I think I have a few of these nailed down but I figured I'd ask all at once and get some input to see if I'm on the right trail. For the last two I have no idea, trying to hunt them down for weeks.

1) On cold startup the car will sometimes come close to stalling immediately after but does not. After driving for 15 minutes the issue persists but isn't quite as bad. The only change has been the GAB mod and a K&N drop in 3 weeks ago. I'm almost positive it's the MAF needing a cleaning (thanks Scott!) but if that fails would TBs be next to try?

2) I have a long, sweeping right turn onramp I drive every morning and the car seems to be bumpy/vibrating on this turn. It's not the pavement (smooth as silk in other cars). On regular turns I can't seem to feel it. I'm thinking ball joints but open to other ideas.

3) Seemingly randomly I get a slight "clunk" sound from the passenger side (I think rear, not sure) when coming to a stop at an intersection. Actually, it's a bit higher pitched than a clunk but not quite a tap if that makes any sense No idea on this one but I can't see anything on visual inspection.

4) This is really minor and a longshot given how varied rattles can be but I figured I'd ask. I have this annoying ticking/tapping coming from my instrument cluster area on the right side, just under the temp gauge. I've removed all the plastic/panels I can find over there, the gauges themselves, checked for loose bolts, etc. Oddly enough if I press hard on the face of the gauge cluster while driving the noise drastically reduces but doesn't go away. Any ideas?

Beyond these minor things, the car has been a dream to drive and I'm so glad I decided to stay in the Nissan family. Any input at all is appreciated

 

1)
-clean your MAF with the proper cleaner spray.
-clean your TB with the Sea Foam Spray called Deep Creep.
-check fuel pressure, your pump my be getting tired.

2)
-get your tire balanced. if it is out of balance, and your struts have a lot of miles you will notice the shimmy when the strut has to put less downforce on the spindle.
-check your tie rod ends for a good snug fit.
-check the lower control arm ball joint with a pry bar for any play.
-sometimes the vibration in these cars starts with the axle...if your Max is dropped.
-check your motor mounts; if you're turning right the engine & trans want to slide left causing your passenger axle to pull on the CV joints till the inner rotating bearing hits the snap ring. If your motor and trans mounts are dried up and cracking it can contribute to your vibration.

3)
-check your rear solid axle bushings and bolts. They are in front of both rear tires.

4)
-Duct Tape, lol! no clue there, maybe someone else can shed some light on that for ya

Glad to hear you are staying in the NISSAN family!

 

Excellent feedback, thanks! Snagged some MAF cleaner on the way home tonight and I'll check out Deep Creep tomorrow. It's probably just the sensor but I've got backups now. As for #2, I recently had the tires replaced (wear) and it persisted but I think you might have nailed it with motor mounts. There's definitely play there and they look original at 120k! Trans looked newer but I'll grab it too.

Lastly, thanks for the tip on #3. A starting point is exactly what I needed

 

For #3, the other thing I'd check is for slop in the way the rear calipers or brake pads are mounted. That's usually more of a click, but if one of the stainless guides the pads slide on is worn or fell out, it could get louder.

 

Check your muffler for the rear clunk, could be hitting something. I know mine does, need to drop the muffler out of the hangers and see exactly where.

 

Awesome ideas for #3 guys, thanks! Got an emergency work call today but I'll try to check this weekend.

 

#1 I also have the same problem and for sure its was the MAF sensor, I did a cleaning but it was still giving me the same issue so I needed to buy a new one the run 169 f.y.i.

 

There are thousands of millions of threads on here about the 5th gen MAFs. Our (the forum's) parts guy at Courtesy Nissan in TX hooks ORGers up for ~$90.

@Seedy: I just got your name and started laughing. Nice. How shot are your engine mounts? They tend to make clunks at inappropriate times, mayhaps the deceleration is strong enough to knock the metal against more metal if the bushings are gone. Just something else to check. My passenger side mount knocks in ways that I sometimes suspect as being random.

 

I tried to get one of these 90 MAF's and I had no luck. I asked for dave and everything WTF

 

You have to ask for the 200-2001 MAF and then replace the thermistor(sp?) yourself. And DaveB is also in Texas, but at Southpoint Nissan in Austin. Not at Courtesy. People somehow keep making this mistake.

 

Excellent, will do tomorrow. I had cleaned it once about a week after the K&N/GAB, probably should have stayed on it.

Haha yeah, it goes right over most people until they say it out loud. Regarding the mounts, the motor moves front/rear quite a bit when power-braking the engine. Those and the side do look original, though not totally destroyed. Either way they need to go. If I'm lucky those will fix multiple issues and save me a few bucks

 

I just got it. That's funny.

I think Scott's advice about the exhaust knocking is good. I used to have passenger-side mystery knocks on hard acceleration. It was the exhaust. Problem went away after installing ES bushings in the engine torque mounts.

 

*****! I do keep making that mistake. I'll try harder to remember this time.

 

Did some work on the Max today and decided to followup!

1) Stalling: Cleaned the MAF and the problem appears to be gone. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning on cold start but logic says this was the likely cause.

2) Slight vibration on turning: Verified the lower control arm ball joint is fine, no excessive play. Tires are also good and not out of balance. Motor mounts are definitely shot but can't do those until next week. I'm confident that will fix it.

3) Clunk on stopping: It appears to have been the muffler. I wasn't hanging as secure as it could be so I had it re-hung at a local shop and I can kick it without jiggling all over. Drove for an hour and didn't hear it once. Great call Scott!

4) Tapping/Noise near instrument cluster: Well this one I fixed by jamming a folded rag behind that part of the panel because no amount of hunting down loose bolts/clips found anything.

However, I may have made a big mistake diagnosing this one. I took the cluster out entirely and went for a drive to see if I could see where the noise was coming from. Apparently you are not supposed to do this because it threw a bunch of SES light codes and the car would sputter under acceleration. I was totally not expecting this. I managed to clear the codes using Studman's guide (search, it rocks) but I'm hoping I didn't do any other damage. If someone can calm my fears I'd appreciate it.

 

I have an exhaust knock/rattle, appears to be the rubber hangers on the muffler are worn out and allowing excessive movement. They don't appear to be nearly as solid as they were on my other car. Guess I will pick up a new set and see if that fixes it.

 

you can always do the cheap-o hose clamp method of tightening them. Worked for me and cost me about 2.00 to do it(for sturdy hose clamps). I think i used something like 5-8" hose clamps .

 

I wouldnt ever drive any car with the cluster removed...even though you cleared the codes. disconnect your negative terminal and let the car rest for 15 mins, then reconnect, start it, let it idle for 15 mins, then take her for a quick spin! I hope that helps

 

Thanks for the response, I'll do that. I figured the only danger was in lacking warning/safety gauges so I just went around the block carefully. This is the newest vehicle I've owned so I take it these heavy electrical/OBDII cars really have big issues with that