This **** sucking code came on today, pissing me off so much. My car doesn't turn on when in gear, only with the clutch fully depressed,.same in neutral . and my reverse lights work why is this ****ing code turning my engine light on!?

 

Check the wiring from the plug to the connector. Check the connections too. Mine has been on for some time and my reverse lights went from working occasionally to not working at all.

Annoying code it is though...

 

wait wat?

was this car originally a 5spd? Because the clutch has to be fully depressed to start the car. if it wasnt before ur clutch switch was bad or shorted out

 

I'm confused by this too. I have a 5 speed and it requires the clutch to be fully in to start. Otherwise the car would take off when you started it.

 

The clutch interlock and the park/neutral safety switch are completely different.

The clutch interlock swtich is normally open (does not conduct) and is inline with the interlock relay. When you push down on the clutch, the switch conducts, and closes the inhibitor relay, connecting the "start" position of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. This operation is normal. You should not be able to start the car unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

The park/neutral safety switch is connected to pin 22 of the ECU and detects when the car is in neutral or park. It is wired to the automatic control unit in an auto or to the reverse/neutral switch in a 5 speed.

I'm seeing conflicting information for the P number for the error though. In some places it's P1706 and in others (the FSM) it's P0705. Both locations call out a 10-03 MIL flash sequence though.

 

I have a P1706 code and I am 99% sure its the park/neutral switch. It came on shortly after swapping my clutch and I am pretty sure either the sensor is damaged or the wiring has a short/lost a connection.

Crappy thing about replacing the sensor is that your transmission will drain all the fluid when you remove it. So if your gear oil is new(er), you might want to consider putting a clean catch container under the drain plug, drain the trans., unbolt the sensor (IIRC its 1 10mm bolt) and unclip the connector. Replace in reverse order. Last time I checked the sensor was around $30 from Nissan.

 

alright so typically even if nothing is wrong it may need replacing to ditch the light? thanks. haha

 

yea, it freakin sucks!! :O my SES light is one too but theres no difference from driving. The car still runs good and everything, back lights just done work when im in neutral.