96 max having some problems with a clyinder 6 misfire, Cel flashes while driving.
All the plugs are good and i'm pretty sure the coil pack is good.
Anyone with any suggestions?

 

your fuel injector. you can replace this yourself, if you are a strong dude. there is a write up in the stickies.

i did this for my 95. easiest thing to do is to unplug the connector from the injector, test with a voltimiter, and it should not get a reading.

then its basically as simple as unscrewing the metal bracket that holds the injector in place, and yanking it out. those injectors are in there SOLID, its going to take elbow grease and some knowledge of physics to get it outta there.

an injector will prolly run you 80-100. do not buy remanufactured. i bought one and it failed instantly.

 

One cylinder misfiring does not cause the CEL to flash. You must have multiple random misfires for that to happen. Anyways, you cannot just assume those things are good. You have to visually check the plug, read the voltage from the coilpack, and then check the fuel injector.

 

FALSE. the cel WILL flash if there is only one cylinder misfiring. also, it makes no sense to check the coilpack first, considering it is a tougher job than checking the injector, which is as simple as removing a plastic clip.

with your car parked and in ACC mode with engine off, unclip the injector that you believe to be the culprit, as well as an injector to the right or left. check with a voltimiter. (if you dunno how to do this, read the stickies. its as easy as pressing two thin metal rods to the male component of the injector itself. compare the two readings you get. the misfiring injector will not product any voltage if its dead. if the two injectors get the same reading, then it is not the injector. then you move onto coil packs.

 

clean maf and tb. Check coil, plug, and injector for cylinder 6

 

Thank you all for your replies

 

i have a 2001 se max that i have replaced coils,maf,o2 sensors spark plugs, cat converter,radator, and several other parts but the SEL stays on and when i excelerate it flashes at me and it is also skipping and drinking gas like crazy...its been to several local shops as well as nissan and no one seems to know wat to tell me to fix on this dang car...it keep throwing tha code for cylinder 5 misfire, nissan even switched some coils and plug around to test to see if it was bad coils,and plug...but once again they were working fine....please someone have some suggestions im at my witz end with my car

 

Swap coil pack with a good working one and see if problem moves to new location. When did you last check the plugs? Pull plugs, look for wet ones.

 

exactly dont just buy an injector like someone said above.. make sure its not he coil first..

and easy test is to ohm out the injector and the one next to it to compare readings.. 12 ohm is good..

next swap the coil from the one next to it, clear the code and see if it jumpers to the next cylinder..

 

+1 i had my cel come on as my car misfired..the code said cyl 1 misfire. my coil was bad.

 

what about just listening for the injector ticking? a stuck or failed injector does not tick. use a long screwdriver with the handle to your ear and the tip on the injector body you should clearly hear it ticking.

 

so wet ones are good or bad in this instance?

 

you tell me how can a good coil be wet?

the spark plug tubes leak will cause wet coil boots..

 

i thought you were referring to the plugs themselves being wet.. mine smelled like gas when i pulled them other day Cyl 3 had a little moisture of oil on the boot itself .. not sure what that means just yet but im betting its not good

 

all your plugs were wet and smelled like gas, or just cyl 6? plugs wet with fuel indicate either no spark (fuel not combusted, bad coil) or possibly leaky injector dripping too much fuel into chamber but that would usually show up as carbon coating on the plug not raw fuel. you could potentially have both a bad injector and a bad coil.

per previous recommendations - swap coils around and check your injectors by both listening for injector tick and measure volts and ohms. report back.

cyl 3 oil is leaky valve cover seal as f550 said. no big deal to you right now. fix the misfire first.

 

i cant listen to the motor run since i cant get it to start.. i tried testing each coil with the tip of a screw driver and having a buddy crank the engine and not one of the coils fired at all .. im pretty sure the ecu is bad.. would it still self-diagnose if its bad or will it keep the coils from firing?

 

ha! you're not the OP. i didn't catch that.

assume you've checked the ckps sensors?

edit: just saw your other post. sorry but I can't help you.

 

yeah sorry JDM_maxima i didnt mean to thread jack i have a line on 3 coils for cheap right now so maybe that will help .. if not then ill have 3 extra coils lol

 

Since u took it to Nissan, I will assume they have completed a compression test and determined mechanically the car is fine. Throw some chevron techron in that bish!! CHeck cylinder 5 injector.

Also, u have a 2001, u are in the wrong forum. Head to 5th gen forum

 

Unlikely all coils went bad at the same time. More likely crank position sensor, which ECU uses to know when to fire spark.

 

yeah i checked the multimeter and every one of the coils are staying right about 1.78-1.8 ohms so im guessing that they are all good .. i took off and cleaned the sensor thats on the drivers side on the bottom side of the bell housing and it was disgustingly dirty so i cleaned it.. and i cleaned the sensor on the passenger side right i think its the cps but i have been told there are 2 cps sensors and i dont know where the other one is.. any help is appreciated

 

it is on the oilpan facing the crankshaft pulley.

 

ok thanks ill go check that one now and update

 

if you exhaust all other possiblities it could be timing related possibly

 

did you ohm out the injectors yet?

 

what range should the injectors be at?

 

i checked out the ohm's of my fuel injector's with a multimeter. it turns out that i'm getting a reading of 0 from my clylinder 6 injector. im getting readings from clylinders 1,3. so that must be the culprit of my problem

 

sound like you could have a similar problem to me. make sure you check or have yout fuel injetors checked. it seems very strange that you have had all those things changed and still the same problem. make sure you have your CEL read before your start swapping sensors.

 

may sound like im being a smartass but thats not my intention.. you check cyl-1 with the 8 pin harness by the passenger side of the engine, correct?
looks like this
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
1 and 2 are for cyl-1, 1 and 6 are for cyl-3, and 1 and 5 are for cyl-5 just making sure

 

I came across this post and thought i would add my problem in here to see if anyone can help me out.. my service light has been flashing off and on every once in a while for about 3-4 months now.. finally got around to changing my spark plugs and coilpacks, the car has alot more power now.. but NOW my mechanic said that one of my fuel injectors are bad and the service engine light now flashes and stays on.. so i have to now change one of them either the 4,5,6th cylinder fuel injector.. does anyone know how much they would be? and when i drive below 2- 2 1/2 rpms the car feels shakey and kind of studders a little but after 3 rpms the car is fine so that indicates to me that a fuel injector is bad.. " does that sound right to anyone let me know thanks"

 

it doesnt sound like a bad injector to me if it was a bad injector it would shudder all the time and it wouldnt smooth out at all ..as a first step clean your TB and MAF then check your CPS and CKPS but first go here and use those steps to find out exactly what code you are getting http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html then go here http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html once you have all the codes wrote down or remembered or whatever and find out what they mean so you can start fixing things as you go bc whether they are your problem or not.. if they pop a CEL they should be fixed. i would run a ohm check on each coil AND each injector if you dont know how to do that then say so and i can or anyone else can give instructions on how to do that bc any thing that you CAN fix.. you SHOULD and i dont mean send to a mechanic if you have the knowledge on how to do it then you should do it personally bc i have learned with every car i have ever had the more you put into it personally the more it means to you..

 

first you need to check the check engine light.. second you need to do what i suggested to the OP..

measure the injectors with a ohm meter.. see what you get..

 

I was talking about the fuel injectors for cylinders 2,4,6.
Cylinder 6 had a ohm reading of 0, cylinders 2,4 had readings of 11.5 - 12 ohms.

 

I changed the fuel injector for #6 cylinder, the max is running perfectly fine now.
Shot out to my man "Teaner" for sending me that fuel injector quick, fast and in a hurry!

 

glad to hear that your back on the road.. im going to be working on my max as soon as it cools down some tonight putting a new set of terminals and a brand new 4 gauge ground from battery to tranny housing so maybe ill get lucky.. btw you can check compression with a tool that you get at AA it costs like 27 bucks for the gauge and it just screws into where your spark plug goes and you have someone try to crank the car or start it(if it runs) and it tells you the compression for that cyl.

 

Hi All,

I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima (automatic). It was giving me hard time for starting so I changed plugs and tested it. It started almost fine with a little bit roughness. Then few mins later I thought I will clean my fuel injectors as well (front three) so pulled them out. They were stucked there with vaccume probably then I put them back. Now the engine seized up. I tried few times there were very very vigorus zark. Now it is not doing anything at all. There are two codes one for multiple cylinder misfire and the other one for ignition short-circuit. I think when I pulled fuel injectors out. Gasp of fuel snicked in due to high vaccume. Now the combustion chamber/ cylinder is filled with fuel which needs to be cleared. I am thinking to put a tubing in and pulled any excess fuel out with syringe. Can you guys give me idea what kind of valve is there between the fuel rail and the cylinder/ combustion chamber in the enrty point of the fuel injector. Is it a push in type valve or a electric valve ??? If it is electric how I can open it to push the tubing in to the chamber ??? Any idea how to fix this problem would be really appreciated.

Thanks