Okay guys, so...

I picked up my 6MT last night, and drove around all night with no problems.

Drove it around this morning, no problems. Today, I went to leave my shop, and put the car in reverse, and nothing.

I had to drive home in 4th, the car wouldn't engage 5th, 6th or Reverse. It almost feels like the whole shift linkage has shifted to the right. (E.G., 1st is almost where 3rd should be, 2nd where 4th, etc.) When I try to put the car into reverse, it slides into 4th gear, try for 5th, goes to 3rd and so on.

Any ideas? Or has anyone experienced this? Thanks everyone in advance...

 

put the clutch in









did you try to match rpms and shift without the clutch into 5th or 6th? Not even joking on this note

 

Nope...no power shifting. I know that's a bad idea.

The only other thing I can think is maybe I busted a tranny mount and the whole transmission shifted.

I'm going to have to take it down to my buddy's shop later and see if we can figure it out I suppose.

 

i dont wana say what i think it is..

 

Even if you busted a tranny mount, its still bolted the the motor. The transmission cant move like your thinking it might.

Have you checked the fluid level yet? On my 5MT, it locked me out of 1st and 2nd when my fluid was low.

 

Reverse is gated... what happens when you actually lift the gate and put it in reverse?

Whether or not it goes forward or backward will tell you if the linkage somehow shifted...

 

The 6MT use cables, not a solid linkage. I'm assuming you know, but just used the wrong terminology. (or maybe I am)

 

OP, the cable and brackets are so much easier to analyze if you don't have the stock airbox.

So before you do anything, anything at all, install a SRI on your new car.

(heh heh)

 

Check the shifter cable bracket mounted on the transmission right under the airbox. Make sure that isn't broken. Also pop the shifter bezel and look down there to make sure the cable is still securely intact with the shifter lever. Let me know if you find the discrepancy.

 

Sounds like the cable that controls the side/side movement of the shifter has taken a **** or has gotten bound up or something. I would start by simply removing the boot on the shifter, and inspecting in there. Move toward the top of the trans after that. (A friend is good for this, have them shift while you check on the trans)

 

y0O **** g0t dA aIDz

 

Even lifting the gate and putting it in reverse causes the tranny to simply slide into 4th gear. I'll have it up on the lift shortly to see what the deal is.

Thanks for all the input guys. I appreciate it. I'll be sure to start at the shifter and work my way down.

 

check the fluid as essential said, mine was bone dry and i had a hard time getting it into any gear

 

lol'd




SLC, what does it do with the car off and the clutch in? also, disconnect the shift cable at the transmission (refer to the STS thread) and see if you can get all gears moving it by hand AT the transmission. your side to side motion in the car translates to up and down motion on the transmission arm, so you should be able to grab the shift arm on the tranny and push it toward the ground (5+6) and pull it toward the hood (1+2). it should auto "center" to the 3-4 position. im thinking something must be binding. you don't just LOSE an entire gate most of the time.

 

Fixed.

Turns out that at some point in the past, it looks as though someone did some maintenance on the shifter linkage and forgot to install one of the clips that holds it to the bracket. Driving it around, I must've just managed to pop the lower cable free from its bracket. So I went and bought a new clip at Advance and popped it in. Took me all of 45 minutes.

Checked the gear oil, and a few other things. Found out someone used Permatex to install the oil pan and the rear valve cover. Both of which are leaking... So that's the next thing to fix. After that, I should be good to go.

Thanks for the input, everyone. I'm glad this was a lot easier fix than I'd originally thought.

 

Good to know.

 

Lies. You are just a noob in the ways of 3 pedal driving.

 

Good, simple fix. Glad to hear it.

Get your shifter bushings yet? Here's a write on for the bushings under the shifter assembly:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-assembly.html

 

So they used permatex alone for the gasket? And not gasket + permatex?

Glad to hear you fixed the problem and it wasnt anything serious by the way.

 

Not yet, but that's my next plan of attack. I'm sort of strapped on spending money right now because I bought my car a nice, new set of shoes yesterday. Thanks for the link to the how-to, though.

From the looks of it, they only used permatex. There are spots around the the lip where the upper and lower meet that look like they don't even have a gasket there. Other spots, permatex is buldging out of the side of the pan.

I was so relieved when I looked down at the linkage and found it unhooked. I was really, really expecting it to be a lot worse than a stupid clip.

 

Hey new to this but I got a question... I have an 02 GLE and want to put a 6MT in it is there any computers that I need to change when I do this.. And if so which ones??

 

Well, you can get a felpro oil pan gasket from advance auto for less the $10 if i'm not mistaken, and they usually come with the gasket sealant also, so that wont be an expensive fix for you. Also, for the rear vc, use this as an opportunity to upgrade to the 04+ vc.

 

As far as the ECU, you can either go out and buy a manual one, or you can try and splice some wires, as far as I just heard. There's a way to do it...but I don't know exactly how.

Are you sure you want to do a tranny swap? It's a pretty big job. By the time you buy the clutch, tranny, flywheel, all the linkage, master and slave cylinders, etc. etc., and tally in all the labor costs/hours if you're doing it yourself, you might almost be better off to buy yourself a 6MT and sell the GLE.

I'd venture as far as to say buying a 6MT and selling your GLE would actually leave you with more money in your pocket than the tranny swap would...

 

One of my buddies is friends with the head parts manager at the local Nissan dealer, so I'm going to see what kind of price they can get me on the OEM gasket.

I'm definitely upgrading to the 04 covers. All this will happen when I swap my headers over. The car will be getting a full tune-up before it sees any...spirited driving.

 

But from that other thread:
I think the answer is obvious: Drive back to the kid and explain to him that he's very dumb and bad at maintaining his car. Then punch his kidneys.

 

A1DZ!

 

The amazing part is, I was looking through all the papers (he kept every documented receipt for any maintenance done) and it showed that a local Nissan "specialist" store did the oil pan and valve cover.

So much for specialists.

 

Not meaning to thread-jack, but the newbie can't start a new one, and it seems this thread's been resolved so I'll throw a reply in here:

I did a bit of digging on this topic myself some months ago, and OP, there are plenty of threads to search for useful info on your idea, take advantage of the knowledge available here.

It is quite the undertaking, as SLC mentioned, but AFAIK, there really isn't any "computer" concern, when going from an auto to a manual. If you wanted to go auto from stick, then yeah, but not so much the other way around. You will have to make the park/neutral safety switch talk to the clutch pedal switch, but that's all the electronics I can think of.

Other than that, it's as SLC said, lots and lots of hard parts and work. Interior center consoles, pedal assemblies, clutch lines and cylinders, I think even the CV axles are different? between the two trans? The trans mount is different, maybe even the starter? because of the flexplate/flywheel differences?

You'd have a rare car, if you did it, but if you really wanted to do it right, you're gonna want to replace the gauge cluster too, and again, potentially also the ECM, but after all the money you're looking at spending, what's a junkyard 6MT ECM on top of everything else?

So, again, search, read, and then decide if you want to proceed. Anything's do-able, given a fat enough wallet, but at the end of the day, is your time/money really expendable enough to satisfy your desire to do this?

 

:matt93se:





I'm kidding. But in all seriousness, the 6MT swap will most definitely be a long, arduous task. That's why instead of undertaking it, I just searched around till I found a 6MT for a good price.

 

But yeah, agreed, it's not something you just wake up and say "I think I'll swap my auto trans for a stick today".

I'm perfectly happy with my auto, frankly, for what I want out of this car, I don't want to be shifting gears all the time. To each his own, right?

 

Right...

 

That's honestly what I did... Granted the 5 speed is pretty much a bolt on affair though...

 

FYI... as per the FSM: Seal upper and lower oil pan with liquid gasket(999MP-AM003P or equivalent: Permatex Ultra Grey 82194).
There are no gaskets from the factory on the lower oil pan. Same for the upper oil pan unless you include the front and rear lip gaskets.

 

I know that for the oil pan, the FSM says to just use sealant. But felpro does make an oilpan gasket for our car too which I recomend if you have access too. I was mainly reffering to the valve cover only being sealed with permatex.

 

Ahh... Gotcha.

 

Definitely to each their own. I've been happier with my 6MT the last three days than I was the four years I owned my 4AT. But that's just me.

Scout's honor.

Whoever sealed the oil pan did it...sub par, at best. So, even if it does only take permatex, I'd still like to drop the pan and re-seal it.

It also doesn't look like ultra grey was used, as the seal is white...

 

So there is a difference between the colors? We only have black and white at my work, but the truck parts place I get sent to every few days has black, white, gray, and blue. There might be even more colors, but I've never bothered to read the boxes and figure out what makes them different. They're all RTV silicones, right?

 

The only gasket you have between the upper and the lower are the half moon ones in the front and rear. The rest should be siliconed. I would use gray and not black RTV.