Rear trailing arms made more rigid
Rear trailing arms made more rigid
I had the RSB first prior to making the RSTB. The RSB def helped. HOnestly i think it helped more than the RSTB. But i added the RSTB as well due to thinking if i can try to tie all areas of the body and frame together it would make it that much more stable and fun to drive.
Kinda look at it this way. YOu take a card board box and on the bottom you take all the flaps and fold them under to get that star like effect the box will hold items in it no problem. It will also be somewhat rigid. But now improve on that by putting that 2 inch wide tape to hold everything together and the box will hold much more, be more rigid and have less areas for the cardboard to be displaced due to the star effect and tape holding everything together.
Another area i think would help out is it we were able to cut off our existing trailing arms. The trailing arms we have i think def flex under load. Take some tubular or round steel bars and weld them to the rear axle, have the part of the bar (where the trailing arm bushings go) that is mounted to the body fabbed up to hold the bushings and be the proper length. Then you would have another rigid attachment point.
If you have ever looked under a fox body mustang or Chevelle or GTO or any type of 4 link system that has upper and lower trailing arms, the factory stuff is swapped out for more rigid, sturdy units
Comparison stock mustang trailing arms vs aftermarket
2010 camaro comparison of stock vs BMR trailing arms
If we could do something like this, although it would need to be cut off and welded to the rear end then bolted to the body, i think it would be a huge dif
Kinda look at it this way. YOu take a card board box and on the bottom you take all the flaps and fold them under to get that star like effect the box will hold items in it no problem. It will also be somewhat rigid. But now improve on that by putting that 2 inch wide tape to hold everything together and the box will hold much more, be more rigid and have less areas for the cardboard to be displaced due to the star effect and tape holding everything together.
Another area i think would help out is it we were able to cut off our existing trailing arms. The trailing arms we have i think def flex under load. Take some tubular or round steel bars and weld them to the rear axle, have the part of the bar (where the trailing arm bushings go) that is mounted to the body fabbed up to hold the bushings and be the proper length. Then you would have another rigid attachment point.
If you have ever looked under a fox body mustang or Chevelle or GTO or any type of 4 link system that has upper and lower trailing arms, the factory stuff is swapped out for more rigid, sturdy units
Comparison stock mustang trailing arms vs aftermarket
2010 camaro comparison of stock vs BMR trailing arms
If we could do something like this, although it would need to be cut off and welded to the rear end then bolted to the body, i think it would be a huge dif
Since I do custom metal working I have been seriously considering this, I was wanting some more input from other frum members with there thoughts,Pros and con's on the situation, I also dont have either one of my max's with me this week so I need some measure ments on the length and height of the stock trailing arm in order to pick up some steel from the steel warehouse.
I think if this would work good it would take out alot of the sway, and also matched with possibly a panhard bar would make the cars stick to the road like glue, What are your thoughts?
I think you should leave the trailing arms alone on these cars. they're designed with flex in them because of the way the rear beam is designed. it's all one big spring.
adding a panhard bar is a fine idea. cutting off the factory trailing arms and attaching something so the flexible arms can't flex= not a fine idea.
adding a panhard bar is a fine idea. cutting off the factory trailing arms and attaching something so the flexible arms can't flex= not a fine idea.
Its called a semi-independent twist beam for a good reason. If I was to change anything it would be to bend the ends of the beam 20deg and relocate the mounts for better lateral control. Or.. taken from straightline "The forward pivot bushings are angled so they're not parallel with the beam itself, a move that helps the bushings manage the conflicting need for high lateral stiffness during cornering and soft fore-aft compliance to absorb harsh road impacts"
Volt uses this method.
Volt uses this method.
BTW, next week we are coming out with offset rear bushings made of Delrin. They are offset .2" to improve lateral stiffness.
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
BTW, next week we are coming out with offset rear bushings made of Delrin. They are offset .2" to improve lateral stiffness.
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
BTW, next week we are coming out with offset rear bushings made of Delrin. They are offset .2" to improve lateral stiffness.
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
Cost will be $49 www.2j-racing.com
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doctorpullit
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Sep 10, 2015 06:33 PM