I've got everything loose except the hard line from the mc to the distribution box. That one's a pain because the distribution box nut is underneath the brake booster and the nut on the master cylinder is so soft that I am rounding it rather than turning it. I am heading out to find a 10mm flare nut wrench, but if I can't, I'm going to have to work something out quick because I need to drive tomorrow. Any advice for me?

Also, how hard is installing a clutch master cylinder? If this doesn't work out I may just go straight to that.

TIA..

 

If your replacing the line anyway, cut the line with large dykes and use a socket, other wise use a line wrench. Open end wrenches rarely work, and the cheaper thay are the more they deflect and slip.

 

I had same issue on clutch and brake lines. I used a small vice grips and cranked down REALLY hard on it to snap it closed. Crude, but worked on all 3.

 

Got it off with a flare nut wrench. Sometimes I love Harbor Freight - where Sears wants $11 for one two-ended wrench, HF had five two-ended wrenches for....$11. Doubt I'll ever use most of them, but for the same price it can't hurt. As for the hard lines, I actually used a hacksaw to just cut them after wrestling with them for half an hour or so. And the banjo connector wasn't coming off the slave cyl, so I used a C-clamp to hold it to the battery tray and then twisted that **** off with a socket.

NEXT QUESTION: How do I reinstall the slave cylinder? I have to make the through holes on the cyl and the threaded holes on the trans line up. No idea how I will do that because at full compression of the slave it is just barely not engaged. Any tips?

 

Anyone? I really need help quickly because the sun is going down and I need to drive tomorrow. I have spent the last hour wrestling in the engine bay and I don't think that'll solve my problem. What am I doing wrong? I need to line up the holes on the transmission with the holes on the slave cylinder, but it won't fit - it's as though the plunger will not go in far enough. Please offer whatever help you can...

UPDATE: The little pit in the plunger in Advance Auto's slave cylinder rebuild kit is not deep enough to allow for reinstallation. I put the old plunger back into the cylinder and all is well. It was just a precaution to rebuild it, but I am disappointed and will certainly be faxing an angry letter to the editor about this one.

For all I didn't believe they would make any difference, the GD stainless line really does make the clutch pedal feel stiffer than did the old rat's nest. Perhaps it's because I have the line directly on the master cyl to the slave instead of going through the distribution box or the hard line. Just waiting for the rain to let up a bit before I reinstall the intake and take it for a drive.

 

Was the piston pushed all the way into the cylinder? Seems very odd that it wouldn't fit. Generally you do have to use some force when remounting a slave.

 

Yes. I made sure the cylinder was clear of obstructions and lubed it with some brake fluid. There wasn't any reason it shouldn't have fit, but with all my (admittedly meager) strength I could not line up the holes.. When I compared the two plungers side-by-side, the factory one (or whatever was in there before) had a distinctly deeper pit for the pushin' rod (apparently called the "****") than did the plunger from the rebuild kit. Again, since I'm pretty sure it was the line leaking, I had only wanted to rebuild the slave because I was already in there, but I spent an hour in the rain trying to force something that didn't belong. I will take it back to Advance and complain, I guess, but I don't want to take the whole thing apart again and I installed the boot from the kit already so I think my $10 is gone.

 

IF the glove dont fit, you must acquit!!!

If the piston doesn't fit take that 'ish back, they could have ordered the wrong one!

And have you already removed your factory line? I'm a bit confused here... I removed mine with time and patience and it's still usable!!

So is the piston not fitting into the slave the only problem? And also were you sure your slave was the problem? The Advane auto rebuilt kit has a pretty cheap feeling piston compared to my stock one, but the O-ring on the stock piston was worn to hell so I had to replace it with that cheap piece of crap.

 

Replaced the lines, I'm done. I drove the car to work today (where I am productively posting on Maxima.org), but it'll take time to tell if I've solved the leak; it went two or three week between bleeds before. I do like the stainless line; it feels a bit stiffer (or maybe that's my imagination) and the engine bay is much much cleaner

The Advance kit does have a cheap feeling piston - compared to what's in my slave cyl right now, it's aluminum replacing copper and one seal ring replacing two - but I think that's just a function of its being aluminum, and I wouldn't have worried about it wearing out or breaking. And no, I don't think my slave was the problem, but I wanted to rebuild it because I had it out and the kit was $10. Since the piston didn't let me reinstall the slave I just left it out (replaced the boot) and put everything back together.