Hello, 'Im planning on doing a 5 speed conversion on my 98 maxima SE and Im currently gathering all the parts. I came across a 99 I30t LSD 5 speed manual transmission for $375, with only 128,000 miles on it!!! Is this a good deal? I understand that this will fit my maxima with no problems and that I will need LSD manual axles to make the swap a success. Any other tips or suggestions that I should know about this particular transmission when doing the swap? Harness, ECU, etc. Thx in advance.

 

If you are already 5spd, just axles are needed.

If you are an auto...well it depends on how legit you want your swap to be. Search is your friend on this one...but if you want it to be a swap without codes, you will need the ECU and the wiring harness from a 5mt.

And $375 is an excellent price, if theres no play in the diff bearings/input shaft, I'd pick it up in a heartbeat.

 

Ok, thx 99blackmax. He says the transmission has no problems, Im gonna pick it up. Im doing an auto to 5 speed conversion. Will a 95 5 speed manual ECU work? Anybody?

 

oh wow, i wish i found that when i was looking for a trans

 

375 more like a steal lol...when you go to check it out give it a spin check for any noises. if the rods are still connected make sure it goes into all gears

 

I believe because you are 99 you will need 99 5MT ECU. I believe the earlier ECUs use a different pinout.

 

LOL...thx. Actually, the transmission is already out of the vehicle, I just need to go there pick it up. I will be sure to examine it.

 

ok well seein as its out jus spin it...

 

Ok, will do.

 

He's a 98' .... and no need to change the ECU for anything. There is the issue (if he's auto atm) of the P/N switch ... but that can be bypassed pretty easy, or you just live with the CEL that it will throw.

Also .... anytime you buy a used MT, pop it open (or have a shop to do so - shouldn't cost much, maybe a bill) and look it over, check the bearings, the syncroz, seals, etc... It's well worth popping it open now, vs in 6 months needing a rebuild and then it's the R+R all over again. $375 is a good deal, but keep in mind you'll need : support rod, shift rod, flywheel, axles, interior trim around the shifter, trans mount (is different between auto and MT) .... it starts to add up, but the major expense is the MT alone. That's a good deal, just make sure you get it checked out (or DIY) prior to install.

 

Thx JTZ MAX! I will do that. I appreciate all the information. Can anyone tell me how to tell if your car is an ABS? Is it written somewhere on the car or is it labeled somewhere? I heard it is a pain in the butt to do the swap if you have an ABS.

 

It's easy to tell if it has ABS. Look under the hood under the master cyclinder. If it is equipted with anti lock brakes you will see twice the amount of brake lines and an ABS control unit bolted to the inner fender well under the master cyclinder. Aloso you can tell by looking at the front bearing assembly near the caliper. If you see an electrical wire going to the wheel hub then it also has ABS. the second method works good if you do not have under hood access.
On another note if I scored a tranny that cheap I would pick up an overhaul kit for another $450 and freshen it up. 120K is not much for a tranny but if it was hammered on there will be play. You scored such a good deal you may as well spend a little extra and do it right the first time so you don't have to tear it all apart again in 6 months especially if you plan on hammering it a little yourself. That's half the fun of having a Maxima...
Geo

 

Ok, I see. I will check it out. Thx for the insight geo. Man,the org is the best thing since sliced bread, LOL. Alot of knowledge on here from maxima enthusiasts! Gotta love it!

 

Sounds like a good deal to me

 

Damn what a steal!!!!....I'm jealous now . GL with the build.

 

Bah! I would be staying 5spd if I found a LSD 5MT tranny that cheap.... Good deal!!! Even if you have to replace a few bearings.

 

Great deal for a working trans but I bet the VLSD is toast with that many miles. Check it just in case - maybe you got double lucky!

 

Are you still in the process of doing the 6 spd swap?

 

I haz all of the parts (when I say all, I mean ALL), it's the fab work that is holding me back right now.

It has no longer become a mod for me, instead of a repair because this 5spd's track days are soon to an end (1st and 2nd gear whirring now).


**Vulture alert**

If that 5spd ends up being a dud... shoot me a PM, I might pick it up

 

I just got the shift linkage for the swap and Im going to pick up the transmission tomorrow. The shift linkage that I pulled off of a maxima did not have the bolts that hooked onto the tranny. Does anybody know what are the sizes/ part # of the 2 bolts that hook the shift linkage onto the tranny? (Engine and tranny was not there when I pulled off the linkage) Thx.

 

Doesn't matter the size, but IIRC they are 12mm. Just get a couple of bolts, those don't matter as long as they are long enough, but not too long

 

hey tell me how this goes.
i plan on doing the same... in the far far future, though.
you're a brave one.

 

Ok, thx jtzmax! I will tell you all how it goes after I get the rest of the parts and Im ready to do the conversion.

 

Does ANYBODY know where I can get the 8 bolts for the flywheel, some clutch hydraulic lines, and a manual transmission mount???? I tried ebay but, had no luck . Can these items be bought at the dealer? I hope they dont charge an arm and a leg. Also, I was browsing around on the org and I read a post where it said if your taking out a transmission you dont have to take out the passenger side, because it will save you 30 min of time??? Is this true?. Also, since the automatic and manual axles are the same for the PASSENGER SIDE I will only need the drivers side axle right? I just want to be sure.

 

Aftermarket: Flywheel bolts can be matched at a local fastener company but they will probably be special order because they're fine thread(my experience $30 for a minimum of 10.. I bought from DaveB instead), oe clutch hoses can be replaced with one stainless hose for $40 or less(GroupDeal section or your local performance shop), mt mount ($90-Napa,$75-AZ)

Nissan: Flywheel bolts(around $6 each), clutch hoses($60), tranny mount($105). Pricing should be reflective of DaveB at Southpoint or Courtesy.

I would take the extra few minutes and pull the passenger axle.

 

Ok, thx for the info nelledge! I will check it out and I will be sure to take off that passenger side axle.

 

Wait a minute! Can I use the flywheel bolts from my automatic transmission? Does my automatic tranny have those 8 bolts? Also, this may be a stupid question but, can I use the flywheel off of my auto to go onto the manual?

 

Not the same according to dealer part #s.

No. Flyweel vs Flexplate. Totally different, won't work. But good question.
You're welcome.

 

Ok, I see. I appreciate your info nelledge.

 

Ok, the parts list that I'm going off of are based on this list! My question is what bolt for the clutch pedal is he referring to when he says to get 1 bolt that bolts in the top of the clutch pedal (the dealer can find it's size for you)? When I went to the salvage yard to pull off the clutch pedal from the firewall and the slave master cylinder I made sure I kept all those bolts. Is he talking about another bolt? Is it located somewhere else? I need to know so I wont run into any errors! Also, am I missing any parts from this list and what parts do "I NOT NEED" from this list? Anybody? Thank you.

Parts Needed:
5 Speed Transmission (try and get the I30 LSD or Canadian Maxima LSD if possible – doubt it)
Both Manual drive shafts (if you have ABS you need specific ones, if you don't have ABS you can use ABS ones)
1 clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing)
2 shifting rods (support rod + control rod) (acquire used w/ all the hardware)
Return spring (connect to the 2 shifting rods (Buy this new, the stiffer the tighter your shifter feels)
1 shifter (Acquire used to get nuts and bolts (buy with the shifter rods)
1 shifter console piece (interior)
1 shift consul bracket (Replaces your auto one) (interior) (dealer name plate bolt and transaxle hole cover)
1 brake pedal
1 clutch pedal
1 master cylinder
Hydraulic lines for clutch
1 slave cylinder for clutch
1 extra set of transmission harnesses (might come w/ 5spd transmission)
1 18ga wire and wiretaps
Assorted cotter pin set.
1 Manual Fly wheel
1 Manual motor mount
Transmission Fluid (GL-4 or redline is preferable)
Locking pin and clip for the clutch pedal to the master cylinder (you could bend a nail but I would go to the dealer and pay $4)
2 nuts that fit the threads on the clutch pedal.
1 bolt that bolts in the top of the clutch pedal (the dealer can find it's size for you)
1 bolt that connects the control rod to the transmission (the dealer can find it's size for you)
1 Haynes Manual just in case you need extra help

 

I'd say to find a copy of the FSM (factory service manual) as opposed to the Haynes (but both are valuable in their own right) and of course, you got the .Org too! Other than that, I can't think of anything. Tools might help too ya know, unless you have sockets for fingers. Not exactly sure what is meant by the harness for MT, no such thing that I am aware of.

IIRC, Pmohr did a write up on this / or some sort of 'how to' regarding this, I know he did the swap and maybe he'll pop in here and can add more insight. My 5mt is stock so I never had to mess with doing the swap.

 

Ok, thx again Jtzmax, you always come through! I tried searching the link for Pmohr writeup on the transmission swap but, had no luck. Can u send me the link please? Thx.

 

Does any one know how many clutch lines I need going from the metal spaghetti clutch lines to the transmission? Is this SS clutch line good, I found it on ebay for a total of $20 each.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2109wt_1165

 

Also, does any one know where I can get the return spring that goes under the shifter rather than going to the dealership? Dealership charges $13 for the spring. I'm not trying to be cheap, just looking for another alternative.

 

If it hasnt been mentioned u only need the Driver side axle. AT/MT passenger side axles are the same regardless of diff. u can save a few bucks if ur axle is good.

95 fed spec ECUs are FTW, stupidly lax emissions.

 

If I were you, I'd just take out the spaghetti lines and go straight from master to slave.

 

Will this work with no problems? Do you have it on your car? How many clutch lines will I need and Can I get a longer length? Do you have it on your car, if so can you post some pics up? Thx.

 

Ok, thx.

 

The stainless line replacement works with no problems. I only replaced the rubber hoses, because I live in a warm climate in which the metal lines don't corrode, so it doesn't make sense for me to replace those. I had a local hotrod shop make it to the length I desired (I had them make it a couple inches longer than the length of the two hoses). Most areas have performance shops or hydraulic shops, but it may take a few phone calls to find one that makes stainless lines. Since it's custom, they will make it anyway you ask them. Cost me about $30. It obviously feels better than the leaking rubber hoses, but I don't think there is a discernable advantage besides the cost and wear factors.

 

Ok, thx nelledge! I found a deal on ebay, this company makes it for our 4th gens and 5th gens. They sell the complete SS clutch line that goes to the master cylinder to slave. Is this all I need? So your saying that I can DITCH the oem spaghetti metal clutch lines that I got from the salvage yard and just use the SS CLUTCH LINE?!! Anybody? SS clutch line link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2192wt_1165