After replacing my clutch and rear main seal , I went to Richmond, Va on some business. Stop on the Chamberlayne exit to get gas. Pulled up to the Gas pump and filled up, then went to start my car. It would not start for anything. I just cleaned the Mass air flow sensor with the method from the forum How clean maf under-10w/pics. From 10:30 am; until Sunday evening I was stuck in VA . So now my car is stuck in Richmond until I get it towed back here.

Diagnoses: Car only starts when I get push from the back and I use my clutch, but thats it. What are solution guys.

 

So are you saying your car will start when push started? Poping the clutch? Will it run fine after your push start it? If that is the case then I would say your starter/solenoid is bad. I guess this may be a stupid question but why not just push start it then don't turn it off until you get home then fix it when you get home.

When you say it will not start does it crank at all, or does it just do nothing when you turn the key over?

I am in central va so I may be of some help to you.

 

The car turns but it doesn't start, and the car will run for like 5 minutes then cut off on its own. It does crank but, will not turn over. I will be in Richmond in about 4 hours. I will be taking my car back to Gainsville, Va; where I will work on at my brother-in-laws house. If you want to make a trip one weekend thats cool and we can have some brews and look at my car.

 

during the 5 minutes that the car will run does it run well? What happens before it turns off? Any lights on the dash? Is your CEL on?

 

It runs good like there is nothing wrong, I maybe wrong. But, the engine just cuts out.all the lights come on the dash after it cuts out. I pick the car up last night after sitting for 2 days and it still did not start.

 

How are you battery connections and your engine grounds? Check engine light, what codes are you throwing?

 

I may have to check the engine ground, but other than that, I will check the codes this weekend and see what it is throwing out. That may be the answer looking me right in front of my face....

 

I had similar issues once. Turned out to be the battery connection. The cable was tightened down as far as it could go but there was still slight movement on the post. A $1 post shim from Autozone fixed it.

 

Might check out your crank position sensor and harness, since you mentioned you had just done a clutch and rear main seal. It could be the sensor is not sitting correctly, or the harness might be grounding out somehow.

S

 

ur alternator culd of crapd out on you

 

I was thinking the crank sensor might have a issue, but I was hoping that would not be the case. Imma check it out this weekend. Thanx to all Max enthusist for all the help. If anyone have any more suggestions, I will continue to take them. What would I do without enthusist lik you.

 

Hell, if you can do the clutch and rear main, you don't really need us. We're just by-standers watching an expert at work.

 

Can you look in the wiring diagram to see how ECM determines your engine is actually running? The symptoms of engine starting for few seconds and dieing look like fuel pump cut-off. Generally, ECM has a safety feature to turn off fuel-pump when the engine STOPS running. Various methods are used to determine if engine is running or not. This safety feature is bypassed during cranking. If that fail-safe mechanism thinks engine is not running, your fuel-pump stops and engine eventually quits.

I agree with the previous responder; your expertise is way beyond most of us here. We are just trying to shoot in the dark.

- Vikas

 

It may be true fellows that I have Mechanic experience, but it seems like you all are right up here with me. Because of all the feed back I have recieved. I honestly never thought of any these ideas, and I thank you all for each and everyone of these . It seems that if I had a shop, I would want everyone of you working there because of your problem solving skillz.

 

Could the crank position sensor also cause the engine to shut down at speed? & at stop lights?

 

While I am driving it, the car would dut out.

 

have you had a chance to pull codes yet?

 

And you're sure it isn't bad gas, right? We had a pump in town that crippled about a dozen cars one afternoon. *crosses fingers* You just forgot to mention the other ten people standing around scratching their heads, right?

 

I did the 3rd one, but I was unaware that I had to get the ECU flashed when I changed the MAF.

 

Not yet omie, I have been kinda busy with the wife, however I will get out there. Starting to miss the Blaque Knight and the sound system.

 

P0100
P0110
P1491
P0158

 

Does your scanner not tell you what those mean? More info and we can probably figured it out.

 

MAF, IAT, Vacuum cut valve bypass valve, O2 sensor high voltage. Only the first one of those will make your car shut off as far as I know.

 

Fellows I got the car running but it has a hard start to it. I have to hold the accelerater down half way, in order to get it started.

Yeah which one makes the car shut off, if it is the MAF,that is a brand new one.
@ Cardana: alldata told me in detail what problems they consist of.

 

Yeah I agree about the MAF. I don't know what a vaccum cut valve bypass valve is...but that sounds like something could be a problem

If you unplug the MAF does the car act any different?

 

Check the engine ground and/or battery cables and/or battery voltage. String of unrelated codes strongly point to bad connection or bad battery.

I suspect that you had to remove lots of electrical connections when you did the clutch and rear main seal. Just recheck them.

 

Does a manuel Transmission have seals that could make the trans leak gear oil into the bell housing.

 

that's where the rear main is.

 

I know play boi , but it is not leaking from the rear main seal, its coming from somewhere in the bell housing near the transmission.

 

I did not try that, but the car seems to be alomst starting up normal like it suppose to. Not really having to hold the accelerater down anymore.