Hi guys. I've been reading some of the posts on here for the last few days and I've got a question. My 2000 Maxima I bought last summer with the engine locked up after an overheating. I just finished replacing the motor and got it running. It starts fine, smooth idle, but it wont take the gas, gets up to 3000 rpm and just drops off. I drove it up the road the first time as soon as I got it running, no lack of power just wont really go if you give it a lot of gas, feather it and it's just fine. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter? or could it be something more. The SES light is on, but as of today I don't have a working scan tool, tomorrow I will fix that though. I was just wondering if anybody might have an idea? I'm not too familiar with the bugs in Nissans after initial start ups. When I replaced the motor I changed the upper intake, front timing cover and both crank position sensors, and anything else that was different between the engines. The motor came from a 01 model so there wasn't much to change.
Thank's in Advance!

P.S. I love the site! very informative.

 

get ses codes then report back for more help...most will tell you that.

 

first off do you have any CEL-check engine light

 

It says he does in the OP...

 

I'm going today to get a scan tool, I was just wondering if I might have missed something while installing the new engine. I've worked at a GM, Subaru Dealership garage for three years and I've swapped out many engines and each and everyone usually has it's own bugs depending on the brand, but this is the first nissan engine I've swapped out. Lots of vacuum lines!!!!!!!!! I have one that I'm not sure about, and nowhere for it to hook up, it looks like the vent from the transmission. Other than that, everything seemed to fall into place. Thanks again, and I'll get back after I get the codes out.

 

the one from the transmission is the breathe hose and hooks up nowhere it simply breathes just leave it be. If you got the engine from an 01 and dropped it in your 00 there wouldn't be a difference from my knowledge. Getting the codes is the best place to start so you won't be just guessing.

 

OK, I got the codes.

p1320 ignition system primary circuit fault.

p0110 Intake air temp sensor circuit fault.

I also found a secondary ground wire off that I have no idea where it goes, it's got a female spade type connector on one end and is bolted to the firewall beside the tranny. small gauge wire.

 

Usually an inability to go over 3k rpm is MAF...

 

Got that part fixed I think, grounded the extra wire to the tranny, made sure the other grounds were tight, popped up a misfire on #3 cylinder so I replaced the coil. I've drove it up the road and also revved it up before and it done just fine. Still popping up the p1320 though. Also it wants to die after it's idled a few minutes, I found a crack in the rubber air tube between the throttle body and the air filter. I put some clear silicone on it to seal it. Other than that it's running smooth on the road. This car has also sat since last August so I figure what little gas that's in it is bad. I'm going to get some premium for it after while. I'm trying to run the old out first. The person I got the car from didn't believe in servicing it, but the paint and body are in excellent shape, the interior just needs a good shampooing.

 

OK, I have cleaned the MAF, and run some high octane through it and I still have no power. It's running better though, just won't accelerate like it should. When it's cold it won't rev smoothly but after it warms up it revs fine. Driving on the road, if I granny it the car runs smooth, but if I floor it, it just doesn't go. Like it's not getting enough fuel. No codes. I just can't think of anything else except maybe a clogged fuel filter.

 

change the fuel filter, especially since you said the previous owner didn't do much in way of upkeep...

 

ok, I've finally got the car running smooth, now the instrument cluster has quit. I drove it earlier and it was fine, went back out later and the cluster wasn't working, throws the p0464 and p0500 codes, fuel level and speed sensor. I replaced the fuse and hit the switch, POP! I was thinking maybe something got wet as it's been raining today. Has anyone else had anything like this?

 

BAD GROUND!!

 

I've had the 1320 code now for over a year. No other codes and my car runs fine.

 

which one?????

Also reverse lights don't work and the shift lock stays engaged. I tried disconnecting the VSS and the fuel level sensor to see if that would stop it from popping the fuse. I tried putting a jumper wire in fuse box to see if everything was still working and it was, the wire gets hot real quick so I know there is a short somewhere. I only left it in a few seconds so not to burn anything up. I'm just stumped, everything was ok one minute then the next it's not. Car still runs fine just no instrument cluster. still the same codes. P0464, P0500. also a few more from starting it up without the airbox in.

UPDATE:
I just finished pulling the cluster, I unhooked the harness from it and tried another fuse, popped it right away. So I know that's not the problem. I think my alternator is going or gone, could this be the reason for it blowing the cluster fuse? I don't have a good wiring schematic, all I've got is the haynes manual. Also all codes are gone except for the fuel level and VSS.