Radiator replacement...easy DIY? Aftermarket suggestions?
Radiator replacement...easy DIY? Aftermarket suggestions?
So the mechanic says my radiator has a small leak in it and needs to be replaced. I heard replacing your radiator is relatively easy, but thought I'd check on the forum to see what you guys think. I'm planning on making a long road trip soon, so even though it's a 'small leak' it's probably best to take care of this before I hit the road.
The thing is, I wanted to use an OEM replacement, but found out that buying an OEM radiator (~385) is going to cost more than having my mechanic, who I trust, do the replacement (aftermarket radiator ~176, cap ~12, antifreeze ~40, labor ~135). Do you guys know of any good aftermarket radiators for Maximas that'll save me a little money? I might ask my mechanic who they buy from, although I'm not sure if they'll disclose that information or not.
The other thing I thought of is seeing if the leak is patchable. I'd have to check again with the mechanic to get more info on where the leak is, and inspect it myself, but has anyone patched a radiator leak? Think it's worth pursuing that route?
The thing is, I wanted to use an OEM replacement, but found out that buying an OEM radiator (~385) is going to cost more than having my mechanic, who I trust, do the replacement (aftermarket radiator ~176, cap ~12, antifreeze ~40, labor ~135). Do you guys know of any good aftermarket radiators for Maximas that'll save me a little money? I might ask my mechanic who they buy from, although I'm not sure if they'll disclose that information or not.
The other thing I thought of is seeing if the leak is patchable. I'd have to check again with the mechanic to get more info on where the leak is, and inspect it myself, but has anyone patched a radiator leak? Think it's worth pursuing that route?
Yes. Easy DIY. You'll save a bit of money, but it will take a few hours if you've not done it before.
Disconnect and remove the cooling fan assembly by unscrewing probably 4 screws or so; pull that out vertically. The rad is held by two brackets on top screwed into the front frame. Remove the bolts on those brackets, and all that is holding the rad at that point are the hoses. Do a coolant flush while you're at it with some green Nissan Coolant (this is important) and get a few gallons of distilled water from the supermarket to mix the 50/50 collant/distilled water (it's a $1.25 per gallon, 99% of supermarkets have it).
As far as which radiator and where to buy it, Hit the search link on the blue ribbon above, click advanced, on the left side search string 'radiator,' below it choose 'search in title only' on the right side choose '4th gen maxima,' and press Search.
Don't ask the mechanic where he get's his parts; it's in poor taste. He get's it from the same place you'll get it, should you choose to diy, but he gets a price break for volume. But yeah, it's an easy job and all you need to know is in the forum. The hardest part is managing the fluids. You have tranny fluid in the radiator, and you have coolant. Once you disconnect the hoses you need to catch the coolant and a bit of tranny fluid, then decide whether you put it back in or replace it with new fluids.
You may also opt to replace some tranny fluid while you're at it.
I don't think patching will work. The metal is heating up and cooling, so it expands and contracts. I wouldn't patch it. You can drive with the leak, but you need to keep a keen eye on it so it doesn't get out of hand. But replacing the rad is the way to go.
Disconnect and remove the cooling fan assembly by unscrewing probably 4 screws or so; pull that out vertically. The rad is held by two brackets on top screwed into the front frame. Remove the bolts on those brackets, and all that is holding the rad at that point are the hoses. Do a coolant flush while you're at it with some green Nissan Coolant (this is important) and get a few gallons of distilled water from the supermarket to mix the 50/50 collant/distilled water (it's a $1.25 per gallon, 99% of supermarkets have it).
As far as which radiator and where to buy it, Hit the search link on the blue ribbon above, click advanced, on the left side search string 'radiator,' below it choose 'search in title only' on the right side choose '4th gen maxima,' and press Search.
Don't ask the mechanic where he get's his parts; it's in poor taste. He get's it from the same place you'll get it, should you choose to diy, but he gets a price break for volume. But yeah, it's an easy job and all you need to know is in the forum. The hardest part is managing the fluids. You have tranny fluid in the radiator, and you have coolant. Once you disconnect the hoses you need to catch the coolant and a bit of tranny fluid, then decide whether you put it back in or replace it with new fluids.
You may also opt to replace some tranny fluid while you're at it.
I don't think patching will work. The metal is heating up and cooling, so it expands and contracts. I wouldn't patch it. You can drive with the leak, but you need to keep a keen eye on it so it doesn't get out of hand. But replacing the rad is the way to go.
Yep taking out a radiator is pretty easy. Just peel back the layers like a onion. You start on the outer layer which is the cooling fan and then look for wires that go into the fan and unhook the harnesses then go around the outside and look for screws or bolts holding in the fan I believe that should be one for each corner then just pull up. And if you feel like its not moving look around for clips or more screws holding it in.
Then for the second and final layer you would want to go around and remove all the hoses and lines that go in the radiator like the upper hose and a lower hose, and on some cars I've messed with there are transmission cooler lines that go into the radiator too so take everything out. At the top there should be two bracket things that hold the radiator in place so you would need to take those out and then go around the outside and there should be four bolts or clips holding in the radiator in each corner. Then just pull up and if you feel a lot of resistance just keep checking for stuff holding it in.
Sorry if a couple things aren't accurate, I am basing this on Kia cars since I haven't actually taken out my radiator yet only on this one Kia Optima hahaha
Then for the second and final layer you would want to go around and remove all the hoses and lines that go in the radiator like the upper hose and a lower hose, and on some cars I've messed with there are transmission cooler lines that go into the radiator too so take everything out. At the top there should be two bracket things that hold the radiator in place so you would need to take those out and then go around the outside and there should be four bolts or clips holding in the radiator in each corner. Then just pull up and if you feel a lot of resistance just keep checking for stuff holding it in.
Sorry if a couple things aren't accurate, I am basing this on Kia cars since I haven't actually taken out my radiator yet only on this one Kia Optima hahaha
Thanks for the help guys. Jwax I took your advice and got me a KOYO from Radiator Express Warehouse (1-800 Radiator). I called up KOYO and they directed me to these guys who happened to have one in stock pretty close to where I lived, so I just went and picked it up! $167 total for the radiator and cap. Had my friend who owns a motorcycle shop help with the install. Took us about half an hour, real simple. With Haynes Repair Manual at your side, it's a no brainer (although we didn't really need to use it, pretty self-explanatory). And we ended up just re-using the anti-freeze coolant and adding a bit of distilled water...it was in good shape but a little thick. All in all, saved almost $200 in parts and labor costs...GREAT SUCCESS!!
Thanks for the help guys. Jwax I took your advice and got me a KOYO from Radiator Express Warehouse (1-800 Radiator). I called up KOYO and they directed me to these guys who happened to have one in stock pretty close to where I lived, so I just went and picked it up! $167 total for the radiator and cap. Had my friend who owns a motorcycle shop help with the install. Took us about half an hour, real simple. With Haynes Repair Manual at your side, it's a no brainer (although we didn't really need to use it, pretty self-explanatory). And we ended up just re-using the anti-freeze coolant and adding a bit of distilled water...it was in good shape but a little thick. All in all, saved almost $200 in parts and labor costs...GREAT SUCCESS!!
should always use new coolant on new parts the coolant has additives that coat the new part. Also only use Toyota red Nissan green or Honda blue. These coolants are the only one approved for our motors silica free ect ect ect! ohh and "mix with any color" fluids are bull****.
Last edited by Br0nz; Sep 23, 2010 at 08:26 PM.
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