I know this is a longshot but since March when I bought the Max, this rattle has been driving me crazy. Now that I've replaced the shocks/springs it's even worse. My worry is that I may have to remove the entire dash to find it...so I'm posting as a last resort before getting to that. Hopefully if one of you have had the dash apart or had a similar rattle you can give me some ideas.

Anyway, here's a quick video of it showing how strange it is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWOXsdyu-hw


As you can see, pressing anywhere on the dash (speedo, radio, hazards, airbags, clock, etc) makes it go away. I've removed the center console, steering column, radio cover and gauge cluster and it remains. The only thing left before removing the entire dash is the vents at the bottom of the windshield but I'm unsure how to remove them and there's some sort of sensor I'm worried about breaking. Any input is appreciated!

 

Yo check the TSB on it. You have to put some kind of adhesive tape on to make it go away. I did that long time ago. I forgot where exactly it was.

 

Whoa...there's an actual technical service bulletin for a rattle!? So this is a common thing?

If that ends up being the fix, I seriously owe you a beer or ten. Guess I better start hunting down TSBs.

 

Okay I've done more research and found the article about all rattles, pointing to the glovebox rattle with tape working. Mine seems to be coming from higher up and gets quiet by the glovebox but I'll try it anyway.

I also searched .ORG and found various dead links. However, I did find this paragraph about the clock area rattle. Is this what you're talking about tedo007 or the glovebox one? Thanks!

 

I hear a similar sound in my '97. If I press on top of the dash just to the right of the gauge cluster, it stops. I suspect one of the mounting points for the dash. I was going to try to insert a piece of paperboard (cereal box) between the dash and the metal frame underneath, but I've been putting it off.

 

Neat video. I wish I had 3 arms.

 

You do, if you count your knee as a driving instrument

 

Well Tedo can't recall where he fixed his rattle from and I've since removed the dash vents and clock completely and the rattle persists. I'm about ready to offer a $50 reward to anyone that can help me figure this one out once and for all

 

Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting

INSTRUMENT PANEL

Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. The cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel mounting pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint

These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by applying
felt cloth tape or silicon spray (in hard to reach areas). Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring harness.

CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the area with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.

CENTER CONSOLE

Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit

The instrument panel repair and isolation procedures also apply to the center console.


OAN Nissan actually sells a part for this repair. Check this out:

The following materials are contained in the Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980). Each item can be ordered
separately as needed:

URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100 x 135 mm (3.94 x 5.31 in)/76884-71L01: 60 x 85 mm (2.36 x 3.35 in)/76884-71L02: 15 x
25 mm (0.59 x 0.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact. Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50 x 50 mm (1.97 x 1.97 in)/73982-50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick, 50 x
50 mm (1.97 x 1.97 in)
INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30 x 50 mm (1.18 x 1.97 in)
FELT CLOTH TAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occur. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
68370-4B000: 15 x 25 mm (0.59 x 0.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in) wide tape roll
The following materials, not found in the kit, can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW (TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
SILICONE GREASE
Used in place of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit.
Note: Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.

 

What article/TSB are you referencing that from Tuner? I checked most of those using the lengthy "Generic Rattles" document on the stickied TSB site but haven't found it yet. Here's the one I tried http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB99-056f.pdf

Of the ones you posted, these are the only two I haven't checked but with no diagrams I'm a little lost on where to look.

4. Instrument panel to windshield - This one seems promising because my noise sounds like it's close to the windshield. They can't mean the lid so perhaps the area is behind the cluster? I drove without it (bad idea) and couldn't spot it.

7. A/C defroster duct and tduct joint - Now this I've never checked. If this is the defroster, it should also be close to the windshield no? I have no idea where this is.

 

On my I30 I had to a similar rattle. I had to tighten the center screw holding the gauge cluster to the dash. You must remove the cluster bezel to get to the screw.

 

Unfortunately I've actually had the entire cluster out of the car while driving (which causes the car to throw codes like crazy btw!) and it persisted. I appreciate the tip though!

If tearing apart the entire front interior this weekend for this guide doesn't expose it I think I might have to get weird with the fix. I was thinking of taking a bungee cord and attaching it to both the firewall and some hard/stable piece of the center console/dash so it gets "pulled" towards the firewall and stops the rattle. Sounds crazy but I'm almost out of ideas!

 

Seedy I pulled that info directly from the FSM for the 2003 model year. In the BT section (Body and Trim)

 

Thanks bud, I found an online copy and it lacks any diagrams so I'll dig in this weekend and see if I can figure it those two new ideas. Appreciate it!

 

Too bad that isnt the reason. I know how frustrating rattles can be.