Some people say you have to remove the strut bolts and the ball joint,then yank the axle out.Some say to just undo the ball joint.Never did it before so advice is appreciated.Also how do you know for sure the new axle is seated?Is there a pin or something to install into a groove where the axle goes into the tranny?

 

Don't unbolt the balljoint because It's holding on to the wheel hub assy and the LCA. If your just tyring to remove the axle then,just take out the outer tierod bolt that goes into the hub and the axle nut from the hub 32mm/36mm. It's easier to remove the strut bolts so my advice is remove the bolts so you can move the hub back and forth so you can push the axle out of the hub housing easily. Don't forget the prybar so you can pry the axle out of the tranny housing. Make sure you know what kind of axle your going to need a non-locking/locking end diff.

 

i just unbolted the strut bolts turned the steering knuckle and let it go down as far as it would bend the axle too get the front out and a good yank on the axle then it rainnnedd gear oil over me. make sure your car is supported good with jackstands before you start pullen on it tho.

 

i've personally done it both way... I found out that removing the strut mount bolts, you will loose your allignment. For me it's quite a bit easy just to remove the cotter pin, un do the ball joint nut, and whack the ball joint with a hammer, and presto off.

 

From my personal experience, you just need to remove the wheel, two 17mm strut knuckle bolts and the axle nut and you should be able to pull the axle out of the bellhousing, lower it and then remove it from the hub.

I've never had to undo the ball joint or the tie rod FTR.

 

this guys got it. Undoing the tie rod would make it a lil easier tho.

 

Undoing the tie-rod has usually knocked out my steering wheel centering in the past so I don't recommend it. Anyhow, buy a new axle and not reconditioned... unless you have a good eye, but sounds like you're a noob at axle replacement (no offense).

 

why would you need to undo the tierod? i never have.. maybe undo the sway bar link..but thats it..

 

I usually just loosen everything, ball joint and tierod, I dont care if it throw the aligment off because I have the lifetime alignment package. I rather just loosen two nuts rather than fight with a tight squeeze. I've done both and I simply prefer spending 2 extra minutes loosening rather than struggling with space or even damaging the new axles threads while trying to get it in.

 

dont do he tie rod , no need, just undo the strut and it slides out. sometimes i have seen the tie rod turn when tightening the nut again, sometimes, not always but it happends. thats my opinion