We went for seafood tonight, came out and the intelli-keys worked fine on doors, got in the car and ignition was on LOCK and would not start. Turned wheels back and forth..messed with shifter, did both at same time...nothing.

The only reason that could be found online was a dead battery. After we got inside the car, nothing worked...intelli-keys would not lock doors, unlock trunk or function in any way. We did have interior lights at first, then nothing.

Went back later with a friend to jump start it and nothing..would not even spark when the red post was touched. However, the brake lights are as bright as ever and are the only electrical thing that does work.

Thinking the anti-theft system and the intelli-keys are at odds because a BIG spark ensued when another metal part was touched by the live cable so the cables were hooked up ok.....it would appear the battery will not accept a jump start. I have read that may be a function of the ATS. Any ideas? Nearest dealer is 45 min away and the car is still in the restaurant parking lot.

 

Put the i-key in the slot (left side of steering wheel) and try again...

Sounds like something in the body control module has gotten screwed up. Ikey in slot is the override. Happened on my 370Z exactly the same way once.

Came up to the Z and thought it was DEAD DEAD as ikey was 100% non-operational. Manual key to unlock car and ikey in slot to start.

And pushbutton start shouldn't interfere with jumpstarting. The ECM is programmed to operate the starter for no more than 10 seconds at a time to prevent overheating. It will also disengage starter motor if voltage falls < 10.8V. SO if it were a dead battery, it would cycle OFF/LOCK -> ACC -> ON(start) and most likely go back to OFF. You would hear the starter at least click once or twice in an attempt to start the engine...but as soon as it did that and voltage drops off, it would halt the starter and most likely cycle to OFF or ACC (don't ask me how I know this...LOL).

So, in short, the body control module is in charge of windows, door locks, TPMS, I-KEY REGISTRATION, security system...

Late,
Trav

 

I certainly appreciate the reply and will give that a shot..THANKS!

 

No problem. Let us know what happens.

When I had my 09 Z, the same thing happened. It had sat for a week due to a big snow storm. It did the same thing as yours. The i-key was 100% non-operational. Had to use the REAL key to unlock and lock doors. When I tried starting it, it just said "No key" or "insert key" or whatever it says. It totally did not recognize the key at all. However, with putting it in the slot, I could start the engine. For no apparent reason, the BCM and ikey transmitter just decided not to talk to each other anymore. They had the car for over a week just trying to figure out what was going on with it...had to replace several parts, including the BCM and ikey antenna transmitter.

As far as the battery, I've never ran mine so dead that the dash lights wouldn't come on. I could turn the ignition ON and all the dash lights were dim, but still on. When attempting to start, though, it would click the starter for just a split second (attempted to start), but then it would immediately click OFF (or ACC). If it were truly so dead that it couldn't even power up....well, I don't know what it would do it that case. But I would imagine that you would have some very dim lights in that case.

Can you turn on your headlights? Signal lights?

BCM controls LOTS more stuff that you'd care to even think about. Windshield wipers, interior lighting, headlights, signal lights, steering lock, power seats and steering wheel, defroster, door and trunk locks, pushbutton, ikey, TPMS, horn, cruise control, windows, butt warmers, interior and exterior chimes...etc. Basically, when you hit the defroster button or turn the wipers on or turn your L signal light on, that is simply sending a request to the BCM to do what you just told it to do. 99.99% of the time, it obeys. In your case, maybe not so much.

Late,
Trav

 

im assuming that worked since he didnt post anything yet?

 

No luck so far...tried the key in slot, nothing happened..still on LOCK and will not budge. Brake lights work, nothing else does...been busy all morning..renting a car, etc.

Nissan dealer says battery also...but..why won't it jump start or even spark when touching the cable connector to the + post...anyway...going to try a new battery first then have a dealer pick it up if that does not work. Thanks for the help...from here it looks like a real big hassle is on the way.

 

When the stock battery took a dump in my 6.5gen after playing the radio for a few hours, i was able to jump start it and get home. The next day, it would not even click with jumper cables on it. All of the lights came on at first then became dimmer over a few minutes. The battery had an internal short between the cells. Changed the battery out and it fired right up.

Hopefully it is just a battery in your instance.

 

Whatever it is it should be warranty coverage

 

that sucks

 

The Max was given a ride on a flatbed tow truck to A Pep Boys in Orange Beach, Al. While waiting for service, I called another dealer nearby to prepare for the possibility of needing Nissan-specific computer work. The service manager said...well, this a shot in the dark but have them disconnect the battery for ten minutes or so and then see if it will allow a jump start.

Relayed that info to the service mgr at Pep Boys and he went out and disconnected it himself. He gave it fifteen minutes before trying it and it started normally with no jump needed!! The anti theft immobilizer had been activated..nowhere online or in talking with a Nissan tech online and another one in the dealership where the car originated...had any information about this problem except for insisting it was a dead battery.

Perhaps Nissan does not want it publicized that a battery disconnect "fixes" the problem? And also overrides the anti theft immobilization. At any rate we did nothing to cause it by using out two intelli-keys...as long as the keys are legit, a person should be able to play Mary had a little lamb with the door chimes and not cause this kind of problem.

Anyway..fixed and only cost about $200.00 including the cheap rental, a Chevy HHR..shuddering at the thought of driving that thing. Thanks for listening...hope it helps someone, somewhere.

 

Glad to hear it looks like your issue was resolved. Good to know as well that we can "fix" the immobilizer by basically power cycling the car.

 

Similar thing happen to me, I jump started it but only after I let the jumper cables sit for about 5 minutes will pumping juice from my bros altima.


I killed it by leaving it in ACC mode listening to music for 5 minutes.

 

5 minutes of def leppard at 135 decibles will kill both ears and batteries.

As an aside, the batteries on the Maxima are not even close to being the same quality as the rest of the car.

 

Tonight I left a restaurant with my elderly mother and when I tried to start up my Maxima it just "locked up". It had unlocked as usual with the button on the door handle, and I put my foot on the brake and hit the start button. The dash lit up and stayed on, with check engine, brake and a few other lights on, and the door ajar warning on. The overhead lights stayed on for about 5 minutes and then went off and wouldn't come back on. The power locks would not work, nor would most anything else electrical, but the outside lights worked fine and the seat heaters were working! It had me totally baffled and I called roadside assistance to get a tow. While I was waiting I started searching online with my phone and found this thread. I then disconnected the battery and waited about 10 minutes. Once I reconnected the battery the car started right up.

So to the original poster, thank you for posting the resolution! It saved me from a big headache!

 

Did y'all dine at the same restaurant? Ay clue whats causing this?