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Car wont stay on!!!!!

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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Car wont stay on!!!!!

Early in the morning I start my car and without revving it for about a minute it will shut off. Also, when im driving it and go to a complete stop either a light or stop sign my car will shut off. I checked on my coil packs and they are all ok. Tomorrow before I fill up my tank I figure I will put some fuel injector cleaner to see if that would work. If anyone had this type of problem please help me out. Any tip will be great thanks.
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by El_BoriMax
Early in the morning I start my car and without revving it for about a minute it will shut off. Also, when im driving it and go to a complete stop either a light or stop sign my car will shut off. I checked on my coil packs and they are all ok. Tomorrow before I fill up my tank I figure I will put some fuel injector cleaner to see if that would work. If anyone had this type of problem please help me out. Any tip will be great thanks.

believe it or not i once worked on a car with EXACT SAME ISSUE, AND I MEAN THE SAME EXACT THINGS YOU HAVE WRITTEN ON IT, after chagnging coils plugs, and iacv the problem that was come to be was the PCV valve, the dammm thing was blocked literally blocked with tons of black nonsense i changed it just cuz i though it might help, and it was the problem a $5 part that is not monitored. Try it cuz it really doesnt hurt to try
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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Is it located somewhere under the tb? RIght? I never really checked around there
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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http://img13.imagevenue.com/img.php?...c_pcv_pipe.jpg

Last edited by jholley; Jul 29, 2010 at 06:32 PM.
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:42 PM
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so if its open i should just plug it up?
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by maxfever1987
believe it or not i once worked on a car with EXACT SAME ISSUE, AND I MEAN THE SAME EXACT THINGS YOU HAVE WRITTEN ON IT, after chagnging coils plugs, and iacv the problem that was come to be was the PCV valve, the dammm thing was blocked literally blocked with tons of black nonsense i changed it just cuz i though it might help, and it was the problem a $5 part that is not monitored. Try it cuz it really doesnt hurt to try

yes i agree samething happen to me as well change it and it helped solve the problem
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:18 AM
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Yep, definately try PCV, TB and EGR. Clean em good. If that don't help, look to your MAF.
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Im def gonna do that today. I gotta drop off my car at a shop to do my alignment since i was done replacing control arm, inner and outer tie rod and sway link. Once my car is done at the shop im gonna Clean the tb even if its not dirty and egr. Also look at the pcv. Ill let ya'll know if it worked out.
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:18 AM
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Check IACV too. Ohm test it per FSM spec
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Well I cleaned the tb today real good nice and shiny. I also plugged the pcv and everything is fine now. My car is back to normal. Now when i start it i dont have to rev it to stay on and it wont shut off while im driving.

I know this has nothing to do with my engine now but I did replace both control arms, both sway link, both inner and outer rods, and i also replaced the cv joints while i was at it. I got the alignment today and they told me to get some cambers to be able to avoid the caster i have. My driver side wheel is more towards the door instead of being centered at the wheel well. My car is a rebuild but he said i can get cambers to fix that. I was thinking of purchasing the pro alignment kit from stillen.com since they were only for 26 bucks. Is it worth it to be able to center the wheel in the wheel well? Im trying to do as much as i can with the car atleast every two weeks.
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Same this happened to my car last week. Just cleaned throttle body and raised idle alittle bit and now all better.
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Does anyone else get a brick load of **** pop-ups when they click this link?
Old Aug 1, 2010 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SFMax415
Same this happened to my car last week. Just cleaned throttle body and raised idle alittle bit and now all better.
How do you raise the idle?... I hope it's not a dumb question, try and forgive me if it is, I'm a noob here
Old Aug 1, 2010 | 09:29 PM
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My car has the same problem too, unless its warm.. when the car is warm it runs and idles fine, but when its cold it will shut off and then will not crank for a long time ( i have to turn the key for 5-10 seconds) and when it does start up i have to hold the revs to like 3000 rpms, i have to clue what the problem could be. HELP please.
Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by najee1062
How do you raise the idle?... I hope it's not a dumb question, try and forgive me if it is, I'm a noob here
Very Very easy. There is a philips screw that you turn either counter clock wise or clockwise when the car is on allowing more air flow or less to raise the idle. it's near the throttle body behind it but the screw is on top facing up. It looks different than a regular screw. If you cant find it by the time i get to work on tuesday ill post a pic of location with all data. I would do it tommorow but hood struts are blown =( and that hood is heavy! but before i adjusted that and cleaned the throttle body whenever i pushed in the clutch coming to a stop after driving the rpms would drop to about 300-400 and then come back up to 600 and idle at 6. after i did the service (both of them) it now goes to 1000-900 and drops to 750 for idle. much better!
Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:45 AM
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oh and also the book says after you adjust it to check to see exactly where it is rev the car up to 3k-3.5k 3 times and let it idle cause it might change. But i didnt see a difference
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