ok idk whos been stayin up to date to my horrible couple of weeks but my car broke down and 2 mechanics said it was the clutch and ended up being first gear blown. so i replaced the clutch with a competition stage 2 clutch kit lightly sanded down the flywheel installed a used trans and new starter.

so i installed everything and couple of issues.
1. getting out of first or reverse causes a good amount of chattering
2. it is pretty hard to get into reverse evrytime and sometimes hard to get into first
3. when i turn the wheel to the left i feel some lil vibration i guess. idk how to explain it but it doesnt do it when i turn right just left.


i would love to know if the stage 2 is really that serious to cause chattering and if i bleed the clutch more would that help the chattering and/or the stiffness going into first or reverse

thanks for any help in advance

 

My stage 1 chatters but just starting out in first.

 

Did you adjust clutch freeplay? Sounds like that needs to be adjusted. With the car running you should be able to go from first to reverse with the clutch depressed with no resistance and vise versa, you can find out how to perform a clutch adjustment in your FSM. Clutch chatter is only experienced on clutch engagement (as you let the clutch out). Bleeding is only to get rid of the air trapped in the line if you have a mushy pedal then bleed again till the air is removed.

 

ok thanks guys i never adjusted the pedal cuz my mechanic said you cant adjust a hydraullic clutch?? but i dont have the manual is there any link or how to on adjusting it

 

Never use that mechanic again he's retarded. To adjust the clutch it's going to be painful, l have a 4th gen so hopefully it's the same. You have to bend your neck and look up above the pedal, their will be a rod running into the clutch master cylinder that is connected to the clutch pedal. Their will be a lock nut on the rod 12mm, if l can remember correctly. Loosen it and turn clockwise on the rod you will see marks on the rod were you can grip it with needle nose pliers. Turn it a few rotations at a time then try the first to reverse test with the car running. It should shift smooth, if not turn the rod a few more rotations and repeat till adjusted.

 

ok thanks alot man

 

just outta curiosity, any particular reason you went with a stage 2 clutch? is that reccomended if you wanna run simple bolt-ons or are you planning on going FI eventually?

 

have plans or turbo chargin it lol so playin it safe then sorry

 

I would recommend a Stage 2 clutch for simple bolt-ons if you launch your car. I run a Competition Clutch Stage 4, 6 puck ceramic on my Supercharged 95, with 12lbs of boost and the 00vi. What l have found is if you want to launch your car, you need to goto stage 2 and beyond it's not all about horsepower it's also how you drive it. A OEM clutch on a stock maxima will hold the power, but will not last longer than a week if you launch it. You will need all that extra clamping force and a friction material that can withstand high heat in order to launch without killing you clutch.

My clutch can withstand 3000K launches back to back, but daily driving is hard with an on /off switch and the chatter is sometimes unbearable. But thats the little sacrifices we have to make to beat those 5L's with are 4DSC.

 

I would recommend a Stage 2 clutch for simple bolt-ons if you launch your car. I run a Competition Clutch Stage 4, 6 puck ceramic on my Supercharged 95, with 12lbs of boost and the 00vi. What l have found is if you want to launch your car, you need to goto stage 2 and beyond it's not all about horsepower it's also how you drive it. A OEM clutch on a stock maxima will hold the power, but will not last longer than a week if you launch it. You will need all that extra clamping force and a friction material that can withstand high heat in order to launch without killing you clutch.

My clutch can withstand 3000K launches back to back, but daily driving is hard with an on /off switch and the chatter is sometimes unbearable. But thats the little sacrifices we have to make to beat those 5L's with are 4DSC.

 

reason i ask is cause the clutch on my 10 year old max is on its way out. im getting it replaced soon with an OEM clutch and the only future mods i have planned for the car is gonna be a y-pipe and a spacer and that's gonna be about it.
i figured the factory clutch could withstand just a few more ponies. is it really necessary to go stage 2 if im planning on going with just a few bolt-ons?

 

The factory clutch can withstand a few more ponies like a K&N panel filter in my opinon. The y-pipe on the other hand frees up about 20 ponies thats pushing it. And with that extra power you will want to race and the oem clutch can't withstand any abuse (launches) at all or repeated racing.

I found out that the 4th gen clutch was under designed for the engine output, to weak of a pressure plate. When they first released the 4th gen max in 95 Car and Driver magazine noticed that the clutch slipped on a WOT pull in 3rd gear and the clutch was not redesigned in 97 it was left inadequate. Not to sure about the steps the engineers took in it's redesign for the 5th gen especially with the addition of the 00vi.

To be on the safe side l personally would put in an Exedy stage 1 organic clutch, a very reliable and easy driving alternative to the weak oem clutch. And for under $300 in the group deal section it's a no brainer. That clutch will last with the power levels of minor bolt-ons and some racing, if it's on it way out anyway it's better to be safe than sorry, l speck from experience l have installed an OEM, a Centerforce DF, a Spec and l finally found one that can do what it claims, break axles instead of slip. Competition Clutch.