Hi guys... Well after almost 2 years reading and reading finally stop my car and began the 5 speed conversion and the vq35 swap on my car. Well at this moment i am almost ready but i make a few changes on my setup and i Have some minor problems that i wanna discuss with you guys to make sure theres nothing wrong. I will post pictures later because for now i am on my iphone on my work

My mods list for now:

2005 Vq35de engine from a maxima 8,000 miles..
JWT S1 cams ( i bought them from a guy who has a 2003 350z )
Stephen Max cam adapters( thank you man excellent product)
UR underdrive pulley
Greddy sp2 catback
Obx v2 long headers
Ralko z short shifter
Clutchmaster stage 2
Greddy Emanage Ultimate
2001 path throttle body

As for now this are my mods depending if i have to get out my heads.
Here is my problem, i install the JWT cams and when i install my timing back and rotate my engine the engine stuck and stop.. When i checked i notice that
the #5 piston was up and the exhaust valves on that cylinder was open. Now, i check my timing on the cams and were right. The 2 dowels pin up and the 2 point on the sprockets facing together. Now, i pull out all the timing and when i put the cams with the dowels up it is also the same valves open. So, what i am doing wrong? It is right to be that valves open?

I will post sone pictures when i get home on my laptop. Thank you!

 

Just double double check that you were TDC and all the mark line up. Do you have the spark plugs out of the engine? Don't force it.

 

Yes, i took out the 6 spark plugs. Im gonna doble check that, i think that the crankshaft was not on time. The oil pump has a mark like a line, just to make sure, that's not the mark of TDC?

 

Not 100% sure. But I know that timing is generally always set at TDC, if the valves are open as the piston is coming up, it is not set correctly, so double check your crank timing marks and reset the cams.

 

Well i took a little break to read and use the search link and i found the answer of the correct position to put the TDC right!!!
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...-3-5-swap.html
I post it here to make it easy for anyone who has the same problem!

I will post some pictures soon....

 

Here are some pictures of my progress.....

 

my EGR system was out of service...jeje

 

well i will continue tomorrow...i have to sleep... comments are welcome...

 

Nice!

Good luck with the project.

 

Thank you!!! I hope will be a beast on the street..

 

haha damn gl bro

 

Good luck with your swap.
It always start like that, you crave for more power, you change the engine and after a while,
the mod bug will bite again. What will be next....

 

Jejejeje... That is true, we are always gonna need another mod, but we like it

 

well, a few more...



the vq30 with the transmission together..it was a pain but i get it out..

 

thanks to my best friend to help me out but, next time wash of your dirty hands after you use your i phone man.. you're crazy...



ohh and enjoy your new car...g35 2007 like it, like it!!


thank you for such great job..i will miss you!!

****now guys need your advice and recommendations here****

My radiator support has a bad cancer, i want to know what i can do or what are my options here... i check with a friend on the Nissan and he tell me that they not sell this part alone, it came like in one piece. This is a trouble to me at this point but let see what can be done.

 

You can order the rad support from any Nissan dealer, if I remember correctly it cost about 100- 150$. You will have to remove everything in front, meaning radiator, headlight and whatever is bolted to the front, you can leave the cross member but it might not be a bad idea to put a jack underneath just to make sure there is not to much stress on the side mount. I used a zip gun to break the spot welding, I also used a mig welder to weld the front rad support but it was PITA. the metal is to thin, If I had to do it again I would either use an acety/oxy torch with bronze or just rent a spot welder. I suggest that you leave the car on a flat spot and make sure it's on perfect level, ( front/rear, left /right ) if you have questions dont hesitate I'd be more than happy to help.

Cheers

AA

 

I figured this out yesterday. The oil pump mark is TDC but its not what you think. The trailing edge of the woodruff key on the crankshaft as you turn it clockwise should be right on the mark of the oil pump. I initially put the key in the very center of the oil pump mark, but I was off by 1-2 cm. The best way to do it is to put the outer timing cover on as a mock up, crank pulley and crank bolt (I put tape around the edge so it wouldn't nick the two mating surfaces between inner and outer cover),, turn the crank slightly so it matches the FIRST notch on the crank pulley to the water pump's indicator, then take the outer cover off and set up your chain. Make sure you secure the crankshaft so it does not move when installing the crank pulley and when uninstalling the crank pulley once you get the crank position correct. I wedged screwdrivers between the motor stand and the 3.5 flex plate's holes and clamped a few vice grips to the timing ring gear on the 3.5 flex plate so it cannot spin against the stand's arms. When you have it set to the water pump's indicator, the oil pump indicator will match the trailing edge of the woodruff key. After you set TDC, you will want to make sure the flexplate is still completely imobilized until you finally finish the timing. Make sure that your camshafts are close to true before you do this. If you camshafts are largely at the TDC position, but your crank is only off by a tiny bit, its not a big deal to move it over. After all, at TDC position the number 1 cylinder's camshaft lobes are up, so those valves are not depressed and are in no danger of contacting the piston, so its safe to turn the crank that tiny bit without any primary chain.