Just watching the video how to remove/install struts.

http://www.ehow.com/video_2327701_to...nt-struts.html

Question I have is with a new spring/strut assembly, installing it did I need to line it up at all before bolting the top four screws?

The video refers to only a strut replacement.

 

4give me for not watching the video, but 4screws!?...3 screws to attach assembly to car, one nut to bolt top-hat to hold spring/strut assembly. Lining up is always good for both attaching to car and assembling.

 

3 screws yes, and no need to line up. Only goes one way.

 

not to be a *****, but i saw no screws...just studs, nuts and bolts...

 

OK, getting the lower bolts on strut is a pain. after 13 years they must be seized. Already damaged a ratchet extension. Sprayed lots of PB Blaster an hour ago.

Should I use a blow torch? Afraid for lower bolt, just over the rubber bellows of the CV joint I believe.

 

impact gun, and a deep socket, no extension theyll pop

 

To line up the strut assembly as you put it back together, the only thing you must do is make sure the word "OUT" stamped on top of the upper spring perch faces out and is in line with the struts lower mounting flange.

The top mount rides on a bearing so aligning the studs on the mount to the chassis of the car is easy. Just rotate the mount until the 3 studs are lined up.

The rest is just nuts and bolts.

 

I have a cordless impact gun, only 14.4 volts, can't do it. Could jam the thing.

I will try in stages, slowly loosen.

It pays to get a good impact.

 

It pays to be strong and have good ratchets lol Mine were rusted to **** when I threw my drop back on in the spring and with my Craftsman 1/2 ratchet, a little penetrating oil (hehe) and strength, I was able to work it slowly (hehe) and get everything loosened up.

 

Might rent a powerful electric impact from rental. I think I fried my cordless gun.

A web search, one said could try a local garage to use their air gun and tighten back snug. But such would require going on hoist and tire removal.

Blow torch time?

 

I'd be leary using a blow torch around struts. Remember, they're filled with gas.

 

Gas in struts not a problem; more need to be careful of rubber boots on CV and steering rack. Keep the flame on the nuts themselves and you will be fine. Leverage is your friend if you don't have air tools; try using a 1/2" breaker bar with a chunk of pipe on the end.

 

yo man 1/2" ratchet. Use impact instead of tryin to pull or push. Jus bang the ratchet CCW till that bish loosen

 

enlist a friend a get a quality 3 foot breaker bar...and find a pipe that fits snug, or look into a good snap on or mac air impact, IR makes a good one too,

 

Thanks, but running out of options and lower back. the bolts are getting a bit rounded.

Shop time?

 

A 3 foot breaker bar got my OEM struts off last year. My impact gun wouldn't do it.

 

Where do you get a 3 foot bar?

My bolts are beginning to round, that's the issue.

 

i got mine from the snap on truck, but i have one i keep in my trunk(instead of a 4 way, to save weight) i got at harbor freight tools for like 25 or 30 bucks, and they have a warrenty, i havent broken it yet and i have had a 10 foot pipe to extend it

 

really the only way to have a "good" impact is to get and air powered one. and then its only as "good" as the compressor youve got powering it.

 

At this point your gonna have to consider a rounded bolt removal socket also. If 2 of them are still good, and you are lowering the car(not sure), you can get an alignment kit for $17 from Summit Racing

 

Replacing with OEM shocks. Alignment kit, you mean wheel allignment?

Did about 1 min on a bolt with propane torch. Maybe acetylene is better?

Got a 3' breaker bar from Princess Auto, haven't used, looking for extension pipe, only have a 4' foot plastic pipe. JUnk yard?

 

jack handle

 

An update.

The 3' breaker bar and PB Blaster seemed to loosen the bolts, on one side so far, and on first crank. Great.

Got the whole strut off, problem is installing the whole new strut assembly.

Seems like you need the perfect angle to get through the three holes at the top. The brake assembly does allow for some play, but any trick before I rip the rubber boot of the I guess CV joint below?

This video shows some skill in re-install, but seem he has a lot more room to play with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReY1FKJxoxo

The new strut is identical to the old, so have right part.

 

Now I can see the problem. 2 bolts fit easily through the top, the third isn't even close. I did measurements between centres of those two bolts on old and new and the new has an extra 1/8" of more.

I ordered correctly from Rockauto, the left front strut assembly, 171683 , the box says 171683ST for a 1998 Maxima GXE.

 

Rotate the top of the new strut until the bolts line up w the holes; there may be an arrow on the top that needs to point outward. IIRC, the bolts are not symmetrical around the top plate.

 

A call to Rockauto who contacted Monroe got response that use the "F" marked on plate as the outside side. Then use a crowbar to adjust the bottom bracket on the strut.

First of all with the current position of the bottom bracket, the control arm is getting in the way. Good idea to unbolt?

Second, that bottom bracket appears welded. Is it adjustable?

 

The strut should rotate easily once you get the 3 studs lined up.

 

All installed?

Just remember when then say, put the flat part of the top plate facing the outside or the "F" engraved on the plate should be on the outside, its not necessarily so.

The best way to line up the upper bolts is to measure the distances, they are all asymmetrical, save you some time.

Now, do I need an alignment? No tie rod was unloosened.

 

You replaced a major suspension component.
One that holds the wheel in position.

What do you think??

 

Thx njmaxseltd, all garages closing shortly. I need to go elsewhere tonight; am I ok to drive around 5 km?

 

Garage is telling me the lower strut bolts don't leave enough play to adjust camber so they need to undo bolts and cut a new hole, one hour labor.

These are Monroe OEM materials, or so I gathered. The mechanic did say Monroe does provide camber adjusting sleeves, but I am disappointed none the less on OEM not really being so.

 

Don't blame the struts, it could be your car's sub frame or other suspension or chassis related wear and tare.

 

So really it could be due to deterioration of all from wear and tear so the frame and chassis may not be originally positioned as designed.