hey wuts up guys hows it goen. I own a 92 maxima se 5 spd I replaced my transmission about a year ago as some of you may know and put one that had about 60k on it and honestly felt like new again.

so basically a few wierds things have been happening this past week im going to explain this as best as possible guys so bare with me. For starters let me add that pretty much ever since I put my new transmission in a year ago ive always seen oil around it normally by the rear seal I believe is what its called. When i showed it to my mechanic he informed me that its normal for old trannys to leak a tiny bit of gear oil and that at that rate it would leak a pint in a year ( w.e i wasnt rly counting on his advice cause i planned to keep an eye on anything fishy going on like leaks or bad shifting but for about a year..till now everything was fine )

okay so to the point basically ive always had that squeeky clutch noise goin on but a few days ago i started feeling like a wierd cracking feel as i was letting go of the clutch. After a while of getting the really annoying hinge noise and awkward cracking clutch pedal feel i went to push down on my clutch one day and some plastic piece broke off around my clutch area( or so i believe ) and the noise AND awkward feel on the clutch just disapeared.. vanished. As the days went on i was having a lot of trouble starting my car like i had the clutch engaged but it wasnt starting..after a close look i realized when the clutch was pressed in it wasnt reaching that lil black button that lets the car know its okay to start. since that ive been pushing the bottom down to start my car without any use of the clutch. now you guys are probably wondering where the hell am i going with this already.

Since about two days ago ive been getting some really notchy shifting and unordinary tranny feels. Its hard to put it in first and second, also sometimes when I put it in third , even tho my clutch is all the way down i get that feeling when you try to put it in gear when the clutch ISNT all the way down, like that grinding noise. Its wierd cause ive been use to my tranny for some time now and its always been good but it wasnt till AFTER all this b.s that it started to happen I mean logically it doesnt seem to be related to any of these clutch stuff thats goen on but it happened during the same time so I rly cldnt think of anythin else i mean i dont abuse my tranny or anything or doing anything different..i just drive it exactly how it should be driven.

somethings i should add, as of now there arent any leaks under neath my tranny. I got a gear oil change about a month ago and when i went to put my finger in there i didnt get any oil on my finger it was like seriously low maybe like a quart or two but my car was shifting like a charm i didnt question twice there wasnt something wrong!(and there wasnt anything wrong!) Anyway we changed it i put redline mt-90 and it was shifting just as good as before the gear oil change the only difference i noticed was in the morning when i start my car and its cold its not notchy ( as opposed to the old gear oil in the car ). Lastly um i honestly dont know if this is how its supposed to be but like i mentioned earliar its towards the back of the tranny that is leaking mostly and wet.(when i say leaking i mean it looks rly wet, my pic will explain this babbling) I could see its the bushing right above the flex section on the ypipe, it looks a lil ripped/old. Now when i looked underneath my car while my friend in the car was moving the shifter just left and right not in and outa gear, i noticed that rear bushing was moving too as he was moving the shifter from inside the car...is this how the design is or is maybe something loose..possibly causing the leak.

sorry for the long explanation guys but i hate to not mention the little details because i feel like they matter the most and any little thing i fail to mention could seriously affect the diagnosis, for the most part the car feels driveable but i dont wana slowly keep hurting it until i need a new tranny.

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://img513.imageshack.us/i/20101202144531522.jpg/

<a target='_blank' title='ImageShack - Image And Video Hosting' href='http://img513.imageshack.us/i/20101202144531522.jpg/'><img src='http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/9430/20101202144531522.jpg' border='0'/></a>

Uploaded with <a target='_blank' href='http://imageshack.us'>ImageShack.us</a>

 

As far as the clutch is concerned, check where it mounts. I think 2 people have had the metal wear out where the pedal mounts, and it sounds like that might be happening to you. I don't know the specifics on those bushings though.

 

This bushing is the gear selector dust boot there is also a seal behind that dust boot. It does tend to wear out and leak.

As for the button behind the clutch. I have clutch switch by passed mine as I have a compustar alarm with remote start and turbo timer built into the system. Before someone tries to flame me for by passing the clutch switch. It is safe becuase my remote start will not start unless certain steps were done to the alarm to set up for remote start. Like it has a neutral safety sensing final ebrake sensing. basically I have to pull into where I am going to park. Take my foot off the brake pedal while clutch is depressed or car is in neutral pull and set ebrake remove key from ignition car starts it's turbo time count down once I open door get out and close it. Then sets itself up for remote start. Best dang alarm company I've ever seen.

 

I don't think there is anything wrong with the switch, but a problem with his clutch. If it isn't hitting the switch somethings up.

 

Thanks gunther, I was thinking to myself that I bet this doesn't rly happen to everyone cuz I never read really read anything similiar to this in any old threads.

Ah thanks elusive, do you think that greasyness/leak is causing what's happening with me? Is that a big job to do..or pretty much at this point its signs of the tranny going..=/?

 

The leak is coming from the striking rod oil seal part # 30401G. You can order a new one from Courtesy like I did for $9.26. The boot is #32859 for $6.24. Replace those and your set for the leak. actually all you need is the seal but you might as well replace the boot while your at it.

 

Check for metal shavings in the gear oil. If there is none then you should be alright. But low gear oil probably contributed to your issue.

 

alright cool thanks, you think after replacing this I should get some smoother shifting or all that's gonna happen is ima have a clean tranny surface.

You see the thing is I changed my gear oil bout a month ago and before that for literally a year it was superrrrrrr fine not a problem at all, but that day when I went to check I stuck my finger in and I didn't get any oil on my finger like it was rly low but I didn't thnk of checking the gear oil for any shavings cuz I kinda jus put it in an old dirty bucket, tho the gear oil itself looked rly clean as if I didn't even need to change it but in fact jus add a lil more.( I rly jus wanted to try redline gear oil ) After the change for about 3 weeks it was literally the same xact car THEN all this clutch b.s started to happen and in turn slightly harder shifting/ some grinding noises sometimes puttin it into gear...idk guys wut ya thnk?

Is it possible I abused my clutch so much in the past year that its not fully working properly or I guess engaging which wldnt let the shifter go into gear smoother? My stock clutch was replaced with a duralast one when I changed my tranny durin the same time last year. I was thinking cld I have abused the clutch enough for it to jus be harder to shift but not actually enough abuse to harm the tranny? Cuz honestly in the past few days I've noticed that the closer I push my clutch down to the point where it let's you shift

 

alright cool thanks, you think after replacing this I should get some smoother shifting or all that's gonna happen is ima have a clean tranny surface.

You see the thing is I changed my gear oil bout a month ago and before that for literally a year it was superrrrrrr fine not a problem at all, but that day when I went to check I stuck my finger in and I didn't get any oil on my finger like it was rly low but I didn't thnk of checking the gear oil for any shavings cuz I kinda jus put it in an old dirty bucket, tho the gear oil itself looked rly clean as if I didn't even need to change it but in fact jus add a lil more.( I rly jus wanted to try redline gear oil ) After the change for about 3 weeks it was literally the same xact car THEN all this clutch b.s started to happen and in turn slightly harder shifting/ some grinding noises sometimes puttin it into gear...idk guys wut ya thnk?

Is it possible I abused my clutch so much in the past year that its not fully working properly or I guess engaging which wldnt let the shifter go into gear smoother? My stock clutch was replaced with a duralast one when I changed my tranny durin the same time last year. I was thinking cld I have abused the clutch enough for it to jus be harder to shift but not actually enough abuse to harm the tranny? Cuz honestly in the past few days I've noticed that my clutch is becoming slightly stiffer, like when I'm pushing all the way down where it wld normally let me shift into gear, it feels as if its actually NOT all the way down like a quarter of an inch or w.e. But I thnk like its enough to allow it to go into gear but not fully enough because I sometimes get a lil grinding.

Like I said it doesn't feel like a MAJOR issue but I do feel like something is going to act up soon cuz its feelin a lil fishy( its my d.d I drove it today it felt a lil better but only bcuz I'm babying putting it into gear I believe )

Thanks again guys

 

This might sound funny, but did you look up underneath your dash where the clutch pedal is mounted to the dash?

There is a metal bracket under there and the clutch pedal is bolted to that via a welded nut.

Here is my story, so you know where I am going with this:

I bought my car from my brother, who is about 6-4, 290 pounds. He played college football, really big and strong. He managed to push the clutch in hard enough to break the bolt off and bend some of the metal.

When I first bought the car from him, he hadn't been driving it because he thought there was something wrong with the clutch. I actually thought maybe it had a bad slave cylinder (talking with him over the phone about the symptoms). The clutch pedal was very soft at the top and it wouldn't engage until nearly at the floor. It would grind going between 1-2 and 2-3. Sometimes it wouldn't start because the pedal wouldn't hit the switch. It was slightly crooked.

Anyway, I couldn't figure out how to get it to work right, so I paid a guy that does metal fabrication to rebuild it from underneath and handed him an entire new clutch pedal bracket. It has been a while, but I think he charged me $50 or $100 to fix it. He put a new nut system on there and made an extra brace to be sure it doesn't happen again. I went and looked at it and now I can't remember exactly what part it was, but look at the bolts that hold he clutch pedal bracket in place.

 

I'm going to go with a broken upper clutch pedal mount as well. Either the bolt broke or is loose, or the physical bracket on which the bolt threads into is broken. The latter happened to me and I had to take the whole dash apart and fabricate a new metal bracket, and then I tack welded the pedal to it just for good measure.

If you look straight up under the dash the common bolt/mount that breaks is the very top one. Literally at the top of the clutch pedal assembly.

Your first issue with the creaking/plastic breaking was likely just the little plastic striker on the pedal that hits the clutch switch (ie it broke so it no longer engages the switch - very common particularly on Hondas)

Your leaking tranny via the strike rod seal is a separate issue. Not a huge deal bit it will continue to slowly get worse. Obviously you want to monitor it so that you don't run the case dry

 

Picture after my repair

 

I hope you still have some Redline left over. Cause your gonna need it

 

Oh wow sounds exactly what was happening with me, thanks for the story def gave me better insight

I did check by the clutch but the thing is, TO ME everythng seems normal it doesn't rly looked like what your talking about broke off, idk you tell me these are the best pics I cld take.

Ah I see, I mean I thnk cliff clavin kinda answered my question alrdy but would this clutch issue create this sudden decrease of smoothness in shifting and increase in tranny chatter/grind? It just doesn't seem right to me it happened right after this clutch b.s that leak isn't any worse then before.

Could the smoothness of shifting rly be effected if let's say I feel my clutch is going down 95% instead of all the way in 100%. In other words its down enough for me to gently guide/wiggle it into gear but not enough to go in as easy as it was before anything of this happened to me a few weeks ago.

 

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...155704659.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...155605163.jpg/

 

That nut right above that spring.. Check it with a socket and see if it's loose. The metal on mine that the nut screws into completely broke apart. The nut was just sitting in there.

But yes if that nut is loose, or if any other part of the pedal assembly is loose it will definitely make it mire difficult to go into gear.

When mine broke it almost stranded me.. it was stuck in 3rd gear and thankfully I was able to baby it home. It literally wouldn't go it into any other gear at all. A few days leading up to this point it was getting difficult to go into gear.

If the pedal assembly isn't broken/bad, check your physical shift linkage. The fluid issue, while still not ideal, wouldn't make it so hard or prevent you from getting it into gear (ie you can still go into all gears even with a dry tranny)

 

Oh wow thanks a ton james, I'm gonna check that out asap. I was almost starting to think something unique was going on or somthing inexaplanable via online but it makes me feel better that you went thru the samething ( no offence lol ) also seems like you went through jus about everything hah

But yeah I think I'm in those days leading up to it leaving me stranded currently cuz I feel it gradually worsening, kinda like what you said you were goin thru.

How would I check the shift linkage where would that be..?

Honestly I always always thought what makes it so easy to go into gear was the actual gear oil, an empty case would feel the same as one filled with gear oil? Or itl go into gear, jus not as smooth.

 

Yeah you can put the tranny into any gear with no oil but it won't be smooth by any means. I mean you definitely want the oil in there, it's just that lack of oil won't prevent it from going in gear

By shift linkage I mean physically check the two under car bars that go to the tranny. Make sure the one that bolts to the transmission up near the axle hole isn't loose or something

 

ah alright I understand wut you mean now.

Gotcha, ill get on checkin that asap hope its not the culprit tho

 

Your 3rd gen wiring condition is immaculate. Looks fresh out of the factory. Whats your secret?

Btw, you guys don't think this issue has to do with that leaking striking rod seal that was mentioned earlier and very visible in his pic? I think thats all it is. His clutch feels just as sturdy as it always did. Just goes into gear a bit rough as of late. When the guy replaced his gear oil last month, he claimed he was low on gear oil, and he might be again.

 

I really don't think it's JUST a low gear oil issue because it shouldn't cause these symptoms he described:

"Its hard to put it in first and second, also sometimes when I put it in third , even tho my clutch is all the way down i get that feeling when you try to put it in gear when the clutch ISNT all the way down, like that grinding noise."

Those are symptoms of the clutch not being fully engaged/disengaged - which would have to be either an issue with the clutch pedal (not being connected at the top allowing the pedal to move sideways just a bit when pushed in - which is enough to make your car not able to go into ANY gear as I stated in my recollection of it), shift linkage issues (loose, bushings worn so bad it allows for too much play), or a TOB issue (I've had the tabs on mine break right off)

The low gear oil IS an issue, but it shouldn't cause those problems. Low or no gear oil should cause a kind of "bucking" feel from the transmission while it's in gear driving.

Of course, these definitions are all relative. "Hard to put in first or second" to Moe could just be "notchy" to someone else - which could be the result of cheap/wrong tranny fluid, etc. so alot of this is hard to say definitively over the interwebz.

Best bet is to check the pedal mount, check the shift linkage, etc.

Still want to fix the strike rod seal though. I've had a leak MUCH worse than that before (for like over a year) and had the transmission dangerously low on oil and had no issues with getting it in gear or grinding.

 

Awright, thanks James. We'll check the mounting bolts for the clutch pedal, and the steering linkages when we get the chance. Maybe his hydraulic system could use a rebleed?

The car definitly does buck sometimes if left in 2nd and not giving enough throttle. Just saying.

 

Thanks for the advice james, we checked out the pedal mount today. The bolt right above the spring you talked about wasn't loose at all pretty much. The bolt adjacent to it tho was a tad loose but didn't do much to help me.

We both noticed that where the bolt attaches up to is kinda not attached on the other side. Sorta like how you mentioned that your bolt was just floating but the bracket itself wasn attached seems the same way on mine but your pic shows a sever gap and the weld area seems large. Atm mine doesn't seem TOO bad, there's a minimal gap and with a lil patience and the right touch It can get me around pretty nicely.

I'm a lil worried tho cause I don't like to fool around with clutch/tranny issues, my question is can/should I still drive around like this for the time being cause the amount of work I believe involved to take out the whole dash and then bring it to someone to weld or jus have someone take off the dash themselves and then weld wld jus simply be too time consuming/costly for me now esp since I work all the time and overhauling my suspension atm BUT I don't wana hurt my tranny if having to jiggle/wiggle it into gear or slight grinding occasionally is harmful.

Should I expect a to get stranded soon? Or I'm not rly lookin at such a bad case from what I'm telling you. Its my dd, pretty much rely on it to&from work I also didn't check out the physical linkages as you recommended just yet but I'm like 95% sure the pedal assembly is the culprit(recalling now I did mash my clutch pedal hard a few times thnking it wld help start the car earliar when I realized, too late apparently, it wasn't reaching that black button). Thing is I'm rly lookin to drive my car comfortably this upcoming spring but I don't know exactly what's involved..does the whole dash have to come out, are their are shortcuts or ne tips you know of, I was told the dash removal is like a 3+ hr job alone and that's for someone that knows what they're doing..was this a ***** for you james?

 

Now that I think about it, maybe we can do away with just removing the bottom part of the dash like I originally thought. Also get that black air tube out of the way where your knees go. Might make enough room

 

Well, if I'm reading correctly the stuff highlighted in bold it seems your problem is exactly what happened to me. The bolt itself isn't loose because it's still bolted into the nut that is welded to the back of the mount. But the whole "plate" of metal that the nut is welded to is completely broken out - rendering it useless.

To be sure, take that bolt above the spring out (if you're even able to - mine would just spin and spin because it wasn't attached to any perimeter material), then use a screwdriver or something to poke at the metal bracket and see if it's loose/free-floating/whatever.

Unfortunately, that's pretty much a worst-case scenario. I'm surprised you haven't gotten stranded yet, to be honest, though I suppose it's possible to baby it and be able to drive that way indefinitely (but I won't guarantee that ).

When I repaired that bracket, the pedal assembly didn't even want to line up anymore because it was tweaked over to the right. I guess the metal had been fatiguing over months and months before it fully broke, and I had to bend it over to where it should have been then hold it and weld it.

Taking the dash out isn't hard at all and certainly isn't a 3 hour job, though. You can get it out in about a half hour. Just make sure to hold onto all the screws/nuts.

The hardest part was repairing the bracket. At first I tried to do it with just some self-tapping screws. I cut a strip of metal, used two self-tapping screws to secure it to front of the remaining bracket (you can see my two holes left over), and then hammered it around to "form" it around the remaining part of the bracket. When I realized I had no way of securing my "patch" other than the two front screws, I then just welded the parts I could access. The problem is that even without the dash in there, there's not much room on the sides to get to it like you'd want. And I wasn't able to get the back of it done very well due to complete lack of room (you can see my strip of metal kind of hanging off the back because I couldn't reach it).

BUT if your bracket isn't COMPLETELY broken out like mine was (as in, if there's any viable metal around that bolt hole), then you can just put a few self-tapping screws through the pedal assembly into the bracket (several other guys on here were able to do that). I wasn't able to do that since the whole area on mine was broken out.

 

My bracket was bent pretty good. That's why it was crooked and wouldn't touch the switch.

When I had mine done, I got a new clutch pedal assembly from Felton's up in Seattle. I don't know how hard it is to find a good clutch pedal assembly. I also don't know if there is any difference between one from a VG and one from a VE.

 

Yeah man I wld def wana tackle that before my bday lol but it seems like even with the dash out not much room to work with, maybe the self tapping screw trick wld work.

Lol honestly I been driving it like that for 2 weeks now, me and ve were even comtemplating waitin it out till the summer but honestly the way you put it, it seems like I still have a chance before its completely out and prevent me from going into gear. That's a freakin awesome idea with the self tappin screws I honestly was thinking something along those lines but I figured welding was a must but id be a happy man if this works and I get normal shifting again.

Is it pretty much as simple as that? Go right through the pedal assembly nd hit that bracket?( the upper metal piece where its welded to the bottom pedal assembly in your pic) it should be a nice solid feel afterwards huh, I'm excited..lol hope it doesn't blow up in my face!

 

Thanks James, we'll see what what we can do. Reason why I told him 3 hours is because thats how long it would take me to get the Ford/Lincoln dash boards off at work back in the day when we would replace the heater cores on them. I just assumed it was a crap load of work just like those Town Cars were and pretty much every other dash I removed. Still don't see us doing this in 30 minutes though.

 

Oh btw wld u recommend me takin off the dash to get a nice screw job going or its not nessecary, also a couple inch long screws shld b jus fine =) thanks

 

Well, if you have viable material around that nut to put some self tapping screws in there then no you don't need to remove the dash. But you need to determine first how viable the metal is. Like I said on mine the whole underside/mating section of my bracket was completely broken out so I couldn't do the self tapping screws thing, which is why I had to remove the dash to rebuild it.

It all depends on how viable that material is so you'll have to poke around on it. The best thing to do would be to remove the clutch pedal assembly (you can do this with the dash in place) so you can see the underside of that bracket in it's entirety. Without doing that it's really kind of a guessing game

 

Any update?

 

He currently lost internet access, but we are planning on figuring something out there very soon.

 

yah sry bro lost my cool org phone lol thanks for the concern tho..um honestly i kept driving the car with the lil bit of wiggle and jiggle action goin on with the shifter but it hasnt gotten any worse sometimes it actually even feels back to normal its almost smooth again..but i just havent gotten around to taking the assembly off to throw in some self tappers were gonna tackle that this weekend hopefully

tho my heater core has been progessivly acting up so now i rly cant drive the car because the windshield gets rly foggy and when i try to use the heat or even put on the fan control i get a cool greenish smoke coming out of my vents and nice waffle syrup smell

 

so it been maybe 3 months or so since ive been driving around with my clutch disengaging at like 95% and the rest ill wiggle and mingle with my hand (shifter) till..today im stranded yet again in the city after work! Now out of no where i hear some clutch crackling and literally it was IMPOSSIBLE to put it into gear i have no idea how i managed to pull out of traffics way, but i did to further diagnosis the problem.

i turned my car off and tried shifting and it was butter. as soon as the car is on and i try shifting, it wouldnt budge a milimeter...my only options were either try to drive home in first gear at extremely low rpm ( i would put it into 1st while off then start my car wit the clutch engaged ) or finally getting around to just drilling the dam thing..i was extremelyyyyyyy afraid i exhuasted the crap outa that pedal assembly were the selp tapping screw trick would be pointless but i freakin did it miraciously..james u r the man lol threw some self tappers in there and INSTANTLY i could feel the assembly was really sturdy.

but omg...ive never felt smoother shifting like wow..i think that probllem has always been there but didnt rise to the occassion till a few months ago..cuz even wen i replaced my clutch a year ago ive never felt shifting like this..i def think its the self tapping screw + redline gear oil combo

regardless it feels aweome to drivve the ve again..it was becoming really wack to have to try so hard to move around..its so effortless now i feel like i have an auto lol thanks dude

 

lol to my last post...its been a couple of months later now and its time to bite the bullet. I removed the dash yesterday and after removing the driver side vents I could see the bracket finally. After re reading what you guys wrote (cliff/james) im getting the feeling that I have to do more then just weld? You guys talk about refabbing and making a new assembly or what not. I brang it to a couple of shops today ( the one I was recommended and was told could weld ANYTHING was closed =/ ) and after looking at what I needed to be done they were turned off at the idea it was in the interior around all these wires and interior stuff that could catch on fire from the sparks.

Also it looks like you removed all that sound deadening stuff i believe around that area should I prepare it the sameway? Hopefully when I go on monday the recommended welder will be able to help me out without getting to scared =(

 

these are some pics of what my paticular situation looks like. As you can see as a temporary fix I gave James' theory a shot which was a huge help(self tapping screw). Am I pretty much done here to just hand over to welder? It seems a little tight to do a good weld job, can i just cover the surrounding area with a blanket or somethin so nothing catches on fire and the guy is worry free?

I know its easier to weld if i remove that long beam going across but the thing is I have to actually drive to the welder and I dont think I could drive around with a lowered steering column?? Unless I remove the beam outide his shop or somthing...idk help is dramatically appreciated guys my cars outa commission now and reallyyy need it for work thank again!

http://imageshack.us/g/153/1311972033831.jpg/

 

I really think you're underestimating your own ability here to problem solve. You're also making this way more difficult than it needs to be. There's no way we can give you direct directions via the internet for your particular repair. You've got it torn apart and can see what needs to be done, so you just need to - for lack of better words - get it done.

I'd bet most shops probably won't touch this, actually. Not that they can't do it - and in actuality this is seriously a simple job - but they don't want the liability, especially if you don't want to break it down more to give them more clearance. That fuse box and wiring can be moved out of the way some if you're so inclined. Plus, any welder should have a welding blanket to cover the rest of the stuff up like I did in my picture.

You don't have any friends/family members that can weld?

Yes you'll need to remove the sound deadening so you can see/get to the area better.

Break that sound deadening out for a better view of the mount. Also, the part that is the issue is the section of the mount that faces the floor and sits flush with the clutch pedal assembly. Until you remove the clutch pedal assembly for a better view, you won't really know what exactly you've got to work with (and of course neither do we), so there's really no way for us to give you any guidance or tips.

But yes the welder will want to use a blanket to at least cover the carpet and whatnot.

The beam isn't hard to remove. If you needed to you can just do it outside of the shop. But again, you still don't even know what exactly you've got to work with since you haven't removed the clutch pedal to inspect the mount. And conversely, any shop you take this to also won't have any real idea of what to expect until or unless you inspect the affected bottom section of that pedal mount bracket.

 

ah ha..i think this is why i take the time to make myself look like a fool..lol alright honestly forgive me but I wasnt even aware the clutch assembly had to be removed...I dont think I've stopped to even look to how exactly its removed but regardless i'd have to do that outside the shop no..? (because I cant drive to the welder with it off..duh) This whole time I kinda just thought since the assembly was still somewhat attached to the mount that he would just fortify it by welding it..thus having a sturdy pedal.. But yeah I get you as far as everything else.

yeah i really dont mean to come off that way like i cant help myself but its not really me thats the problem its explaining to these idiots what exactly needs to be done..to them( brooklyn welders ) they literally have no freakin idea what or why im having them weld it..they NEVER encountered such a problem..even if i take the time to explain 1) they dont wana hear it they jus wana do it nd take money 2) its goes right through one ear and out the other 3) they dont give a sh*t if its done right or wrong the first time...which is RLY what my concern is.. i guess its cause i thought I was just going to hand it over to them..point at the issue and they were just going to start welding it together...i didnt wana find out after it didnt help my shifting at all and im stuck with a wrongly welded assembly to mount.

BUT that was kinda news to me =/ to remove the assembly nd see what exactly im working with becuz i wasnt even thinking of removing those screws yet let alone taking the assembly off because..those screws are whats allowing me to barely drive.

I know you probably have this in mind already but mainly this ordeal has been a hastle is cuz its different out here I dont have my own area to work on my car or welders around me to drive my car jus down the block. I removed my dash nd got to that right on the street, with cars passing by every 2 seconds.. I put all that dash stuff right in my rear seats.left my car overnight on the street lookin like some1 ripped into it lookin for diamonds behind my dash or somthin lol. This morning I was driving around a couple miles from my house goin from welder to welder getting opinions. Idk if that isnt really a big deal to some of you orgers but the reason I say this is because I get the feeling sometimes that it may be easier for guys like you and other crafty 3rd genners because you guys have a remote area to work on..garage..tools..skills-confident welding trade . It also just comes off you guy(s) are more mechanically skilled then I am, so things that may seem obvious and out there from your eyes.. arent really clicking in my head . Im still young & veryy eager to lear basically so i hope i havent pushed your patience.


alright cool ill keep that in mind, this welder I was recommended i was told is the guru of welding here in Bk so monday morn ill give it a shot.

I wish =/..fams in the food bizz..im the one making a break for car world.





.



Alright i see so do you recommend I just remove it while Im at the shop? and go from there..since I wont be able to drive it newhere idk doesnt make sense to do it to see what I have then put it back on nd go to the welder.

 

How is it that you've been driving all these months like this?