I've been running Penzoil Premium Synthetic 5-30wt. in my Max for the last 16,000 miles (changed every 4000 miles). I would typically have to add 2 qts between changes, so roughly 1/2 qt per 1000 miles.

At 99,000 miles I changed the oil and put in 10-40 dino oil. The oil I used was valvoline MaxLife. I live in So Calif so 10-40 should not be a big deal here. I have put a tad over 1600 miles on it since the oil change, and it appears that it has burned just a cup or so of oil. The oil line on the dipstick was not down even 1/4 of the way.

I don't trust that measurement totally, so I will report back when I change the oil again in about 1300 miles (going to do it every 3000 with dino oil). One thing I have noticed, is that with dino oil the oil gets dirtier looking faster.

 

Makes sense, Thicker oil = less burning. Sucks that it burns so much though with such little mileage.

 

Thats nothin. I have 80k and I burn more then 2qts in about 2k miles. I'm putting thicker in now ans its helping ALOT.

 

i did the home depot catch can. my car does not eat no more oil through pcv vavle

 

I never saw putting molasses into your engine as a "solution" for oil-burning.

 

Getting my other car totaled and ending up with another 5.5 gen ended my oil burning problem.

 

IBsum1readsthisasasuggestionncommitsinsurancefraud

 

I thought using the 04+ valve cover gaskets solves the oil burning problem?

 

 

Thanks trooplewis for posting your trial here......What about car performance and any other observations on the engine ? like rattle , smoothness etc... I'm also thinking to switch to 10w40.....

 

lol think about what you're talking about and the use of the valve cover...if anything it'd prevent more seeping of the oil, not burning.

 

Sorry I meant the valve covers themselves. For some it reduced the burning significantly, for others, not so much.

http://www.netcrafting.com/car_mx/pathfinder/oil.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...em-please.html

 

Luck you Scott....hehe. Mine has never burned oil since it was new with 15 miles on it, now has 116k.

 

OP, just wondering have you check or change the rear valve cover?

 

Since the other driver was arrested with a .216 BAC, that's not going to happen.

 

Seems to be the luck of the draw with the oil consumption situation. I'm just very happy that I got a long straw.

 

Of course you deserve that Scott! I just wasn't sure the other poster knew that background story.

 

My 02 easily burn over a quart ever 2k or so.

 

I am now 1800 miles into the oil change, and have added 1/2 qt total. Much better than before. As to the "molasses" remark, ok kiddy. Guess you don't remember the days when 30 wt was your only choice. 10-40wt is a great blend for So Calilf driving where it never gets under 30 degress and frequently gets over 100.

The valve covers have nothing to do with the oil burning issues. If it was that simple, Nissan would have spent the $40 on them instead of replacing engines....

The oil I use is Max-Life, it is a 50-50 blend of dino and synthetic oil.

 

Since my current 5.5 gen isn't using an appreciable amount of oil (a quart every 3200-3500 miles), I've been using Valvoline Max-Life 5W-30.

Unfortunately, with my other 5.5 gen, no matter what I used it burned a quart every 1500-1800 miles, lower end of that was freeway driving. Once the front valve cover started leaking, then it was a quart every 1200 miles or so. At least it never affected the spark plugs or emissions and the car felt like it was making pretty good power even with nearly 200k miles on it.

 

BTW, as a side benefit of the 10-40w oil, I no longer am getting the 1-second rattle at start-up on cold mornings. I think the 10-40 "sticks" to the cam pulleys better than the 5-30wt synthetic I was using.

 

Nope.

 

5w30 anything and a quart of Lucas does the trick for me! and virtually no cold start rattle because it sticks to the innerds when cold.

 

07 G35x= awesome non oil burning VQ

 

I am using a qt every 1k for the last 30K. I have 152k on motor and had always used Mobil 1 since I bought it used with 50K. I have switched to Castrol hi mileage 5/30 and get about 1300 miles per qt now.

This past weekend I had to change the original plugs so I decided to do the valve covers. I ordered all from Courtesy and used the 04 valve covers. It was a breeze to install. I do not think the vc will be a fix as the original valve covers were like new inside and I was almost tempted to reinstall. I had checked the PCV hose previous and did not see much in oil residue. I figured I had to take off the plenum anyway so why not try the vc fix ? I really think its a piston ring issue in all these motors.

 

...Since you're a newbie I won't verbally assault you. But, yes...that seems to be the problem. Some people have changed their valve covers with the 04 valve cover and have seen a decrease in the amount of oil they "burn". While others have seen no change. I just ordered my parts from Dave B and will be attempting this soon.

The only thing that will resolve the oil burning issue is to either buy a new engine or rebuild the one you have.

Word to the wise...try the search function. The oil burning issue is a daily topic of discussion.

 

Lucky you! I changed the rear VC, added an oil catch can, tried every kind of oil and still burn a QT every 1000 miles... I guess you are right, it's just a matter of luck...

 

it is dissapointing to see the topic changes from "less oil burning now with change of oil" to "valve cover ideas" !!!

 

I use German Castrol 0w30 in the Z.. but as stated.. HR motors don't burn oil like the prev. generation VQ35s.

Supposedly Mobil 1 5w30 is really thin.. and German Castrol 0w30 is on the thicker side.. A lot of 350z/G35 people use it (my350z, 350z-tech, G35Driver). Autozone sells it, you have to look on the back and it should say "Made in Germany"

 

That's basically what I've read, too. The mobil 5w-30 thins out over time, so not a good option for long change intervals or hard driving.

I'm using their 0w-40, now (10w and 15w is just ridiculous on startup in the winter). I think the boosted Z guys say it works really well for them.

 

Have you tried Castrol ? I use 10-30 and don't burn a drop.

 

Last oil change was Castrol 10/30, still burns about 1 qt per 3000 miles, which is better than I was doing before with 5-40 or 5-30

 

That's good improvement compared to your previous results. I didn't change my weights, which I should have tried and just went conventional (Castrol GTX 5W-30) because mine burns about 1 qt per 1000 miles.

When I pulled the rear VC recently, there was oil in one of the spark plug chambers and all up in the intake manifold. Around the edges of the front VC, there is some oil residue, but from what appears to be very slow seepage from around the gasket. I replaced and rear VC with a 6G rear VC just because I had it off, but as already noted, that's not gonna help losing 1 qt of oil per 1000 miles.

 

I'm in the same boat. I just buy the cheapest 5W30 I can find and use that every 1k. Target had a clearance on Shell's 5w30 for $2/bottle so I cleared their shelf.

Is it sad that I use one of my trip odometers to calculate my 1k intervals?

 

I made the switch to Castrol 10w40 and LOVE it. The dreaded 2k engine rattle is gone and it runs just as smooth as before. However, during the winter I could tell it took a little longer to warm up, which isn't too big of a problem for me b/c I live in GA and my house is about a mile from the main entrance of my neighborhood.

Last oil change was at the dealership b/c they offered a free oil change and they only run 5w30 (not sure what brand)… the engine rattle and oil consumption is back.

I keep forgetting to send a sample to Blackstone though. Once I do I'll post in the Fluids and Lube section.

 

You're still around here?

Please post the UOA results, I'm very curious to see how the 10W40 wears. I haven't done a UOA like I was supposed to with my GTX, but it can't be worse than my initial with Mobile 1, which supposedly does not hold up well in these engines.

 

What's that supposed to mean? I'm old??? I usually stick to stirring up trouble in OT when I'm bored at work, which has been a lot lately.

It probably won't be for another 3 months or so. I'm switching back to 10w40 next weekend (on a well deserved vacation starting tomorrow) and then I'll send a sample off. Hmmm... maybe I'll send a sample of this crappy 5w30 the dealer used and then a sample of the GTX HM 10w40 and compare.

 

We have the same join date if you haven't already noticed.

I think the comparison would be awesome, would definitely tell us a lot about the effectiveness of the heavier weight/viscosity. I think all the UOAs here, BITOG, and over at my350z are using xW30s and not 40s, but then I haven't looked at the thread recently.

 

Yeah, it's my lame attempt at humor...

From what I've read and remember they're running Syn 0w30 or Dino 5w30 (GTX seems to perform well). I never made the switch to Syn so I'm sticking it out with Dino and the w40 has worked well for me thus far since I made the switch about a year ago.

That's of course without any real comparison, just butt dyno...

 

I check mine when it gets past 800 miles

Trip comp. A is for gas and B is for oil haha