I know its a dumb question but thought i would ask befor i go switch them out

 

They are fairly easy youll need a c-clamp to compress the piston in the caliper, and a 12mm wrench for the two bolts on the back side of the caliper, Didnt know if that was the info you were looking for ... as for tips, make sure they work prior to chirping 2nd lol

 

its about the easiest thing you could do to your car! just dont forget the caliper tool! and anti squeel grease stuff! lol and check the how to's on bedding them... you getting new rotors? if so, you may need a hammer in the rears lol... i know i did last time...

 

i do know the fourth gen's front calipers the caliper slides tend to stick since you already there make sure you spray an a**load of brakleen in the bracket and on the slides then anti-seize both the slides and the bracket and you wont have any problems as for the rear you need a sst to retract the piston (sst= special service tool) you can buy it at any parts store or just use a pir of vise grips (turn the piston counter clockwise)

 

if you are replacing the rotors make sure you get a can of brake cleaner to clean the residue off the new rotors because if you don't you may rear end someone..

 

^^ well put

 

I need all new brakes but cant afford it so im just gunna do the pads for now.

 

thanks everybody

 

duralast golds are GREAT! i had 2 sets before i paid the extra 15 bux for the golds and damn they grab that rotor really good. i think i paid 47.99 for front set and 20 each rotor to get turned.


by the way you get these from autozone...

 

wear gloves...as well as what everyone else said, lol

 

dont use a c-clamp on them. they need to be screwed back in. its threaded and if you start just clamping on it your going to ruin the calipers! some people can get away with using pliers in the grooves to turn them in but you should just get the tool. either rent it from AZ and return it for the full refund. or buy the little one that addapts to your wratchet... its just a little block with 6 different sides...

people, if im wrong correct me! but last time i did my brakes on my max thats how my calipers were! so unless it changed year to year!

 

The rears have to be turned back in. The fronts can be compressed with a clamp.

 

Sorry to threadjack,

I tried doing mine a couple of weeks back and found that some of the slide pins were seized up.
How can I change/fix them?

 

take a long hammer with like a chizel ended driver and bang the crap out of them.....o heat them up first with a torch and they come out fairly easy....friend of mines were rusted so i had the bang both sides out

 

You actually rotate the piston clockwise to get the piston back in. I just finished fixing my rear calipers 20 mintues ago. To rotate that piston back needle nose pliers works fine for me.
After you bang out those guide pins you'll have to replace them. They'll come in a package along with the boots for both left and right for around $15. You'll also need some brake grease.

 

Ah...i assume they're pretty damn hard to get out?
Horrible position to be doing that too, with the brake line attached

I'll try if it works

 

Doesn't change from year to year, does change from front to rear though.

 

If you cant bang them out or pull them out. Go to auto zone a buy a new caliper bracket or buy a used caliper bracket and replace the pins.

 

To make things easier for you here:
Front Brakes

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle, then remove the wheels.
2. Remove the bottom guide pin from the caliper and swing the caliper cylinder body upward.

Loosen and remove the bottom guide pin ...
... then rotate the caliper upwards
Remove the pads from the caliper mount

1. Remove the brake pad retainers and the pads.

To install:

1. Compress the piston of the disc brake caliper.
2. Install the brake pads and caliper assembly.
3. Lubricate the guide pin. Tighten the guide pin to 16-23 ft. lbs. (22-31 Nm).

Compress the piston into the caliper
Lubricate the guide pin before installing it

1. Install the wheels.
2. Apply the brakes a few times to seat the pads. Check the master cylinder and add fluid if necessary. Bleed the brakes, if necessary.

Rear Brakes

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Release the parking brake and remove the cable bracket bolt.

Remove the cable bracket bolt then pull the bracket from the caliper
Remove the bottom caliper pin bolt ...
... then rotate the caliper upwards
Remove the pads from the mount

1. Remove the bottom pin bolt and lift off the caliper body.
2. Pull out the pad springs and then remove the pads and shims.

To install:

1. Clean the piston end of the caliper body and the area around the pin holes. Be careful not to get oil on the rotor.
2. Carefully turn the piston clockwise back into the caliper body (this can be done with a pair of needle nose pliers). Take care not to damage the piston boot.
3. Coat the pad contact area on the mounting support with a silicone based grease.

As an alternative, a pair of needle nose pliers can be used
Be sure to lubricate the guide pin before installing it

1. Install the pads, shims, and the pad springs. Always use new shims.
2. Position the caliper body in the mounting support and tighten the pin bolt. Be sure to lubricate it first.
3. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle.
4. Apply the brakes a few times to seat the pads. Check the master cylinder and add fluid if necessary. Bleed the brakes, if necessary.

 

Well that answered every noob question about brake pad changing

 

Nice pictures. Brakes are fairly easy job, but this all helps! I feel that my front rotors are warped. Hopefully they can be turned or new ones would be pricey!

 

If you have OEM rotors they can be cut, they'll just take about maybe a little off to smooth them and make them better. That should hold you until they're warped again. Then after that buy a new set. Does your brake pedal pulsate a little when you try to stop.
You can buy at Auto Zone for a good price
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=44-0

 

Hmmmm...that was a good pictoral. Very nice indeed.

Some follow up questions to those who have done breaks before....

So all i have to grease are the guide pins?

Why would I need to remove the top guide pin and why either one sieze? oops, i prolly need to remove both if im doing rotors too.

Is the piston compressor the only special tool needed?

 

the FSM doesnt even mention how to replace pads. It only describes procedure for removing pads. Nothing about re-installing.

 

Before you compress the cylinder I think you are supposed to remove the cap on the brake reservoir. This allows for the fluid to "back up" when you compress. I think that Haynes recommends that you put a towel around the brake reservoir also in case some fluid overflows. I did take the cap off but didn't use the towel. Fronts are a breeze but the rears are a bit of a pain. The parking brake cable as I recall was just a pain. Good luck

 

You don't open the cap if you're installing new brake pads. You need the hydraulic pressure, if you have the cap open you will get air in the line which will cause you to have to bleed the whole system. And you don't want that.
When you compress the brake piston pressure will build up and you need that pressure when you press the brake pedal, otherwise your brake pedal will be soft every time you press it not to mention you have to press further than normal to stop. And you don't want that.

 

Haynes Chapter 9 Brakes 9-5 3 Disc brake pads-replacement
1. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. Remove about two-thirds of the fluid from the reservoir.

You remove the cap and some of the fluid because when you compress the cylinder it causes the fluid to "back up" in the system....remember you can't compress a fluid so it has to do something....back up. Haynes says to remove some of the fluid so it doesn't overflow the reservoir. Furthermore, Haynes says to refill the reservoir after you've finished installing the new pads. You won't need to bleed the system as long as don't open a line and introduce air into the system. Just opening the reservoir cap won't introduce air as you have the fluid in the reservoir all the way down to the cylinder at the brakes. Capise

 

Really nice 'pictorial' - I'll be changing mine either later today or tomorrow....

 

thanks for this. I changed my rears and turned the pistons in quite a bit (seized) to loosen them up. When reassembling, i pressed the gas pedal withOUT the reservoir cap and then with it on. Is this the correct method?

I still feel its a bit squishy though. I didn't remove any lines so i don't see how I could get air into the system. Fluid level is the same.

 

Two possibilities:

- If it feel squishy you might have air in the system. And you would probably need to bleed the system again through all 4 calipers.

- When you press the pedal the cap should be on to build up pressure, with it off you will actually lose pressure, and it could be the reason why it feels squishy.

When you brake, do you have to press the brake all the way down for the car to stop?

 

how can I get that caliper off safely? both bolts are out, it should just pull off right? I think the piston is pressing the pad into the rotor - it grinds abit occasionally when driving.

 

Are the pads worn out or is it that you put a new set of pads on and its putting force on the rotors as you drive. It should come off, you may have to wiggle it a lil bit to take it off, make sure you dont put too much force when taking it off, the lines are delicate and you dont want to break them.

 

Sounds like your calipers might be seized. When I replaced my seized front calipers 3 years ago they were also stuck on the bracket. Spray on PB blaster then let it sit for at least 30min. Now place a flat screwdriver between the caliper and the bracket and slowly give it force.

To keep the brakes from ever sezing again I now grease these up every 3 to 4 months: guide pins, pad clippings, and caliper piston

 

Thanks ! The pads are old. & squeaking while driving, I think I will try prying it up with a screwdriver against the top of the rotor.

 

Loosen the brake resevoir cap and let it sit on top so dirt doesn't get in the resevoir. Releasing that cap will relieve brake pressure.

 

What about different pad types? Mine are OK for the moment and I'll bet they're Nissan OEM. My old Celica I replaced the stock with cheap semi metallic pads. Don't think I'll do that again. What about ceramic pads?

 

Ceramic pads are great, plus they have a free replacement warranty at AutoZone..cant beat that.