need info before doing the job. do you put everything in place like inserting the axle into the bearing and align everything before tightening the 3 bolts? or it doesn't matter. thanks for the help.

 

if your talking about the axle mount that mounts to the motor, if the bracket is still on the motor then just slide the axle in then tighten it but it wont matter how you do it but it is easy to just mount the bracket to the motor first then slide the axle in

 

Very big negative ghost rider! It is NOT easy to bolt it to the block and slide it through, ever try it?

Your best bet is to slide the axle into the trans first, with the bracket in place on the axle. Only way you can align the 3 - 14mm bolts. Getting that carrier bearing past the strut tower / ps pump is fun. Doable, but you gotta twist and play with the carrier bearing bracket to slip it past. Then it's just a matter of an extension (or three) and a 14mm socket. Reach in behind the strut tower with the ratchet, easy reach.

 

Mine was VERY easy. I left the bracket on the engine, used a Gear wrench to remove the three bearing retainer bolts, slid right out and right back in. be careful to line the holes back up as you do it. You could use a long bolt with the head cut off as a guide tho.

 

thanks all for tips. i will tackle 2 axles over the weekend. if i have time sway bar link and outer tie rod.

have you folks change all the brushing on the sway bar?

 

mine was a big pain n the ***!

 

why are you changing the sway bar link? Is it rusted out? The outer tie rod is pretty easy, make sure you mark the rod of where the bolt is so you can get the tie rod to a semi position. Otherwise, you'll be in the same position as me where the tires are shredding from the drive home from the shop. getting alignment is in dire need tomorrow.

btw, i took the bracket off the frame and then i removed the bracket from the axle once it was removed. there is no way i would of been able to remove the axle while the bracket was on the car.

 

+1

I've removed the passenger side axle from two different 4th gens and I had to remove the bracket from the motor both times. Once you get it off and separated, use a scotch bright pad to remove the rust build up and cover the mating surfaces with anti-seize to prevent it from rusting together again.

 

thanks for the info ImmaSquashYou. i havn't looked into that area. i didn't know i can remove the bracket off the frame i thought it is permanently attached.

the original bushing on the sway bar link is torn and the link looks bad. since i need to change the bushing i thought i may as well change the whole thing. it looks like i won't have time for the tie rod. thanks for the tips.

ajm8127, thanks for the info. now i have to look into how to remove the bracket off the frame. need to check on many bolts there are.

 

joew, if i were you, i would still remove the 3 bolts first, see if you got lucky. i wouldn't yank for more than 4-5 minutes. The bolts are right next to the mount. If i remember correctly, its two bolts? its been a while. they're pretty easy to get to if you got to the other 3 bolts.

do you mean your stablizer bar (sway bar)? or the end links (ones that connect the sway bar to the knuckle)? Or the bushings on stablizer bar? I can see the replacing the end links, but shouldn't really need to replace the sway bar. But it is a pretty easy job if you're just doing the connecting rod. outer tie rod is easy too, just make sure you done over torque and def get an alignment.

Also, are you using air tools? i'm not sure if you can get the 36mm axle nut off without air tools. I did it once...and i will never do it again without air tools.

 

I thought there were three bolts. And the bracket is connected to the engine block, not the frame. I never had any problem removing those bolts.

As for the axle nut, at the very least try to find a 36mm impact socket. I've split a non-impact socket before using a breaker bar and a piece of black pipe to increase the torque. I know some auto parts stores will loan tools, so you might want to check the ones local to you.

 

Just a few notes ontop of what everyone else said... After removing the 3 14mm bolts, have a pan ready to catch your tranny fluid, use a small prybar against the transmission (not much pressure) and pop it out of the socket. Another note (I found out the hard way) when installing the new ones you will likely need to slightly tap the end with a large hammer. If you do this PUT THE LARGE NUT ON FIRST or you WILL strip the threads. Just turn it enough to make one large flat surface to tap...

GOOD LUCK!

 

good quality info folks. thanks all.

 

This is a definite NO!!! for reinstalling the new one. you DO NOT hammer it in...are you nuts? You will damage your tranny seal and will be more trouble. You need to go under your car and carefully guide it into the tranny. Once its in the tranny, you can push it some of the way in and then use the 3 bolts and tighten it up to send it in the rest of the way...hammering is a definite NO!!!!!

 

I could be wrong, but I think the hammering he was talking about was after the shaft has already been guided into the differential. The axle may need some "motivation" for the small snap ring to compress and be pushed through the differential gear. Personally, I've used the play in the inner CV joint as a make shift slide hammer to knock the clip into the diff. However, IIRC only the driver's side has such a clip.

 

There is no snap ring on passesnger side.

 

i just did my pass. side axle. i was a ***** if you have never worked on axles before. anyway, the "axle ring?" from the picture on the new axle came loose. is there a concern here? i ended up pushing it toward to the rubber seal "touching the motor end? what do you folks think?

http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg

 

I don't recall seeing that ring on my axle. Do you have ABS on your max??

 

no, it's not ABS.

 

You need to make sure that ring is securely seated on the shaft. It rides along the axle seal, if it doesn't seal correctly it will leak or tear the seal and start to leak. Ask how I know. Needless to say, I've R&R'ed the passenger axle a few times.

A tip: It's hard to tighten the three bracket bolts to the engine properly, so I put a lock washer on each to help them stay tight. Works great. Don't use loctite or you will be sorry.

 

i guess i need to crazy glue the ring on to the shaft?

 

It is a shield, just make sure it doesn't make direct contact with the seal.

 

how did this new ring fall off?? where did you buy the axle? can you go get another one?

 

thanks all, both axles are in. i almost gave up with the left axle but finally pushed in. regarding the ring on the right side, there is a gap between the ring and the seal now. i left it that way because the ring is not perfectly round and don't want to damage the seal since it is riding on the shaft. it looks like it suppose to cover the seal part that extended outward just like the left side. drop me a line or give me a call if anyone reading this thread and needs help while the installation is still fresh in memory. please don't contact me a few year later.