How to scrap a 4th gen frame?
How to scrap a 4th gen frame?
Time is almost at hand to get rid of my 95. Not much life left in the tranny. My plan is to pick up a 5th gen. Once I have that I plan on stripping off as many parts as I have room to store then scrapping what's left. Coincidentally I met someone last night, got to talking to them and explained my plan. They told me they had a cousin who would want to buy the motor for their 89. Great timing because that was definitely the one thing I was gonna have to leave in the car.
So my question is, if I strip everything off from motor on down to wheels, what do you do with the frame? I always figured junk yards turn around and sell them to metal scrappers when they are picked clean but don't know how the process works or if it is publicly accessible to where I could call them and say I have a frame I want to scrap.
So my question is, if I strip everything off from motor on down to wheels, what do you do with the frame? I always figured junk yards turn around and sell them to metal scrappers when they are picked clean but don't know how the process works or if it is publicly accessible to where I could call them and say I have a frame I want to scrap.
Scrap yards will pay you for the metal. Keep all the iron and steel you can, like rotors, wheels, or even junk metal you have at home.. Load that baby up and take it in as one heap. Just loose the tires and fluids. There isnt a whole lot in steel and iron but hey it could be worth it.
Alternately you can call some one who will pick it up. Lots of scrappers will do it for free but some will offer you cash.
Alternately you can call some one who will pick it up. Lots of scrappers will do it for free but some will offer you cash.
Very cool thanks for the info. You don't happen to know if the wheels from a 4th gen fit on the 5th do you? If so I will probably end up keeping them and getting snow tires mounted for my winter activities.
That depends on which 4th gen rims. if they are the 16" SE or similar they should be ok.
why scrap it at all when you can get a transmission off craigslist for like $200? Just seems a waste of a good car when you could get some more years out of it. Unless it's just completely worn out all over, of course.
It's more than just the tranny. Bearings on compressor are shot (no A/C in Vegas = torture). Catalytic converter has rusted away around where the 02 sensor goes so I had to use some quick steel to hold that in place. Both front quarter panels have rust damage. Also rust damage around the right rear wheel well. ABS light is on though I have not gotten around to diagnosing that. CES light recently came back on and at this point I can't even be bothered to pull the code. Odometer is broken.
I think you get the point though. The thing is worth more in the parts than it would cost to fix it. It served it's purpose, I knew when I bought it what I was getting, I rode it hard, drove it from Rochester to Las Vegas then proceeded to put a crap ton of miles on it since I've been here. It survived 2 seasons of snowboarding trips up and down the mountains. I probably put about 80K on it from 3/08 until now, paid 2500 so I feel like I got well over my moneys worth.
I think you get the point though. The thing is worth more in the parts than it would cost to fix it. It served it's purpose, I knew when I bought it what I was getting, I rode it hard, drove it from Rochester to Las Vegas then proceeded to put a crap ton of miles on it since I've been here. It survived 2 seasons of snowboarding trips up and down the mountains. I probably put about 80K on it from 3/08 until now, paid 2500 so I feel like I got well over my moneys worth.
Yup.. sell off any of the parts you can. wheels, tires, brakes, transmission, engine, lights, windows, etc. they're worth MUCH more as pieces than they are as scrap at $0.02/lb
after you can't sell any more stuff, strip the car as far as you can go- yank the wiring out and anything made of aluminum (AC condenser & piping, AC compressor, wheels, etc) as aluminum and copper are worth much more than steel.
when you take the car in, be sure to give that to them separately. aluminum is bought in different types- clean aluminum & breakage. AC compressor, engine block, transmission w/ other steel parts in it are sold as breakage. a bare tranny case or AC coil that are straight aluminum are sold as clean aluminum and worth about 3x as much.
don't know how they buy copper, but it's still based on weight. the cleaner you can get it (fewer connectors and split loom tubing), the more you'll get per pound. toss the plastic in the bin or hide it under the carpet of the car.
remove all the nuts and bolts you can and toss them in a bucket. My bucket of leftover bolts has saved my butt a bazillion times when working on other cars.
remove all the fluids and drain the gas tank (siphon it out or just drive it till the tank is empty and then remove the fuel pump and leave the tank open tot he air to evaporate)..
yank the interior out and toss it in the trash- they usually won't take a car with interior since it adds a lot of weight and is worth nothing to a steel yard... If they'll take it, then hose that motha down with water just before you take it in so its as heavy as possible.
now borrow a truck & flatbed (don't rent one- you won't even break even on the car!) and use a come-a-long to drag it onto the trailer. haul it to the scrap yard and get paid. they'll usually have a forklift or crane there to help you safely lift it off the trailer..
Be sure to take the car title with you- NOBODY will take the car with an intact chassis without a title. If you don't have the title, then you'll need to cut it into pieces in order for most yards to take it.
after you can't sell any more stuff, strip the car as far as you can go- yank the wiring out and anything made of aluminum (AC condenser & piping, AC compressor, wheels, etc) as aluminum and copper are worth much more than steel.
when you take the car in, be sure to give that to them separately. aluminum is bought in different types- clean aluminum & breakage. AC compressor, engine block, transmission w/ other steel parts in it are sold as breakage. a bare tranny case or AC coil that are straight aluminum are sold as clean aluminum and worth about 3x as much.
don't know how they buy copper, but it's still based on weight. the cleaner you can get it (fewer connectors and split loom tubing), the more you'll get per pound. toss the plastic in the bin or hide it under the carpet of the car.
remove all the nuts and bolts you can and toss them in a bucket. My bucket of leftover bolts has saved my butt a bazillion times when working on other cars.
remove all the fluids and drain the gas tank (siphon it out or just drive it till the tank is empty and then remove the fuel pump and leave the tank open tot he air to evaporate)..
yank the interior out and toss it in the trash- they usually won't take a car with interior since it adds a lot of weight and is worth nothing to a steel yard... If they'll take it, then hose that motha down with water just before you take it in so its as heavy as possible.

now borrow a truck & flatbed (don't rent one- you won't even break even on the car!) and use a come-a-long to drag it onto the trailer. haul it to the scrap yard and get paid. they'll usually have a forklift or crane there to help you safely lift it off the trailer..
Be sure to take the car title with you- NOBODY will take the car with an intact chassis without a title. If you don't have the title, then you'll need to cut it into pieces in order for most yards to take it.
Last edited by Matt93SE; Jul 5, 2010 at 02:34 PM.
It's more than just the tranny. Bearings on compressor are shot (no A/C in Vegas = torture). Catalytic converter has rusted away around where the 02 sensor goes so I had to use some quick steel to hold that in place. Both front quarter panels have rust damage. Also rust damage around the right rear wheel well. ABS light is on though I have not gotten around to diagnosing that. CES light recently came back on and at this point I can't even be bothered to pull the code. Odometer is broken.
I think you get the point though. The thing is worth more in the parts than it would cost to fix it. It served it's purpose, I knew when I bought it what I was getting, I rode it hard, drove it from Rochester to Las Vegas then proceeded to put a crap ton of miles on it since I've been here. It survived 2 seasons of snowboarding trips up and down the mountains. I probably put about 80K on it from 3/08 until now, paid 2500 so I feel like I got well over my moneys worth.
I think you get the point though. The thing is worth more in the parts than it would cost to fix it. It served it's purpose, I knew when I bought it what I was getting, I rode it hard, drove it from Rochester to Las Vegas then proceeded to put a crap ton of miles on it since I've been here. It survived 2 seasons of snowboarding trips up and down the mountains. I probably put about 80K on it from 3/08 until now, paid 2500 so I feel like I got well over my moneys worth.
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