(originally posted in audio forum to no avail)
4th gen automatic
BOSE system

Okay, the scenario I'm currently in has boggled my brain for months, confused me deeply, and has recently made me realize how I just wasted money on a new headunit. I'll describe below...

Once upon a time, I wanted my foglights to function like DRL's (my bro's MKV GTi inspired me). I searched how to rewire and bam!, a mod to rewire the fogs to the wiper relay. Okay, as I figured out I can do this by myself without any true knowledge of car electronics, I dove into the project. I disconnected the negative terminal as to not fry out any electronics in the car. I opened the relay box, found the wire to cut, and electric taped that baby up. I popped the negative terminal clamp back on, put the keys into accessory and...nothing. Okay, so again, I disconnect the terminal, and realize my mistake(wired the wrong side of the green/yellow wire). I wire the correct way and put the terminal back on. ZAPZAPZAPZAP went the starter because I forgot the keys were in accessory! No big deal, I disconnected the terminal once more and took the keys out. Started it the proper way and now I have DRL style fogs . Eager to show the local streets my new modification, I took it around town, cruising around hoping people admire it . Then I was thinking I want to blast some music so I hit the volume button and...nothing. I quickly realized that the radio hadn't even turned on since the rewire. My 1st reaction was a blown fuse. Checked all BOSE related fuses and all are fine. So then I concluded I fried my HU and its time to buy a new one. I finally purchased one today and installed it. I thought my problems were finally over and then, nothing. WTFWTF GAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH MOTHER ******.

This doesn't add up! There isn't anything in the relay box that has to do with radio, so I couldn't have cut a wire. And also, the fuses are fine! I need serious help because I really can't stand wearing my headphones while I'm trying to enjoy my catback and my freaking car stereo system. The headunits aren't broken(atleast I don't think) because the lights turn on inside!

Anybody undergo similar problems or have any suggestions/solutions? because I plan on selling maxi real soon and I want to avoid losing money over a non working radio. THANKS IN ADVANCE YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST

 

The HU gets power on pin 10. This is the larger of the 2 connectors. The wire color is solid blue. Pin 10 is in one of the corners. Fuse #21, 10 amps, feeds it. But since you have the lights, I seriously doubt that this is the problem.

The Bose system has an audio amplifier built into each speaker that gets power separately from the main part of the HU. Fuse F22, 15 amp, powers them. There is a relay, the Audio Amp relay, between the fuse and the amplifiers. When you turn on the HU, the HU sends power to activate the relay.

I would check this first. The power from the relay goes to each speaker on a solid red wire. Get a voltmeter and with the HU powered on, check for 12 volts at any speaker. The rear speakers are easier to get to through the trunk. If no 12 volts, check the fuse, F22.

The Audio Amp relay is in the console, passenger side, in the ash tray area. There may be a 2nd relay by it if you have a heated side view mirror on the door.

 

Okay, well I checked both of the fuses, as well as every single fuse in both fuse boxes. Nothing, both 22 and 21 are fine, as in both are the correct amp and neither are blown. I don't have a volt meter handy but I will tomorrow. Also, where is the relay? If it looks anything like the relay's in the engine bay nearest the wiper fluid reservoir, I don't remember seeing them in the console when I replaced the headunit.

When I pick up the volt meter, I'll probably just pick up both a 15 and a 10 amp fuse because its worth the try; maybe a fuse did blow and im not seeing it.

 

Did you check the fuses with a test light, or rely on a visual inspection?

 

I just had this same problem. Checked the pins on the fuses with a test light and not one under the dash lights up which is really weird. Think my wiper short is causing this?

I did fix the radio problem though, ended up being my cig. lighter fuse. Pulled it, turned the key to the ON position, turned it back off, replaced that fuse and turned the key back to the ON position and now its fine. I have a feeling the blown LEDs in my footwell lights caused some sort of short there so I removed them until I get a new set (they were tapped into the cig. lighter BTW).

 

only visual :x And tomorrow hopefully its something my eye couldn't see i. need. music

 

okay well I replaced both fuse 22, and fuse 21. Nothing...I can punch a hole in my windshield right now. If it isn't the fuses, I'm about to just suck it up and go to an audio shop. I haven't tried anything with the relays yet because I don't know exactly where they are. I know besides the fusebox under the steering wheel is like 2 or 3 relays to the left of the fuses themselves. But since this whole **** started when I was rewiring relays, I wouldn't mind trying to **** with them some more.

any input? thanks guys, you really are the best

 

I think it would be easier to check the red wire at a speaker. Relays don't go bad that often. But here is a diagram of relay location.

 

alright, I'm off tomorrow so I'l check it. What if it comes back no volts? Do I have to replace the relay? And can I buy it at like an AAP or an autozone or someting?

 

I know it's hard to tell from this picture but those relays are actually located in the kick panel.

 

and I'm guessing the kick panel is that plastic thing thats comes down from the center console?

 

i believe when your sitting in the passenger seat ur right foot would be resting against the kick panel

 

so you had a bose system with a factory head unit in which you burnt it out. You then opted to replace the bose with an aftermarket head unit and did not re-wire the car correct? If you have done this, you either get blown speakers or fried head unit. The bose system has an amplified wire going to each speaker. The bose head unit delivers a low level into each speaker wire which is then boosted by an amp to deliver to the speaker. You may have caused troubleed because you did not buy an adapter that turns the high level output (from the after market head unit) into a low level. So basically your head unit was outputting at a level which is good for non-bose systems because they don't have an amp before each speaker. You will need to either get a pac- controller system or run wires directly to the speakers for your system to work properly.

Stock headunit with Bose system
Stock unit = low level -->amp-->speaker = ok

Aftermarket head unit with bose system
Aftermarket unit = Higher level --->amp-->speaker = blown speakers or fried head unit

Pac systems are a lil expensive. Search for PAC for maxima and you will know what i'm talking about. If you want, i have a sony head unit, with a sony flip out and a pac system that i will let go for cheap. Hopefully this solves your problems.

 

nono i think I might not have made myself clear or I forgot to say. My new headunit is also an OEM bose from a 99 max. The replacement was in vain, the lights work in both so I can assume that the older one worked.

 

I could very well be wrong about the console. I was going by the picture I posted that is from the FSM. My car wasn't made with a Bose so I don't have that relay.

Sorry for the bad info.

 

HUGE UPDATE. I got it to work again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I bet most, if not all,of you know the feeling of having a brain fart that actually works. Last night in bed, I was thinking of EVERYTHING from that day and then I remembered; I switched my busted 15amp fuse from my foglight with a 15 fuse just chilling in the fusepanel. It wasn't marked so I thought nothing of it! well I couldn't wait to try it today and BAM IT WORKS. This concludes my final project with Maxi, as I plan to sell her around april for a 5.5 gen 6speed. Thanks so much for ALL of your help. It wasn't in vain, it just shows me that there are consequences to face when you aren't completely sure of what your doing

 

wouldnt splicing a wire and running a switch jus been easier???