CoryXavier BOP Install How-To
CoryXavier BOP Install How-To
So like several of you I received these Block Off Plates today in the mail from Cory, so was eager to try them out. For those who are curious about trying it or want help installing here is a step by step. I'll update in the future with my results after testing and will only post my initial impressions for now.
The Block Off Plates themselves are well made, and they don't look like they were rushed at all care went into each set. The set also comes with 8 black Torx T-25 screws that are shorter than the OEM ones which you need to install, and two blue caps to cover the spots that you disconnect the VIAS assembly from.
Tools needed: Torx-25 socket piece, right angle socket wrench (the smaller the better), allen wrench (to take off engine cover), flat head screwdriver (to partially remove intake) and a little patience when working in small areas.
Step 1: Remove primary engine cover, this requires an allen wrench (didn't check what size, I have a multi-size tool and just tried until one fit)

Step 2: Partially remove your intake for clearance on the right BOP which is directly next to the intake. I disconnected the small tube and moved it out of the way as well as disconnected the intake itself and moved it to the side an inch or two


Step 3: Remove the 4 T-25 Torx bolts holding on the right VIAS piece, disconnect the small tube as it will prevent you from removing it, then slide it out backwards (be careful as it has a piece that extends into the intake manifold)


Step 4: Install the smaller BOP aligning it to the screw holes and using the 4 black Torx T-25 screws provided with the set. Tighten until the screws are snug, do not overtorque

Step 5: Cap off the solenoid with one of the provided blue caps

Step 6: Remove the 4 T-25 Torx bolts holding on the left VIAS piece, which is towards the left rear of the intake manifold (under the strut bar if you have one). This was hard as the area to work in is small but I did not have to remove my strut bar (Racingline) I just used a mini 90 degree angle socket wrench and slowly worked them out. Here is where patience is key.

Step 7: Remove the tube connected to the solenoid from the left VIAS piece (if you haven't already) and cap it with the other provided blue cap

Step 8: Install the larger BOP on the left aligning it with the screw holes (with the large bump pointing upwards) using the other 4 black Torx T-25 screws that come provided with the set, tighten until the screws are snug do not overtorque


Step 9: Don't forget to re-attach the intake pieces you removed in step 2

Step 10: Reset your ECU (disconnect negative terminal on battery and leave off for 10 minutes, reconnect)
What we have left over (VIAS assembly)
The Block Off Plates themselves are well made, and they don't look like they were rushed at all care went into each set. The set also comes with 8 black Torx T-25 screws that are shorter than the OEM ones which you need to install, and two blue caps to cover the spots that you disconnect the VIAS assembly from.
Tools needed: Torx-25 socket piece, right angle socket wrench (the smaller the better), allen wrench (to take off engine cover), flat head screwdriver (to partially remove intake) and a little patience when working in small areas.
Step 1: Remove primary engine cover, this requires an allen wrench (didn't check what size, I have a multi-size tool and just tried until one fit)
Step 2: Partially remove your intake for clearance on the right BOP which is directly next to the intake. I disconnected the small tube and moved it out of the way as well as disconnected the intake itself and moved it to the side an inch or two
Step 3: Remove the 4 T-25 Torx bolts holding on the right VIAS piece, disconnect the small tube as it will prevent you from removing it, then slide it out backwards (be careful as it has a piece that extends into the intake manifold)
Step 4: Install the smaller BOP aligning it to the screw holes and using the 4 black Torx T-25 screws provided with the set. Tighten until the screws are snug, do not overtorque
Step 5: Cap off the solenoid with one of the provided blue caps
Step 6: Remove the 4 T-25 Torx bolts holding on the left VIAS piece, which is towards the left rear of the intake manifold (under the strut bar if you have one). This was hard as the area to work in is small but I did not have to remove my strut bar (Racingline) I just used a mini 90 degree angle socket wrench and slowly worked them out. Here is where patience is key.

Step 7: Remove the tube connected to the solenoid from the left VIAS piece (if you haven't already) and cap it with the other provided blue cap
Step 8: Install the larger BOP on the left aligning it with the screw holes (with the large bump pointing upwards) using the other 4 black Torx T-25 screws that come provided with the set, tighten until the screws are snug do not overtorque
Step 9: Don't forget to re-attach the intake pieces you removed in step 2
Step 10: Reset your ECU (disconnect negative terminal on battery and leave off for 10 minutes, reconnect)
What we have left over (VIAS assembly)
Last edited by Ghozt; Sep 14, 2011 at 02:52 PM.
Impressions / results:
Day 1 - my butt dyno is telling me there is an increase in power; it feels like the car more "easily" accelerates and everything is more open, especially at higher speeds. there is a subtle noise change that sounds halfway between the change in sound a short ram intake gives you VS the stock (a little louder). so far im liking it and cant wait to keep testing it throughout the week to report back mileage changes/etc
Good work Cory!!!
Day 2 - I have a better feeling for what has changed, IMO not a lot of gain low end but around 4000 rpms it opens up and really hauls...im seeing 1-2 mpg increase and thats with lots of lead foot....as tommy said its an inexpensive mod and easy to reverse if you dont like it. Give it a shot im really liking mine and will post up results with my cai next week
Day 4 - just came back from a highway trip and easily saw 2-3 MPG improvement and at my cruising speeds it was extremely easy to pass people. this car so effortlessly accelerates i feel like nobody really even tries to keep up with me on the road after seeing the car jump from 50-80 in just a couple seconds
Day 9 - still loving them, getting used to the subtle increase in acceleration. had a friend drive the car who has a 2010 stock Maxima, and dude was lovin' it i wouldnt be surprised if he buys some BOP's now lol. will be updating this weekend with my real testing when my CAI pipes go back on
For more detailed install instructions and results check out MiDiablo's install thread here - nevermind they were merged his starts below
Day 1 - my butt dyno is telling me there is an increase in power; it feels like the car more "easily" accelerates and everything is more open, especially at higher speeds. there is a subtle noise change that sounds halfway between the change in sound a short ram intake gives you VS the stock (a little louder). so far im liking it and cant wait to keep testing it throughout the week to report back mileage changes/etc
Good work Cory!!!
Day 2 - I have a better feeling for what has changed, IMO not a lot of gain low end but around 4000 rpms it opens up and really hauls...im seeing 1-2 mpg increase and thats with lots of lead foot....as tommy said its an inexpensive mod and easy to reverse if you dont like it. Give it a shot im really liking mine and will post up results with my cai next week
Day 4 - just came back from a highway trip and easily saw 2-3 MPG improvement and at my cruising speeds it was extremely easy to pass people. this car so effortlessly accelerates i feel like nobody really even tries to keep up with me on the road after seeing the car jump from 50-80 in just a couple seconds
Day 9 - still loving them, getting used to the subtle increase in acceleration. had a friend drive the car who has a 2010 stock Maxima, and dude was lovin' it i wouldnt be surprised if he buys some BOP's now lol. will be updating this weekend with my real testing when my CAI pipes go back on
For more detailed install instructions and results check out MiDiablo's install thread here - nevermind they were merged his starts below
Last edited by Ghozt; Sep 23, 2011 at 08:21 AM.
Impressions / results:
Day 1 - my butt dyno is telling me there is an increase in power; it feels like the car more "easily" accelerates and everything is more open, especially at higher speeds. there is a subtle noise change that sounds halfway between the change in sound a short ram intake gives you VS the stock (a little louder). so far im liking it and cant wait to keep testing it throughout the week to report back mileage changes/etc
Good work Cory!!!
Day 1 - my butt dyno is telling me there is an increase in power; it feels like the car more "easily" accelerates and everything is more open, especially at higher speeds. there is a subtle noise change that sounds halfway between the change in sound a short ram intake gives you VS the stock (a little louder). so far im liking it and cant wait to keep testing it throughout the week to report back mileage changes/etc
Good work Cory!!!
Thanks Cory for a quality product. I love these 20 minute mods with no apparent downside.
Tom Krutulis
zipsensors.com
you guys are great!!!
i must still give a shout out to izfukxwituz & Hmax for coming to see me in CT from NY to get me started on making this mod for everyone. this was truely breaking ground on a mod never done for the 7th gens. you guys are really holding a piece of 7th gen performance history
i must still give a shout out to izfukxwituz & Hmax for coming to see me in CT from NY to get me started on making this mod for everyone. this was truely breaking ground on a mod never done for the 7th gens. you guys are really holding a piece of 7th gen performance history
It feels great all around. Smooth. I don't feel it lost anywhere and def pulls harder up top. I was gonna try to hit the 1/4 tonight for kicks but got tied up. Also, I have not reset ecu yet. I will in the near future and see if it makes any difference. Hey, for $65, give it a try...if you don't like it, then it's an ez swap back. My .02
thanks guys... i ordered it and i just can't wait to know the results.. so i asked.. lol
@coryxavier... i tracked my order and said it was "missent".. i was suppose to receive it today but it never came...
@coryxavier... i tracked my order and said it was "missent".. i was suppose to receive it today but it never came...
the postal manager that i deal with got on the phones and was fired up about the mishap. a few hours later he called and said its on its way with no issues. This was after i showed up with a party platter of sandwiches for the staff for the great customer service i always have with them. who says you cant bride people lol. its a small price to pay for building a great reputation.
Last edited by CXJ Performance; Sep 16, 2011 at 11:48 AM.
the postal manager that i deal with got on the phones and was fired up about the mishap. a few hours later he called and said its on its way with no issues. This was after i showed up with a party platter of sandwiches for the staff for the great customer service i always have with them. who says you cant bride people lol. its a small price to pay for building a great reputation.
Got mine installed finally on Saturday. Not much difference off the bottom, but on the highway.................. OMG!!! This thing will scream from about 3,500 and up! I reset the ecu and maybe that helped, but now my "auto-up" feature on the windows doesn't work. Oh well, I guess I can use the extra time to listen to her scream 
Good job Cory!

Good job Cory!
Got mine installed finally on Saturday. Not much difference off the bottom, but on the highway.................. OMG!!! This thing will scream from about 3,500 and up! I reset the ecu and maybe that helped, but now my "auto-up" feature on the windows doesn't work. Oh well, I guess I can use the extra time to listen to her scream 
Good job Cory!

Good job Cory!
lmao
glad you like them. i cant see why your windows dont work but i highly doubt thats from the bop plates. try unplugging the battery once more to get that function back
Just installed mine Saturday and the passenger side definitely takes patience. Driver side was cake. Over all it wasnt too bad of a job. I have two left hands and was still able to do it. lol So far so good as far as performance goes. I have yet to drive it much after so we will see how much the mpg's improve over the week.
Hey Cory. I'll be PM'ing you shortly for a set. Thanks again! I think I will stay with the black. It will keep the under hood looking stock I think (I had you send me a unfinished one for my 5.5gen).
Good Looking out on that tip. Is it really needed to reset the ECU? Or is it just good practice? I just ordered my set. Taking a long trip with the family in December so looking forward to the better mileage.
Figure if it is needed, I'm at least not skipping the step. If it's not, oh well I wasted 5 minutes drinking a beer while it was unplugged.
Plates are in and install was very quick. Even with the motor HOT! Honestly? Meh. I don't feel anything. I reset the ECU also. I am gonna give it a full tank to see if the ECU adjusts properly and try to see any improvement in MPG. If I get a couple MPG back I'll be happy. We will see.
Plates are in and install was very quick. Even with the motor HOT! Honestly? Meh. I don't feel anything. I reset the ECU also. I am gonna give it a full tank to see if the ECU adjusts properly and try to see any improvement in MPG. If I get a couple MPG back I'll be happy. We will see.
CoryXavier’s 7th Gen Maxima BOP Installation How-To, Write-Up & Review
By MiDiablo


The vehicle: 7th Generation 2010 Nissan Maxima S 3.5L V6 w/CVT Transmission
The test: Removal of factory VIAS System and Installation of Cory’s Block-Off Plates (also referred to as a "BOP")
Tools required: 3/8” Drive Ratchet, T25 Torx Bit, 10MM Deep Well Socket, ¼” Open End Wrench, 5MM Allen Wrench, Adjustable Pliers, Towel, Mechanics Gloves.
Degree of difficulty: 2 out of 10. I would have given this a “1” if it weren’t so difficult & didn’t require so much patience to remove/reinstall several of the bolts on the left VIAS / BOP closest to the firewall.
Estimated time to completion: Approximately 30 minutes +/-. I completed it in 30 minutes, including taking all the notes & photographs along the way. Even an amateur/novice installer should be able to complete with great ease (if you can read & follow instructions well).
Introduction to CoryXavier's BOP's can be found at the following thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ew-ground.html
Information on how to go about purchasing your very own set of BOP's from CoryXavier can be found at the following thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ml#post8186609
Ghozt's rendition of the BOP review & write-up can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...stall-how.html
<<< Please click here for a SLIDESHOW of all installation photos!!! >>>
<<< Please click here for a DIRECT LINK to the online photo album!!!>>>
(http://www.photobucket.com/midiablo7thgenmaximabop)
<<< Please click here for a DIRECT LINK to the online photo album!!!>>>
(http://www.photobucket.com/midiablo7thgenmaximabop)
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Last edited by MiDiablo; Sep 23, 2011 at 12:35 AM.
I prefer to wear mechanics gloves to do most of my work on the vehicle. You can also do this barehanded or with latex gloves; whatever you prefer. The first tool you will need is a 5MM Allen Wrench.

The first step is to remove the engine cover to give yourself the necessary clearance to remove the factory VIAS components, as well as to have access to the vacuum lines that you will need to cap. Place the 5MM Allen Key into the two black bolts on top of the engine cover, turn left to loosen, and remove.



For those of you that have never before removed the engine cover, you will remove the two allen bolts as stated above, and then you will put your hands below the engine cover (front) and give a strong pull towards the hood of the car. These chrome bolts are “pushed” into rubber grommets on the underside of the engine cover, so you just need to pull hard enough to release them from the grommets:



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Last edited by MiDiablo; Sep 23, 2011 at 12:35 AM.
Once the engine cover is removed, you’ll need to saddle up your 3/8” Drive Ratchet w/the T25 Torx Bit Socket. I used a Duralast ratchet and Stanley sockets. Starting with the driver’s side, you will have (4) T25 Factory Screws to remove (chrome/silver). Remove all four factory screws from the driver’s side VIAS component.




Once the screws are removed from the VIAS component, you can begin to remove the driver’s side butterfly valve from within the intake manifold.

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Once the screws are removed from the VIAS component, you can begin to remove the driver’s side butterfly valve from within the intake manifold.

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Before removing the butterfly from the manifold, this is the best time (IMO) to go ahead and remove the vacuum line from the other end of the VIAS.

To complete the removal of the vacuum line, I secured a garage towel around the vacuum line and placed a pair of adjustable pliers over the towel and around the vacuum line. You will want to remove the vacuum line from the brass/gold portion of the system, and leave the vacuum line attached to the black VIAS component. You will need to pull rather hard, and in some instances it may be worth squirting the brass line & end of the vacuum tube with a small squirt of WD40 or Silicone Spray.


Once the vacuum line is removed, you *may* need to bend the brass piece back into its 100% upright position. In the pulling, I managed to bend mine a few CM’s right of stock, and wanted it to be back in the corrected position before completing the install. At this time, you will have been provided with two caps from Cory for the vacuum lines; you will need to place one of the caps onto the brass fitting shown here:


Now it’s time to remove the driver’s side VIAS completely.


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To complete the removal of the vacuum line, I secured a garage towel around the vacuum line and placed a pair of adjustable pliers over the towel and around the vacuum line. You will want to remove the vacuum line from the brass/gold portion of the system, and leave the vacuum line attached to the black VIAS component. You will need to pull rather hard, and in some instances it may be worth squirting the brass line & end of the vacuum tube with a small squirt of WD40 or Silicone Spray.


Once the vacuum line is removed, you *may* need to bend the brass piece back into its 100% upright position. In the pulling, I managed to bend mine a few CM’s right of stock, and wanted it to be back in the corrected position before completing the install. At this time, you will have been provided with two caps from Cory for the vacuum lines; you will need to place one of the caps onto the brass fitting shown here:


Now it’s time to remove the driver’s side VIAS completely.



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