Burning a lot less oil now...
06-15-2011, 07:28 AM
#41
Also, +1 on 10w40 stopping the rattle on start-up. Just switched to it a couple hundred ago...so still need some time to see if it helped the oil burning. Manual says that 10-40 is okay down to 0 degrees F, and im sure there is some safety factor built in there.
06-16-2011, 02:34 PM
#43
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
06-16-2011, 05:27 PM
#44
New VC wasn't that difficult of an install either. DAVEB was quick to get parts to me and a How-To was posted in this 5th gen section.
Just fyi...I knew I had an oil leak there and knew I had to replace the rear VC already. I just didn't think it was the only reason I was burning oil.
Last edited by MrEous; 06-16-2011 at 05:30 PM.
06-16-2011, 07:09 PM
#46
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
Around a quart per 500? The oil was coming out of the #5 as well, leaking over the rear header.
New VC wasn't that difficult of an install either. DAVEB was quick to get parts to me and a How-To was posted in this 5th gen section.
Just fyi...I knew I had an oil leak there and knew I had to replace the rear VC already. I just didn't think it was the only reason I was burning oil.
New VC wasn't that difficult of an install either. DAVEB was quick to get parts to me and a How-To was posted in this 5th gen section.
Just fyi...I knew I had an oil leak there and knew I had to replace the rear VC already. I just didn't think it was the only reason I was burning oil.
I am also not sure if replacing the rear VC will stop my oil burning problem as your case, but knowing that yours is a success gives me hope. btw, my 2k3 currently has 209K miles. May I ask what's the mileage on your car?
Thanks
09-27-2011, 07:17 PM
#47
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Hey guys just joining. I picked up a 5.5 gen se 6mt myself about 3 weeks ago and put about 1k miles on her so far, aaaand burned a qt of oil.... damn. lol. I do have an idea from a few other cars I had that were oil burners. synthetic always burned fastest so ill stay away from that. what I've had the best luck with in my other cars was castrol GTX high mileage dino oil (10w-30) with a can of engine restore products engine restorer. found the can idea out of a car craft magazine i was reading one day. they did tests and it showed to significantly improve compression in all cylinders... worked for me so far, hope it works here in the vq35 too. I'll keep you guys posted as to how it goes. If that doesnt work I read one guy used cd2 engine treatment and that worked.
11-18-2011, 08:52 PM
#49
11-18-2011, 09:32 PM
#50
When I drove my car normal I got a little over 4 quarts out, but this last time been getting on it and about 2.5 quarts came out...my other 03 Max had a 04 Engine and low miles and like a month later some lady totals my car now another Max with oil burning issues...
11-19-2011, 11:56 PM
#51
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 14
truth be told Mobile 1 is the best for the car.....but what really stopped me from burning oil so quick was that i switched to Royal Purple! its a lil more expensive but definitely worth it. i put in 4.5 qts and im at 2600 miles and still dont need to add any at all. and almost everyone in my crew uses it as well
11-20-2011, 11:24 AM
#52
truth be told Mobile 1 is the best for the car.....but what really stopped me from burning oil so quick was that i switched to Royal Purple! its a lil more expensive but definitely worth it. i put in 4.5 qts and im at 2600 miles and still dont need to add any at all. and almost everyone in my crew uses it as well
11-20-2011, 06:34 PM
#53
Its 40w Im using now vs the 30w I was using before. Thats the difference so far. Even Amsoil 0W-30 'burned' or escaped.
11-20-2011, 11:43 PM
#55
I know.. The other guy was claming that he stopped burning because of switching to Royal Purple. I dont believe just switching brands is good enough. Its the weight of the oil that is making a difference, I just wanted to be clear what could be a solution to a big problem with some of our cars.
02-15-2012, 03:57 PM
#56
since I'm digging deeper into my pockets these days to buy more oil between changed, this thread is still relevant. I've been through all the castrol's, dino, sythetic blends, full syntec, lucas added to oil and still the same out come. Now I'm now spending more because now I've been on Royal Purple for the last couple of months. At $10 per Qt, this is burning holes in my pocket. I'm adding 1-2 Qt's every 3 weeks or so now. my oil consumption is getting worst and i'm only @ 123K.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
02-15-2012, 07:48 PM
#58
I know there has been a lot if talk about burning oil and to what degree it disappears. However, it should be noted the various leaks that this engine is probe to develop that contributes to oil loss regardless of "burning." specifically the rear upper oil pan seal, oil cooler seal, and valve covers.
02-16-2012, 12:29 AM
#59
i do know of a minor oil cooler drip once in awhile, since i park in my garage on the same spot daily. but i dont have any other leaks, all plugs are dry, valve covers are not leaking. i've had a 91 Acura Legend, with bad rings so i know what it looks like when a car is actually burning oil. But this is truely a mystery to me, dry plugs, dry engine exterior( i did wash my engine about 2 years back) no puddles on the ground from oil pan, and a dry tail pipe. after about 600 plus miles i hear the all to familiar rattling sound from my lifters, and if i ignore it, once in awhile the engine oil light will illuminate briefly.
in the 6 years since i've had this car, i changed gearbox thanks to another .org member. and replaced my ECU, which was extremely hard to come by since it's a 6 speed manual, but found one eventually at a Nissan only recyclers.
i don't know what else to do at this point, I've had cars well into the 250K mark, without any oil disappearing from the engine, this just sucks big time.
in the 6 years since i've had this car, i changed gearbox thanks to another .org member. and replaced my ECU, which was extremely hard to come by since it's a 6 speed manual, but found one eventually at a Nissan only recyclers.
i don't know what else to do at this point, I've had cars well into the 250K mark, without any oil disappearing from the engine, this just sucks big time.
02-16-2012, 03:30 AM
#60
02-16-2012, 07:24 AM
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,861
since I'm digging deeper into my pockets these days to buy more oil between changed, this thread is still relevant. I've been through all the castrol's, dino, sythetic blends, full syntec, lucas added to oil and still the same out come. Now I'm now spending more because now I've been on Royal Purple for the last couple of months. At $10 per Qt, this is burning holes in my pocket. I'm adding 1-2 Qt's every 3 weeks or so now. my oil consumption is getting worst and i'm only @ 123K.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
here's one thread about it LINK
02-16-2012, 07:41 AM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,786
since I'm digging deeper into my pockets these days to buy more oil between changed, this thread is still relevant. I've been through all the castrol's, dino, sythetic blends, full syntec, lucas added to oil and still the same out come. Now I'm now spending more because now I've been on Royal Purple for the last couple of months. At $10 per Qt, this is burning holes in my pocket. I'm adding 1-2 Qt's every 3 weeks or so now. my oil consumption is getting worst and i'm only @ 123K.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
along with that problem, my take offs are sluggish, the car hesitates and stutters a bit, unless I'm on the gas aggressively. to add insult to injury when i smash off hard, i get the rotten egg smell coming into the car windows closed or not, which i suspect the cat's are glowing red at that point.
I've been a maxima lover for years now, from my first, 85 maxima with the Digital dash, followed by my 89 super black SE 5 speed, to now my 02 SE 6 speed. This car is letting me down big time, the VG30 engines were bullet proof, but this new engine is garbage. my .02
And it seems asking the dealer, is not helpful at all, mine tells me they cant understand where the oil is going, which is BS, because researching this issue, all the dealers service managers say the same thing. Its time to move on, i have less than 3K left to pay off this money pit, and i cant wait to be free of this car.
1st, if you're burning oil that quickly, I wouldn't be using expensive oil. change to cheaper stuff until you find the problem or sell the car.
And it sounds like you have a bad cat. Punch it out or replace it.
02-16-2012, 02:31 PM
#64
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Well, I guess it's time to share my story. This is mostly for 02nismaxlegnd94. First off, stop using ridiculously expensive oil in a car that's just going to burn it off, second, which I'm sure u already know, if you're smelling rotten eggs, your cats are done for. But why this is important is because our cars have a tendency for the insides of the pre-cats to disintegrate and send shrapnel back into the motor tearing it up. The other thing is its been widely discussed and even Nissan admitted this. The main cause of our cars eating oil is the ****ty piston rings that they used in 02-03 vq35's. Good luck fixing that. If you choose to keep the car, get new cats, or headers if you want more power.
Now my story, I bought my 02 max about 7 months ago, she burned about a half quart of oil every 500 miles. Ridiculous, I was pissed etc. I've had a few cars in the past that burned oil and on those I used castrol gtx high mileage 10w30 oil, Fram oil filters, and a can of automotive restore products engine restorer w/csl. Always worked on those cars so I put it in this one about 2 weeks before I drove to Florida in November. I live in ny btw. First stop as I thought, half quart gone, refilled, then drove straight from va to fl in one trip. Checked oil, only 1/4 quart low. By the end of the 10 days I was there, again only 1/4 quart low. Refilled, drove straight home 1100 miles no overnight rest. Got home, NO OIL WAS GONE. Now months later, I did my oil change 1200 miles ago, still haven't had to add any. You can get a 5qt jug of high mileage at wal Mart for 17 bucks too.... I didn't post anything before bc I thought it was too good to be true, I still keep a 5qt jug in my trunk just in case, but the one I have now is still sealed... Now I love this car!!!! (I'd rather have a g37 but I don't have g37 money yet so max is my friend for now)
Now my story, I bought my 02 max about 7 months ago, she burned about a half quart of oil every 500 miles. Ridiculous, I was pissed etc. I've had a few cars in the past that burned oil and on those I used castrol gtx high mileage 10w30 oil, Fram oil filters, and a can of automotive restore products engine restorer w/csl. Always worked on those cars so I put it in this one about 2 weeks before I drove to Florida in November. I live in ny btw. First stop as I thought, half quart gone, refilled, then drove straight from va to fl in one trip. Checked oil, only 1/4 quart low. By the end of the 10 days I was there, again only 1/4 quart low. Refilled, drove straight home 1100 miles no overnight rest. Got home, NO OIL WAS GONE. Now months later, I did my oil change 1200 miles ago, still haven't had to add any. You can get a 5qt jug of high mileage at wal Mart for 17 bucks too.... I didn't post anything before bc I thought it was too good to be true, I still keep a 5qt jug in my trunk just in case, but the one I have now is still sealed... Now I love this car!!!! (I'd rather have a g37 but I don't have g37 money yet so max is my friend for now)
02-16-2012, 04:11 PM
#65
^^ can you tell us exactly what brand engine restore product u used? Doesn't seem to work too well on the VQ35 engine... search on google engine restore and 350z or g35 or maxima or altima... many bad experiences... you might be one of the few lucky ones...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-restore.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-restore.html
Last edited by Gizm0; 02-16-2012 at 04:23 PM.
02-16-2012, 04:29 PM
#66
I think he did.
...Now my story, I bought my 02 max about 7 months ago, she burned about a half quart of oil every 500 miles. Ridiculous, I was pissed etc. I've had a few cars in the past that burned oil and on those I used castrol gtx high mileage 10w30 oil, Fram oil filters, and a can of automotive restore products engine restorer w/csl....
02-16-2012, 04:36 PM
#67
I just wanted him to confirm. I'm surprised he had positive results and successfully stopped his car's oil consumption where everything I read about this product on internet when used on the VQ35 is negative and leads to lots of problems with the CPS
02-16-2012, 11:15 PM
#69
Thanks for the advice, but what also sucks is that i have to purchase oem Cat's from the dealer. Because the great state of California does not allow aftermarket cat's to be shipped into Cali for the Maxima.
I did the research hearing about how the Catalytic converter is the cause of the oil disappearing, and what not so I then tried to find replacement cats, this is when i ran into the no Cat for Cali program. I've been hearing about the gutting out procedure, but wouldnt that cause higher emission, Cali is a no tolerance state when it comes to what comes out your tail pipe.if oil is indeed getting by the rings, shouldn't smoke be present, my car passes smog with low levels on all contaminants.
another thing that's making things weird, shouldn't the 02 sensors be throwing a code, if my cat's are shot, i have a odb2 scanner that o run on my car every once in awhile, and there are no stored codes present.
about the oil thing, you're on the money with the suggestion of going back to regular Dino oil. i believe in giving my car the best that my money can buy, but lately I've been lowering the levels, since she doesn't deserve it like she once did.
I did the research hearing about how the Catalytic converter is the cause of the oil disappearing, and what not so I then tried to find replacement cats, this is when i ran into the no Cat for Cali program. I've been hearing about the gutting out procedure, but wouldnt that cause higher emission, Cali is a no tolerance state when it comes to what comes out your tail pipe.if oil is indeed getting by the rings, shouldn't smoke be present, my car passes smog with low levels on all contaminants.
another thing that's making things weird, shouldn't the 02 sensors be throwing a code, if my cat's are shot, i have a odb2 scanner that o run on my car every once in awhile, and there are no stored codes present.
about the oil thing, you're on the money with the suggestion of going back to regular Dino oil. i believe in giving my car the best that my money can buy, but lately I've been lowering the levels, since she doesn't deserve it like she once did.
Last edited by 02nismaxlegnd94; 02-16-2012 at 11:20 PM.
02-17-2012, 04:49 AM
#70
I've seen precats completely clogged on 02/03 maximas with no CEL. Many people believe that Nissan purposely reprogramed the ECU so that the engine light wouldn't come on when the precats fail (to protect their *** against having to do an expensive recall on all 02/03 maximas)
If the damage has already Been done on your piston rings by catalytic converter material going back inside the engine, changing them now won't solve your oil burning problem... Only a new engine, an engine rebuild or a new car will... Good luck!
I'm in the same boat as you are, a qt every 300miles. This year, I'm going to sell this thing, get me a toy car (e46 m3) and a beater car
If the damage has already Been done on your piston rings by catalytic converter material going back inside the engine, changing them now won't solve your oil burning problem... Only a new engine, an engine rebuild or a new car will... Good luck!
I'm in the same boat as you are, a qt every 300miles. This year, I'm going to sell this thing, get me a toy car (e46 m3) and a beater car
02-17-2012, 05:39 AM
#71
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Levittown, NY
Posts: 107
Thing is a lot of people have problems with the cps in this car to begin with though, it's not necessarily from using the restore. Nissan even put out a TSB about it. I can't speak for anything else out there, except seafoam, tried that for the hell of it and it seemed to improve throttle response a bit, nothing to write home about though. I know car craft magazine did a write up on the restore a few years back and proved that it actually does restore compression levels to near-stock in older cars so I've used it ever since and I love it, never caused a problem in any of my cars. They all ran smoother because of it. but hey it worked for me, and that's exactly what I used, figure you may as well try it since nothing else is working. As for me I'll be using this stuff in every oil change from here on out.
03-02-2012, 12:07 PM
#72
update changed my oil a few weeks back she ran fine, until i hit the 700 mile mark, added 1 1/2 quart of oil. reset my trip mileage (A) after i added the oil, she ran quiet except for an occasional intermittent rattling sound coming from the lower end of the engine. i drove her yesterday around the Bay for about 65 miles or so, stopped to hang with some friends for about 2 hours, getting back to the car and started the engine, oil light pops up and blinks on and off, especially when I'm decelerating at a stop light. mind you prior to this time the oil light and the lifter noise was not there earlier in the day.
The whole way home my engine was sounding like a old Mercedes diesel, and the only time it would quiet down was when i was off the gas. This is so sad at this rate i don't know how mush more this engine is going to tolerate and I'm 20 miles short to hitting 124K.
The whole way home my engine was sounding like a old Mercedes diesel, and the only time it would quiet down was when i was off the gas. This is so sad at this rate i don't know how mush more this engine is going to tolerate and I'm 20 miles short to hitting 124K.
03-02-2012, 12:55 PM
#73
update changed my oil a few weeks back she ran fine, until i hit the 700 mile mark, added 1 1/2 quart of oil. reset my trip mileage (A) after i added the oil, she ran quiet except for an occasional intermittent rattling sound coming from the lower end of the engine. i drove her yesterday around the Bay for about 65 miles or so, stopped to hang with some friends for about 2 hours, getting back to the car and started the engine, oil light pops up and blinks on and off, especially when I'm decelerating at a stop light. mind you prior to this time the oil light and the lifter noise was not there earlier in the day.
The whole way home my engine was sounding like a old Mercedes diesel, and the only time it would quiet down was when i was off the gas. This is so sad at this rate i don't know how mush more this engine is going to tolerate and I'm 20 miles short to hitting 124K.
The whole way home my engine was sounding like a old Mercedes diesel, and the only time it would quiet down was when i was off the gas. This is so sad at this rate i don't know how mush more this engine is going to tolerate and I'm 20 miles short to hitting 124K.
03-03-2012, 02:00 AM
#74
oh ohhh thats not good, went to the dealer today got an oil change, and told them of my oil consumption problems, they told me that the 350Z has the same problem. but to a certain point these VQ are supposed to use up a little oil, but not in the amount that I'm currently at. bottom line was that it's expected and just check my oil every now and then.
too the advice for what it is and left, went to autozone and purchased the 6 cylinder engine restore. poured half into my fresh oil and went to pick up my kids from school in Alameda, car felt great pulled hard in all gears. exited the freeway and came to my 1st stop light, car is runnig rough, 2nd light rpm dropping dramatically, almost stalling. get to the school parking lot and park, the engine sputters and dies with CEL on.
Since i keep my tools and ODB II scanner in my car, i hook it up and get a 3 codes, P0011 camshaft position timing over advanced (Bank 1), P0300 random misfire detected, P0021 camshaft position timing over advanced (Bank 2). I cleared the codes and made the decision to hit the freeway back home, instead of taking the surface streets. The car was pulling nicely even with the blinking intermittent CEL. back on the stop and go street traffic, i had to massage the gas pedal to keep the engine from dieing on me.
so thanks for the recommendation or the engine restorer my fellow NYC brethren. i have something to do now on Saturday, i figured i would hit up the dealer get another oil change to get that stuff out of my engine, purchase 1 or both cam sensors, and wish for the best, this messed up my Friday night so bad, i missed Spartacus. I'm truly being f'ed by Jupiter's c**k, and we will have words.
too the advice for what it is and left, went to autozone and purchased the 6 cylinder engine restore. poured half into my fresh oil and went to pick up my kids from school in Alameda, car felt great pulled hard in all gears. exited the freeway and came to my 1st stop light, car is runnig rough, 2nd light rpm dropping dramatically, almost stalling. get to the school parking lot and park, the engine sputters and dies with CEL on.
Since i keep my tools and ODB II scanner in my car, i hook it up and get a 3 codes, P0011 camshaft position timing over advanced (Bank 1), P0300 random misfire detected, P0021 camshaft position timing over advanced (Bank 2). I cleared the codes and made the decision to hit the freeway back home, instead of taking the surface streets. The car was pulling nicely even with the blinking intermittent CEL. back on the stop and go street traffic, i had to massage the gas pedal to keep the engine from dieing on me.
so thanks for the recommendation or the engine restorer my fellow NYC brethren. i have something to do now on Saturday, i figured i would hit up the dealer get another oil change to get that stuff out of my engine, purchase 1 or both cam sensors, and wish for the best, this messed up my Friday night so bad, i missed Spartacus. I'm truly being f'ed by Jupiter's c**k, and we will have words.
03-03-2012, 12:46 PM
#75
just got back from the dealer after getting a second oil change in a 60 mile period. purchased both bank 1 and bank 2 cam sensors, and waiting for the engine to cool down before i change them out. because the engine restore fowled up the sensors, they stopped functioning almost totally, car is sputtering like crazy.
03-03-2012, 03:35 PM
#77
just cleared the codes on the old sensors, took them out cleaned them off with mass air flow cleaner, there was only a small amount of micro metal residue on the both cam sensors. after the cleaning i placed them back into the engine re assembled everything, and gave it a try, still running rough shaking and bringing up misfire and bank 1 and Bank 2 codes.
i then went back in and removed the old sensors, installed the new ones hoping that all was well, and nothing, same shaking misfire and cam codes, and these are brand new sensors from Nissan. i then figured the computer needs to be rebooted, so i cleared the codes and disconnected the battery. waited half an hour, reconnected battery, turn on the car and behold still shaking, and cam and misfire codes reappearing.
I'm now wondering whats wrong here, new Cam sensors new clean oil, checked the plugs, and they appear fine, at least the ones on bank 2 (front of engine). whats next ? i figured the plugs are probably bad at this point, plug change coming up next, why not make this an all day event. wish me luck.
this restore crap was only driven approximately 60 miles, how much havoc can this stuff cause. I've never had Cam sensor problems prior to yesterday, much less with brand new sensors too.
BTW: last night after the problems i did put in a can of seafoam and put about 30+ miles on it, knowing that today i was dealer bound for another fresh oil change again today.
i then went back in and removed the old sensors, installed the new ones hoping that all was well, and nothing, same shaking misfire and cam codes, and these are brand new sensors from Nissan. i then figured the computer needs to be rebooted, so i cleared the codes and disconnected the battery. waited half an hour, reconnected battery, turn on the car and behold still shaking, and cam and misfire codes reappearing.
I'm now wondering whats wrong here, new Cam sensors new clean oil, checked the plugs, and they appear fine, at least the ones on bank 2 (front of engine). whats next ? i figured the plugs are probably bad at this point, plug change coming up next, why not make this an all day event. wish me luck.
this restore crap was only driven approximately 60 miles, how much havoc can this stuff cause. I've never had Cam sensor problems prior to yesterday, much less with brand new sensors too.
BTW: last night after the problems i did put in a can of seafoam and put about 30+ miles on it, knowing that today i was dealer bound for another fresh oil change again today.
Last edited by 02nismaxlegnd94; 03-03-2012 at 03:46 PM.
03-03-2012, 08:45 PM
#78
crisis averted changed the plugs and finally shes running smooth again, so it only took me 2 oil changes @ $37 each, 2 cam sensors @ 194.75 combined and 6 NGK plugs @ $30 + bucks.all this money spent for 1 $9 a can miracle restorer.
i wouldn't wish this experience on someone i don't like, I'm not that mean. if this thread accomplished 1 good thing, i hope that my other Maxima heads out there stay away from this product. suddenly adding oil to these VQ's doesn't look like such a bad thing, there are much more things to worry about out there.
i wouldn't wish this experience on someone i don't like, I'm not that mean. if this thread accomplished 1 good thing, i hope that my other Maxima heads out there stay away from this product. suddenly adding oil to these VQ's doesn't look like such a bad thing, there are much more things to worry about out there.
03-03-2012, 09:24 PM
#79
crisis averted changed the plugs and finally shes running smooth again, so it only took me 2 oil changes @ $37 each, 2 cam sensors @ 194.75 combined and 6 NGK plugs @ $30 + bucks.all this money spent for 1 $9 a can miracle restorer.
i wouldn't wish this experience on someone i don't like, I'm not that mean. if this thread accomplished 1 good thing, i hope that my other Maxima heads out there stay away from this product. suddenly adding oil to these VQ's doesn't look like such a bad thing, there are much more things to worry about out there.
i wouldn't wish this experience on someone i don't like, I'm not that mean. if this thread accomplished 1 good thing, i hope that my other Maxima heads out there stay away from this product. suddenly adding oil to these VQ's doesn't look like such a bad thing, there are much more things to worry about out there.
03-04-2012, 02:34 AM
#80
/\ you are correct on what you said, back on Friday night when the lifters started chatter, and the low end rattle was being heard in lower rpm's that was the beginning of what ever problem's that lead me to where i am right now.that low oil situation is apart of the problem, because it's never been so immediate before, i could listen to my engine and tell when it was getting low on oil, from the initial 1 second chatter upon starting the engine after its been sitting over night. while i did hear it earlier on friday morning i thought nothing of it, because usually about a week later the lifter chatter would become more noticeable.
as for whats next i'll get to that later in the day, i now have new oil, camshaft position sensors, Bank 1 and 2, and new plugs in the car. funny thing, because after i installed the plugs i went for a short drive, she ran fine in traffic i couldnt even tell the engine was running i was amazed, after all that work i accomplished something good.
but fast forward to tonight she ran fine, in the beginning of the 70 MPH freeway cruise i was enjoying, until i felt the shaking as if i was driving on an unpaved road, thats when i knew the problem returned. i'll dig in again today to see what else i can come up with. reading up on p0011 and p0021, it seems alot of folks ran into these codes along with the random misfire code.
Altimas, Maximas, 350Z's even G35's have this problem, but also not to rule out my initial culprit, many also went and used Engine restore in their cars, and within as little as 5 miles the codes popped up with all the associated performance problems. I'm not blaming the (restore) but after running into other testimonials while searching for the codes together, I was surprised to find quite a few like me introduced this crap into our engines.So what ever the solution, i will have to figure out where mine is to be found.
as for whats next i'll get to that later in the day, i now have new oil, camshaft position sensors, Bank 1 and 2, and new plugs in the car. funny thing, because after i installed the plugs i went for a short drive, she ran fine in traffic i couldnt even tell the engine was running i was amazed, after all that work i accomplished something good.
but fast forward to tonight she ran fine, in the beginning of the 70 MPH freeway cruise i was enjoying, until i felt the shaking as if i was driving on an unpaved road, thats when i knew the problem returned. i'll dig in again today to see what else i can come up with. reading up on p0011 and p0021, it seems alot of folks ran into these codes along with the random misfire code.
Altimas, Maximas, 350Z's even G35's have this problem, but also not to rule out my initial culprit, many also went and used Engine restore in their cars, and within as little as 5 miles the codes popped up with all the associated performance problems. I'm not blaming the (restore) but after running into other testimonials while searching for the codes together, I was surprised to find quite a few like me introduced this crap into our engines.So what ever the solution, i will have to figure out where mine is to be found.
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