out of (normal) reach than anything I've owned before.
lol yeah they tend to be like that but u got to love the power did u watch that video

Last edited by luke95gxe; Feb 21, 2010 at 01:38 PM.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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I watched both vids, I don't have the swivel and only have a 6 in extension so we'll see.

Anyone tell me what that green switch is that I circled? Curious why I don't see it in anyone else's vids/pics. Honestly, there is no way to get even a normal sized hand in there with that thing in the way.

Maybe that's the problem too, Americans are on average much bigger than Japanese. Is it possible things being 1-2 inches out of reach is just because the average american is bigger than the average Japanese person. Half joking, half serious.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Just unplug that green connector. Then put a piece of duct tape over the piece that is held by the 10 mm bolt. Now you can stick your hand in there without bloodshed.

You can also put duct tape over sharp/rough edges in the surrounding area for added convenience.
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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My hands were too big, even after removing the FPR. I finally broke down and got my roommate's girlfriend (an ex-Kiowa mechanic) to reach in with her slender little fingers and remove (and later install) the KS. I broke it free with a universal and extensions, she just removed it by hand.
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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There's a 10mm nut on the bottom of the green sensor. Just use a swivel head or crows foot wrench to take it off, and you'll have a lot more room.
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rdw72777
I watched both vids, I don't have the swivel and only have a 6 in extension so we'll see.
There's the problem. Get a swivel and more extensions. I started with 3/8ths drive, all the extensions, then 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, more extensions, swivel then short socket...It'll save you a lot of trouble.
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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470K resistor mod FTW.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Dbear, what is the green sensor anyways? I don't see it in any of the pictures or videos I've seen on the Knock Sensor instructions.

Not that I have a crows foot wrench or even know what it is, but I'm always looking to learn what different things are. Though I did manage to break some of the tubing that attaches to the green sensor, so that's just great.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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Trust me, the KS is the ****tiest sensor to replace on a max. I have rather large hands, and I culd barely manage to do it. Had my gf at the time try, but she wouldn't stop complaining =D

Just go and get ur self some lube, wd-40 or criso, lather ur hand up, prepare to draw some blood and get it over with. In fact, putting the new one back on is more painstaking then getting the old one off.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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Knock Sensor replaced

Finally got in there, but while jamming my hands in I broke some tubing that is linked to whatever this green sensor is. Going to post pics of the old KS in a new thread, shocking how bad it looked.

So that's the next project, because it looks like I broke the tubning and the nozzle on the green thing, so whatever the green thing is will be my next project.

Ironically, I just can't figure out what this green thing is. I've looked in my Haynes guide and can't find a picture of it in the KS replacement section (its missing from where it would be in the pix). So this should be fun, replacing a part I don't even know what it is...off to the salvage yard on Monday LOL.
Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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That sucks, yeah that sensor is a PITA! Looks like you're already done but in case you have to get back in there, once you have the sensor unbolted bend the metal bracket as far down as it will go, this gives you even more room to get your hand in there. This is what gave me the crucial extra room for XL hands to get in there. When you're done bend it back up level. The metal is just flexible enough to be bent although it requires a little force. As far as getting the bolt out: extensions, uni, and short socket should be good. Also nice to have a magnet pick up tool and/or magic fingers. Good luck at the salvage yard.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rdw72777
Dbear, what is the green sensor anyways? I don't see it in any of the pictures or videos I've seen on the Knock Sensor instructions.

Not that I have a crows foot wrench or even know what it is, but I'm always looking to learn what different things are. Though I did manage to break some of the tubing that attaches to the green sensor, so that's just great.
I think the sensor is the ECRC solenoid, although it might be the MAP/BARO sensor. I forget which. And this is what a crow foot wrench looks like. http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAg#ps-sellers I found a 10mm one at Sears a few years ago for a couple of bucks. You put a socket entension through the square hole, and you can turn it sideways.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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I understand your plight man. I have average sized hands and it was very difficult for me to get in there to get the wrench on. It took me a little bit, but I finally got it. It's nice to have my Maxima running closer to the way it should!
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by luke95gxe
12 mm socket and swivel with like 6 extensions

watch this video type it in ur web browser http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk
this
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Its way easier to just go grab and intake gasket set and take the plenum and manifold off, less headache, less bleed, and def quicker.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by strocket
Its way easier to just go grab and intake gasket set and take the plenum and manifold off, less headache, less bleed, and def quicker.
i disagree but to each his own seems like alot of work to do for something that took me all of 5 mins to do with the tools i had 12mm short socket swivel costs like 3 bucks at sears and a couple more extensions
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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If I were to just take the longer way around and take off the exhaust manifold to get to the knock sensor, would I have to reseal anything? I'm kind of new to this, but anytime I've attempted this job it's resulted in failure! No one really knows how to do this where I am, and it's bugging me that I haven't replaced this sensor! I don't have enough extensions to really get in there, so how can I go about this?
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Celired
If I were to just take the longer way around and take off the exhaust manifold to get to the knock sensor, would I have to reseal anything? I'm kind of new to this, but anytime I've attempted this job it's resulted in failure! No one really knows how to do this where I am, and it's bugging me that I haven't replaced this sensor! I don't have enough extensions to really get in there, so how can I go about this?
buy a long 12mm box wrench

ps if ur going to buy a intake gasket why dont u just but another 6in extension
and u would be taking the intake manifold off not exhaust

Last edited by luke95gxe; Mar 12, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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I think I'll just remove that stupid green socket with what DBear suggested, and then I'll have enough room to get in there and see what I'm doing. I'm gonna check that out, thanks!
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Celired
If I were to just take the longer way around and take off the exhaust manifold to get to the knock sensor, would I have to reseal anything? I'm kind of new to this, but anytime I've attempted this job it's resulted in failure! No one really knows how to do this where I am, and it's bugging me that I haven't replaced this sensor! I don't have enough extensions to really get in there, so how can I go about this?

Read the How-to. THere are MANY methods to removing the KS bolt, including mine.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cashoit
Read the How-to. THere are MANY methods to removing the KS bolt, including mine.
I'll re-read them all before I try to go tackle this, thanks for the input
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by luke95gxe
12 mm socket and swivel with like 6 extensions

watch this video type it in ur web browser http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk
did u watch this video?
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by luke95gxe
did u watch this video?
It doesn't look like the Max in the vid has the sensor. Fed spec v. Cali? Although Celired is in TX...
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DBear
It doesn't look like the Max in the vid has the sensor. Fed spec v. Cali? Although Celired is in TX...
i dont think it did i keep forgettin bout cali spec
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:59 PM
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Naww mines not cali, I've watched the video a few times, but when I go to do it, it always seems wayyy more complicated than what I saw in the video, plus I don't have the proper extentions so that would probably be my problem. I'm gonna get a new extention, maybe a 12" or something, I have the other stuff. I'll hopefully get it done tomorrow if not today! Thanks for everyones help!
Old Mar 14, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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I just did mine a while ago. Get the right parts. That's the secret to the success in this activity.

Craftsman #943532 - 14" extension for 1/4" drive. The secret to success in buying this part is that the shaft and the head are very thin. That will permit it to fit up in the little notch that the tech in the video uses to create the leverage to stay on top of the bolt to loosen it. Cost for this part is $11

Craftsman #943198 - 12mm flex socket for 1/4" drive. Once again, if you listen to the video it is suggested to use a 6 point socket. This is one, and it does make the job easier than the 12 point socket that I thought was 'good enough'. Cost of this part is $6

When you combine these two parts with your 1/4" drive you have all the parts needed to get the job done. Have a cool engine. And if you can, have a 9-yr-old helper for threading the bolt back on with the new knock sensor. One of the other comments was right on - getting the bolt back on is harder than getting it off!

Best of luck!
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jclowes
I just did mine a while ago. Get the right parts. That's the secret to the success in this activity.

Craftsman #943532 - 14" extension for 1/4" drive. The secret to success in buying this part is that the shaft and the head are very thin. That will permit it to fit up in the little notch that the tech in the video uses to create the leverage to stay on top of the bolt to loosen it. Cost for this part is $11

Craftsman #943198 - 12mm flex socket for 1/4" drive. Once again, if you listen to the video it is suggested to use a 6 point socket. This is one, and it does make the job easier than the 12 point socket that I thought was 'good enough'. Cost of this part is $6

When you combine these two parts with your 1/4" drive you have all the parts needed to get the job done. Have a cool engine. And if you can, have a 9-yr-old helper for threading the bolt back on with the new knock sensor. One of the other comments was right on - getting the bolt back on is harder than getting it off!

Best of luck!
All i used was a 12mm ratcheting box wrench. It took 15 minutes and my friend with smaller hands than myself was able to get it off and back on with no problems. It just takes a little time to get a feel for where the bolt is.
Old Mar 17, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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I finally got to change my knock sensor yesterday! It took approx 3 hours trying to get to the bolt with a 12mm wrench. But then I ran to Autozone and bought a Universal Joint. I used that with (2) 3" extensions and (1) 6" extension it worked amazingly fast! Here's a pic of my old knock sensor.

Old Mar 17, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Sadly...

My KS looked worse than any I've ever seen posted on here. I put the new one on, but the code came back but oh well. I can probably change out the harnesses (I know, should have done this originally) but now that I've done this once its not really as hard as I made it.

Still wish I was certain what the green sensor is since I damaged the tubing going into it. I'll live lol.
Old Mar 18, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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I got mine off my '95 in like 30 mins. Was amazed how easy it actually ended up being. My hands are about average. Just used an extension then went in by hand.
Old Mar 18, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Mine's still in there too. I'll finally get around to it now that I know more about it. I might have to pay you a visit.

Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
470K resistor mod FTW.
Old Mar 19, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #36  
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Hey all, could use some help. Just failed inspection and pulled the following codes. P0325 twice, P0500 twice and P0600.

I already had the speed sensor replaced...didn't notice anything wrong with it in the first place.

Could it really be the ks? and what is P0600. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Old Mar 19, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
Mine's still in there too. I'll finally get around to it now that I know more about it. I might have to pay you a visit.
If your ever around the Philly area, I could help you out if you need.
Old Mar 20, 2010 | 08:24 AM
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i changed my knock sensor and it was a pain in the azz..wasn't as easy as the youtube videos. i have a 99 and it was no where as accessible as it is in the video. my hands were cut up.
Old Mar 20, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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i'm about 2hrs north of philly. Have you ever done it on a '99?

Originally Posted by Mistertones
If your ever around the Philly area, I could help you out if you need.
Old Mar 24, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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I just bought my 99 se 5spd max a couple of days ago and I'll be changing the knock sensor tomorrow probably.. a question though, what does it do exactly? I've read about it and watched some videos but can someone be straight up with it..? I wanna know if it causes the car to lose power or something.. if so, how much?



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