After reviewing the pros and cons of getting the headers to lose the cats. I have decided to consider getting a y-pipe and high performance cat instead. What I am not clear on is where exactly is the third cat? is it in the front exhaust tube just before the resonator?

I saw racing line selling this high flow cat, which I assumed that I would need it welded somewhere but not sure exactly. Also if anyone is using Cattman's Y-pipe with no cats on (AT). If the Cattman y-pipe has the option of no cats, what is the noise level with the stock resonator & mufflers?

Both offerings i'm sure are great products but it is hard to distinguish which would be best suited to my liking. If only there were headers that don't require extending the o2 sensor reading...

 

Just get the Y-pipe without the cat. You don't need it, you will pass emissions (if they don't do a visual) keep you stock Y and put it back on before emissions if you are worried about it.

The third cat is in your stock Y-pipe, yes before the resonator. Noise level will be just fine. The Y-pipe doesn't change the sound that much. Changing your resonator and mufflers would do that for you.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/dealership-...rformance.html


shows the difference
from 3 cats down to 1
makes a difference

worth it

 

3 cats down to 1? Not in those pics. But I really like the side by side with the stock Y-Pipe.

 

If you aren't going to get headers, y-pipe without cat is fine.

 

The main reason why i'm not going for headers is because of the climate I drive in. If it was jut a summer car for me than I might, but aside from that... not really. I'm still waiting on racing line to come out with the replace HAF cats that connect to the headers, especially if they are cheaper and better than the OEM. I also heard that having a ceramic core is the best but will break apart with the heat and vibration vs the metal core?

 

Read your other post about the salt etc. Makes sense.

I am running a spun metal cat in my Y-pipe right now. It's the only cat on the car. I had 3 different shops tell me it's to small and wouldn't pass emissions. The told me I'd have to get a ceramic "brick type" cat to pass.

I passed emissions. I agree with your decision on the Racingline pre-cat set up. I don't think it will produce the gains of the Cattman Headers BUT I think there will be some gains and probably not any CEL issues. I think it's great to have both options for our cars.





THIS ISN'T MINE BUT YOU CAN SEE IT INSTALLED IN THE CATTMAN Y

 

After a failed attempt at removing my front exhaust pipe from the flange to the resonator to replace the leaking gasket. I am considering taking off the y-pipe from the pre-cats, how hard would this be? I believe it should only be 6-bolts to be taken off, but also noticed as per drawing it's pretty tight to the tune of 51 ft/lbs as well the location is difficult to get at. Can anyone here shed any light as to how difficult it is to take off when taking 5-6 years of never being removed and corroded now. I am considering doing this in the garage with just a jack and jack stands. I'm not sure how much the shop charges but I have been told $90/hr which imo is a load of garbage, or should I really bite the bullet already?

 

Hey man. Met you at Busse Woods Sunday. I know an exhaust shop on 83 and Hintz in Prospect Heights. Shoot me a PM.

 

Actually I don't think so. I wish I did... I believe Chicago is like 12-14 hours south from me...

 

Oh crap. lol Had to be a guy with a similar name. Haha

 

I didn’t remove my Y-pipe till like 1-2 month ago.
Man this took me...... 3 days of removing and putting stuff back togethere, but it was really like 7-8 hours of labor time To try and take off the damn Stock down pipe. I tried one thing after another at failed attempts to take it off the last 3 bolts. That connected to headers. (The one of the back). I lost 2 sockets and I used PB blaster. That didn’t’ work. I stripped every bolt. Then I bought an impact gun with a special Socket that removes stripped bolt heads.... I went through 3 of those completely gone.

Then I had to buy a blow torch to get the bolt red hot hammered it a little used a pipe for some more leverage. And BAM... that did it. This may not be your case.... But it could happen. This was a horrible nightmare. But it was worth the work and learned some new tricks along the way. The power gains are crazy you will feel it instantly. It’s worth the trouble if it gives you any.

btw were you that guy that posted a while back having a hissing sound whenever you accelerated? anyways have fun doing the swap.

 

Actually I have no intentions of swapping anytime soon unless racing line releases those replacement cats sometime soon. Its the gasket on the flange that goes from the third cat to the resonator. I ran over a large raccoon that was already dead on a highway road with barely any lighting late at night. I just found that the leak is due to the bolt being actually snapped. So since drilling out the bolt is next to impossible I found I have to take down the y-pipe down and the b-pipe as well. But after looking at them it seems extremely difficult to do so... So based on your response, and given i'm not even replacing the y-pipe I may as well bite the bullet already and go to the exhaust shop to have them put on the gasket and bolts, etc.

 

You could try to remove the bolt... (Just a thought) they sell special tools to get the job done. It might even be fun. And get the replacement bolt at a nissan dealer they should have it. And if I am not mistaken I think you still have stock exhaust system? You should really change that with a Nismo exhaust or even a catman exhaust system. Personally I think the Nismo exhaust is nice. I have it on my car it looks sweet. The dual tips weren’t working for me. But that’s just personal preference. So yea...

 

Ya my whole car is stock, even I can't say changing to a K&N air filter is a "mod". The big problem I have is actually taking down the y-pipe, and the b-pipe is a lot easier. Even changing my front exhaust hanger I couldn't replace it easily because of the interference from the exhaust. I have no problem attempting to extract the threaded barrel bolts, but getting the y-pipe down is a PAI. I'm just afraid the shop is just going to drill them out and say screw it with the threads and simply oversize the holes on the flanges. Even though I already have the replacement hardware. I'm going to try and see if I manage to thread the bolt back the way it came in with some special vise grips I picked up today. How did you take off the other harder to access bolts from the y-pipe to the manifold?

 

So you are not getting the Y-pipe? Bummer. I think your wise to just take it to a shop. I usually try to find the smaller (not chain) muffler shops.

 

Well I do want the y-pipe but it all depends, I have about 3 months to get the y-pipe and install it. If the shop is going to be charging me more than what I find reasonable then I just may get the y-pipe and do the install myself as it would have to come down as well anyway. I'm stuck with deciding if I want to spend some coin on a y-pipe vs trying to stay stock for now.

I just looked at the manifold what needs to be removed looks straight forward. Take out the manifold heat shield which is like 2-3 corroded bolts, then I believe I should already be able to access the all 6 bolts connecting to the precats. Then I have to deal with taking off the barrell bolts off the flange that connects to the resonator's flange. Anyone know if the y-pipe kits from cattman and racing line are complete with all the necessary hardware? Considering losing the 3rd cat as I shouldn't turn up any codes if I do for my 5AT right?

 

They come with everything you will need. I bought a racing line Y-pipe it came with everything. There are some things you should buy though. Like the bungs and the gasket that connects to the resonator. No sensor light will come on you won’t get a check engine. I suggest you buy bolts from the dealer though just to be on the safe side if you strip a bolt head. If I remember right I think they only gave me like 3 or 2 bolts that connect to the resonator I can’t remember which part as part of the original kit...... and I used some of the stock bolts (the ones that still worked) I had to buy 3 new bolts.

If all you’re doing is getting a Y-Pipe and no headers. You don’t need to buy a catalyst converter honestly if you want your car to be not so damn loud don’t get headers. The Y-pipe will free up a lot back pressure (that’s being choked by the stock Y-pipe) and give you a slight sound change although you will get a ton of sound change if you add a muffler system. I don’t know how loud a catman muffler system is I never heard one in person they claim is not so loud yet give you great Gains. I can tell you though that the Nismo mufflers are loud at first but once you break them in they quiet down. And the car sounds real beefy & throaty it’s not to loud at the 1.5k to 4k RPMS... it’s a nice sound. Once I tossed the Y-pipe in the car it actually quiet down some more at cruising speeds of 60 to 68 mph. I am using a Injen CAI. What more can I say man. Just get the Y pipe. Get that busted bolt out. Hope this helps you make a decision.