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Engine cranks then dies

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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #1  
beansrmajikle's Avatar
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From: Edmond, OK
Engine cranks then dies

I'm pretty new to the site and post mainly in in the newbie section and the regional forum for Oklahoma, but am really needing this issue resolved. So far the only conclusion I have been able to come to is that my car is possessed.
I was having issues with my old motor having very little compression. I replaced a bunch of internal goodies for it to still not run, so I picked up a salvage motor out of a 97.
I throw this thing in the car, and when fired up it dies. I kept the intake system from the old one and that's it. By intake I mean upper intake mani, TB, IACV, MAF, IAT sensor, TPS, and vacuum gallery A. I know it's not the new motor because they fired it up at the salvage yard.
The TPS is the only sensor that is going bad that I could check without the car running. The only thing is that the one that was on the car is in worse shape so I guess I can kinda rule that out. When I did a search I found that the TPS can fry the ECU. I don't know if I'm making any sense, with this one but the onboard diagnostic system doesn't work. It won't show the code and the CEL doesn't even come on with the key in the on position. I know the bulb is good as well as the connectors. I am one more bad sensor away from the looney bin. By the way, all the injectors, coil packs, plugs, fuel filter, and fuel pump is good. If I take the upper intake off, all I can smell is gas.
Anyone have any similar issues? Oh I'm trying to further finance this project by parting out the old motor. Most everything is in excellent shape if anyone wants to check it out.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ock-parts.html
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 02:07 AM
  #2  
beansrmajikle's Avatar
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Well I have solved the stalling issue, but now the idle drops to 500rpm when warm and hunts a little bit going back and forth from 500 to 700. I figure it needs an idle air relearn, but can't do the procedure because my CEL and onboard diagnostic tool don't work. The latter caused by the former I'm assuming. Now to go to the stealership to pay them 100 bucks hoping that fixes the problem.
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:41 AM
  #3  
max ride 41's Avatar
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clean your maf dude, uim, and then set your idle
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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The TPS burning up the ECU is a 5th gen issue, not a 4th gen issue.
Is the diagnostic set screw on the side of the ECU in the correct position?
If it's not centered the ECU will not operate correctly.
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:51 AM
  #5  
cashoit's Avatar
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From: Worcester, MA
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
The TPS burning up the ECU is a 5th gen issue, not a 4th gen issue.
Is the diagnostic set screw on the side of the ECU in the correct position?
If it's not centered the ECU will not operate correctly.
+1

As you kno, the light should come one with key in "on" position. Check to make sure **** is in correct position.
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #6  
beansrmajikle's Avatar
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The MAF is clean, and the UIM is spotless, but I don't want to reset the idle when it was fine before. The exhaust smells like it is running rich. I guess the MAF could be going.
I moved the screw to the far counter clockwise cause that's what it said on the ECU and the FSM, but I'll move it and see what happens.
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