View Poll Results: Do you have High Intensity Discharge Lights?
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How many of you have HIDs? + Foglight rewire for alarms
Foglight rewire for alarms complete + Poll
Here is my story:
About two years ago, I ordered and installed a retrofitted HID projector set from some person off Ebay. They were: badly designed (random drill holes everywhere) and somewhat badly put together (the projector was literally shoved in there along with the shrouds, so the high-beam shields were stuck open).
I managed to fix it up a bit and got everything working properly. /Rant over.
After I installed them, I realized that my stock alarm, when set off or in panic mode, will honk and flash the high beams. As we all know, this is a bad thing for hid systems, especially the bulbs. So I had to disable it by removing the alarm relay that triggers the high beams.
Today:
Well, I finished installing my fog lights today, and also finished rewiring them for independent use from headlights or side lights.
A bright idea came up, and that was to use the fog lights as flashers for the stock alarm, since the high beams are not to be used.
My Philosophy:
Everything must be in a condition to be able to return to stock configuration at anytime. Anything done must be able to be undone.
That said, I know the How-to stickies has a link on how to rewire fog lights, but I didn't want to tap into the side marker lights for power, and instead wanted to do something different.
So, I thought I'd do a write-up for how to use your fog lights as signalers and as flashers for your alarm, as a thank you for all the help I've received from the .org over the years.
About two years ago, I ordered and installed a retrofitted HID projector set from some person off Ebay. They were: badly designed (random drill holes everywhere) and somewhat badly put together (the projector was literally shoved in there along with the shrouds, so the high-beam shields were stuck open).
I managed to fix it up a bit and got everything working properly. /Rant over.
After I installed them, I realized that my stock alarm, when set off or in panic mode, will honk and flash the high beams. As we all know, this is a bad thing for hid systems, especially the bulbs. So I had to disable it by removing the alarm relay that triggers the high beams.
Today:
Well, I finished installing my fog lights today, and also finished rewiring them for independent use from headlights or side lights.
A bright idea came up, and that was to use the fog lights as flashers for the stock alarm, since the high beams are not to be used.
My Philosophy:
Everything must be in a condition to be able to return to stock configuration at anytime. Anything done must be able to be undone.
That said, I know the How-to stickies has a link on how to rewire fog lights, but I didn't want to tap into the side marker lights for power, and instead wanted to do something different.
So, I thought I'd do a write-up for how to use your fog lights as signalers and as flashers for your alarm, as a thank you for all the help I've received from the .org over the years.
Last edited by Akiyukio; Jul 1, 2010 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Finished
Write up is now DONE!
Tools Required:
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Electricians Pliers
Wire stripper
10mm Hex Bolt Socket / Ratchet
Scissors
Materials Required: (Links are exactly what I used)
Electrical Tape (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103348)
Electrical Connectors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3060975)
Wire (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062650)
-- I used this mainly because I had lots of it left from another project of mine. I think you can get a larger gauge wire (smaller diameter), as long as it's not smaller than OEM.
Diodes (Optional) (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036268)
Patience (Not sold at your local RadioShack)
Some common sense
A little bit of know how in car mechanics and how things work.
--I'll try and go into detail about everything, but incase I missed something, that is where your know how will kick in.
Standard Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for anything you do wrong. Proceed with caution and do it slowly. If you are unsure, re-read what I wrote, or ask questions.
Before Starting:
Disconnect your car battery before starting. This is only to prevent short circuits and idiot mistakes that could cause a fuse to blow, or worse.
Notes: This is my 99 Cali Spec Auto. Your relay box layout may be different.
Also: I took these pictures after I finished my project.
With Cover removed: 
Tip: The top left corner relay in this picture is labeled "Lamp".
For me, this is the relay that gets activated when your alarms go off.
Background: Our fog light relay are ground controlled, meaning the circuit is completed when a ground (pathway back to the battery) is provided. The 12v+ end is supplied when the headlights are turned on, but since we want to rewire it so that the fog lights can be used whenever, we need a constant 12v+ source. I choose the stock alarm plug shown here:
This is the PinOut: 
The blue arrow is a controlled ground. It is only active if your alarms are active.
Tools Required:
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Electricians Pliers
Wire stripper
10mm Hex Bolt Socket / Ratchet
Scissors
Materials Required: (Links are exactly what I used)
Electrical Tape (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103348)
Electrical Connectors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3060975)
Wire (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062650)
-- I used this mainly because I had lots of it left from another project of mine. I think you can get a larger gauge wire (smaller diameter), as long as it's not smaller than OEM.
Diodes (Optional) (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036268)
Patience (Not sold at your local RadioShack)
Some common sense
A little bit of know how in car mechanics and how things work.
--I'll try and go into detail about everything, but incase I missed something, that is where your know how will kick in.
Standard Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for anything you do wrong. Proceed with caution and do it slowly. If you are unsure, re-read what I wrote, or ask questions.
Before Starting:
Disconnect your car battery before starting. This is only to prevent short circuits and idiot mistakes that could cause a fuse to blow, or worse.
Notes: This is my 99 Cali Spec Auto. Your relay box layout may be different.
Also: I took these pictures after I finished my project.
With Cover removed: 
Tip: The top left corner relay in this picture is labeled "Lamp".
For me, this is the relay that gets activated when your alarms go off.
Background: Our fog light relay are ground controlled, meaning the circuit is completed when a ground (pathway back to the battery) is provided. The 12v+ end is supplied when the headlights are turned on, but since we want to rewire it so that the fog lights can be used whenever, we need a constant 12v+ source. I choose the stock alarm plug shown here:
This is the PinOut: 
The blue arrow is a controlled ground. It is only active if your alarms are active.
Last edited by Akiyukio; Jul 1, 2010 at 04:43 PM. Reason: Introductions now complete
Ok shut up and take give me the writeup already!
Gather all your tools, and a drink. I did this all outside, even though I could have went inside to cut wires, crimp things together, etc etc. All pictures are click-able for larger versions.
1. Remove your relay box cover on the passenger side of the car. This should be easy, but incase you are new or don't know which one, the relay box cover I am referring to is here:
There are tabs on the side of the cover that you pull slightly outwards in order to release the latch.
2. Move your coolant reservoir to somewhere nearby so you have more room to work with. To remove, gently pull upwards and slightly to the rear of the car. There is a tab/slot that holds the reservoir in place.
I choose to put mine here: 
3. Start removing the relay box, there are two 10mm hex screws to take out. It will help if you remove the relays that are blocking the bolts.
Close ups: 
and 
To remove the relay, insert a flat blade screw driver here:
and pull up: 
4. Remove the relay box mid section. This is done on two sides. First, the engine bay view side, then the fender view side.
On the engine bay view side, there are four tabs that need to be pried backwards gently, so that the relay box midsection can be pulled upwards. This requires patience so you don't break anything.
The view from the fender side has two of the same tabs, as well as a squeeze type tab that requires you to push them inwards towards each other (Shown with the downward pointing arrows.)
Engine Bay Side:
and Fender Side: 
Tip: You may be pushing the wrong tabs on the fender side when you are trying to push the middle tabs together:
Here is a rough diagram: You want to Push the "Push Tab" towards the "WIDE SPACE HERE".
PLASTIC | Push Tab |Space| Plastic Piece | WIDE SPACE HERE | Plastic Piece | Space | Push Tab | PLASTIC
5. Get your automotive wire, and cut about 7 (seven) inches or more of wire, (whatever you are comfortable with working with), and strip about half an inch of insulation off at both ends. This wire will be used to provide power to the relay. Crimp one end with the flat Blade type connector. Warning, I had to shove it in there with some force as the diameter of the wire is larger than the crimp hole. The other end, I choose to just shove in to the bottom of the relay outlet. You want to shove into the underside of this marked in Yellow:
Bottom Side: 
Crimp: 
As you can see, I literally just shoved it in there. If you have smaller diameter wire, you may have to find an alternative solution to hold the wire in there.
Once you are done, Tape everything together to hold it in.
6. Insert the crimped end into your alarm relay outlet. Do not use the top 12v+ outlet, instead, the use the two closest to the fender. I chose to use the one on the right, you can use either one. How you choose to get there is up to you, I simply routed my wires upward, over the other relays, and then into the slot.
Okay! At this point, your fog lights are wired for independent use.
If you don't want to do the alarm wiring, you can assemble everything back together and leave it be.
If you want to do the fog light alarm wiring, continue below.
Gather all your tools, and a drink. I did this all outside, even though I could have went inside to cut wires, crimp things together, etc etc. All pictures are click-able for larger versions.
1. Remove your relay box cover on the passenger side of the car. This should be easy, but incase you are new or don't know which one, the relay box cover I am referring to is here:
There are tabs on the side of the cover that you pull slightly outwards in order to release the latch.2. Move your coolant reservoir to somewhere nearby so you have more room to work with. To remove, gently pull upwards and slightly to the rear of the car. There is a tab/slot that holds the reservoir in place.
I choose to put mine here: 
3. Start removing the relay box, there are two 10mm hex screws to take out. It will help if you remove the relays that are blocking the bolts.
Close ups: 
and 
To remove the relay, insert a flat blade screw driver here:
and pull up: 
4. Remove the relay box mid section. This is done on two sides. First, the engine bay view side, then the fender view side.
On the engine bay view side, there are four tabs that need to be pried backwards gently, so that the relay box midsection can be pulled upwards. This requires patience so you don't break anything.
The view from the fender side has two of the same tabs, as well as a squeeze type tab that requires you to push them inwards towards each other (Shown with the downward pointing arrows.)
Engine Bay Side:
and Fender Side: 
Tip: You may be pushing the wrong tabs on the fender side when you are trying to push the middle tabs together:
Here is a rough diagram: You want to Push the "Push Tab" towards the "WIDE SPACE HERE".
PLASTIC | Push Tab |Space| Plastic Piece | WIDE SPACE HERE | Plastic Piece | Space | Push Tab | PLASTIC
5. Get your automotive wire, and cut about 7 (seven) inches or more of wire, (whatever you are comfortable with working with), and strip about half an inch of insulation off at both ends. This wire will be used to provide power to the relay. Crimp one end with the flat Blade type connector. Warning, I had to shove it in there with some force as the diameter of the wire is larger than the crimp hole. The other end, I choose to just shove in to the bottom of the relay outlet. You want to shove into the underside of this marked in Yellow:
Bottom Side: 
Crimp: 
As you can see, I literally just shoved it in there. If you have smaller diameter wire, you may have to find an alternative solution to hold the wire in there.
Once you are done, Tape everything together to hold it in.
6. Insert the crimped end into your alarm relay outlet. Do not use the top 12v+ outlet, instead, the use the two closest to the fender. I chose to use the one on the right, you can use either one. How you choose to get there is up to you, I simply routed my wires upward, over the other relays, and then into the slot.
Okay! At this point, your fog lights are wired for independent use.
If you don't want to do the alarm wiring, you can assemble everything back together and leave it be.
If you want to do the fog light alarm wiring, continue below.
Last edited by Akiyukio; Jul 1, 2010 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Part 1 Done
Alright, the first part of rewiring is done. Your fogs are now rewired for independent use.
Lets move on to the second part, where you will be wiring for alarm use.
7. On my setup, I've already removed the relay for the high beam flashing. You will need to attach wires to this relay so that it can be used to control the fogs.
Cut 4 (four) lengths of 7 (seven) inch or longer lengths of wire. Strip about half an inch of insulation of each of the ends. Now, if you bought the RadioShack package of connectors, you should have 4 of the blade type connectors, and 4 of the slot type connectors (1 of which you already used). On one of each wire's end, crimp a slot type connector on. Pick any three wires and crimp a blade type connector on the end.
You should now have four wires, three which have both the slot type and blade type connectors, and one wire that has only a slot type connector on the end and free wire on the the other. These are head shrink connectors, so if you want, you can go ahead and heat shrink them to hold the wires better. I didn't do so on mine since I was a lazy bum.
8. Connect all four of the wires to the relay via the slot type connectors. You will need to connect them to certain pins.
Look closely at the relay top, the plastic cover, whatever, and you will notice numbers on them as well as a simple diagram. These pins are also labeled as well with small plastic numbers next to the pins on the underside.
Two wires will go to the two pins that are perpendicular to the four that are parallel to each other. (Pins 1 and 2)
Two other wires will go Pins 6 and 7.
Tip: You might want to label each of the wires so you know which wire is which.
Now tape it together so it doesn't come out: 
9. Place the relay into a empty space somewhere. The second post in this thread shows you where I placed mine. It's the one that is weirdly slanted to the front of the car. Wires from pin 1, 2, and 6 are routed under the relays, the wire from pin 7 is routed over the relays and then down under again. I know this is a weird description, but here are pictures:
This is what I mean by pins 1, 2, and 6 going into the box, while ping 7 is going out of the box.
Red Arrow is the wire going from pin 7 to the underside of the fog relay.
Blue Arrow is the wire that we finished doing earlier. It's the wire that has a constant 12v+ so our fog lights can be turned on whenever.
Green Arrow bunch of wires going to the original relay position.
This is the underside of the fog relay socket, with both wire just jammed in there..
This picture shows you where you want the wires to go: It's the original alarm relay socket.
10.Once you have everything connected, make sure everything works before putting the finishing touches on.
Put everything back together, and make sure you don't pinch the wires when assembling the relay box together.
Enjoy your rewired fogs and your alarm light flashing again!
Lets move on to the second part, where you will be wiring for alarm use.
7. On my setup, I've already removed the relay for the high beam flashing. You will need to attach wires to this relay so that it can be used to control the fogs.
Cut 4 (four) lengths of 7 (seven) inch or longer lengths of wire. Strip about half an inch of insulation of each of the ends. Now, if you bought the RadioShack package of connectors, you should have 4 of the blade type connectors, and 4 of the slot type connectors (1 of which you already used). On one of each wire's end, crimp a slot type connector on. Pick any three wires and crimp a blade type connector on the end.
You should now have four wires, three which have both the slot type and blade type connectors, and one wire that has only a slot type connector on the end and free wire on the the other. These are head shrink connectors, so if you want, you can go ahead and heat shrink them to hold the wires better. I didn't do so on mine since I was a lazy bum.
8. Connect all four of the wires to the relay via the slot type connectors. You will need to connect them to certain pins.
Look closely at the relay top, the plastic cover, whatever, and you will notice numbers on them as well as a simple diagram. These pins are also labeled as well with small plastic numbers next to the pins on the underside.
Two wires will go to the two pins that are perpendicular to the four that are parallel to each other. (Pins 1 and 2)
Two other wires will go Pins 6 and 7.
Tip: You might want to label each of the wires so you know which wire is which.
Now tape it together so it doesn't come out: 
9. Place the relay into a empty space somewhere. The second post in this thread shows you where I placed mine. It's the one that is weirdly slanted to the front of the car. Wires from pin 1, 2, and 6 are routed under the relays, the wire from pin 7 is routed over the relays and then down under again. I know this is a weird description, but here are pictures:
This is what I mean by pins 1, 2, and 6 going into the box, while ping 7 is going out of the box.
Red Arrow is the wire going from pin 7 to the underside of the fog relay.
Blue Arrow is the wire that we finished doing earlier. It's the wire that has a constant 12v+ so our fog lights can be turned on whenever.
Green Arrow bunch of wires going to the original relay position.
This is the underside of the fog relay socket, with both wire just jammed in there..
This picture shows you where you want the wires to go: It's the original alarm relay socket.
10.Once you have everything connected, make sure everything works before putting the finishing touches on.
Put everything back together, and make sure you don't pinch the wires when assembling the relay box together.
Enjoy your rewired fogs and your alarm light flashing again!
Last edited by Akiyukio; Jul 1, 2010 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Part 2 Done
Dude, this is ONE FKING AMAZING write up, THIS SHOULD BE STICKIED!! I am really impressed on how you actually have "PICTURES" of the location and parts. Very well done and very much impressive. I give you MAD props!! And have i mentioned? This SHOULD be Stickied.
Although i don't have the car anymore, i really like this. in fact, MORE HOW TO's SHOULD BE LIKE THIS. sorry for caps, but IMHO, people who can't visualize the pictures on a standard text how to could use something like this. But hey, thats just me. Anyone?
Although i don't have the car anymore, i really like this. in fact, MORE HOW TO's SHOULD BE LIKE THIS. sorry for caps, but IMHO, people who can't visualize the pictures on a standard text how to could use something like this. But hey, thats just me. Anyone?
Sometimes when people first get HID, they tend to show boat infront of their friends turning their HID off/on rapidly. Is this good some say? The answer is no. If you've ever seen HID turned off and on you would of noticed a 4100k turns redish-orange for a second. This is the bulbs way of saying OUCH! What happens is the bulbs have already created Xenon gas to for the light but hasn't cooled back into salts and then when the bulbs are turned back on, the ballast are sending out a start-up of 23k volts which IS NOT a good thing. The bulbs already had enough Xenon in them to supply light and didn't need the 23k shot to them. This kills bulb lifespan.
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