Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
Instead of turning the igniton key to crank the motor at first, only turn the key a quarter way as if you just want to run your accessories,then, after a second or two, let her crank, by doing this you will activate the fuel pump which will allow instant fuel to your injectors, and thus a creating a cleaner start up.
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
Re: Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
Originally posted by DRVLKEuSTOLEiT
Instead of turning the igniton key to crank the motor at first, only turn the key a quarter way as if you just want to run your accessories,then, after a second or two, let her crank, by doing this you will activate the fuel pump which will allow instant fuel to your injectors, and thus a creating a cleaner start up.
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
Instead of turning the igniton key to crank the motor at first, only turn the key a quarter way as if you just want to run your accessories,then, after a second or two, let her crank, by doing this you will activate the fuel pump which will allow instant fuel to your injectors, and thus a creating a cleaner start up.
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
Re: Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
Originally posted by DRVLKEuSTOLEiT
Instead of turning the igniton key to crank the motor at first, only turn the key a quarter way as if you just want to run your accessories,then, after a second or two, let her crank, by doing this you will activate the fuel pump which will allow instant fuel to your injectors, and thus a creating a cleaner start up.
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
Instead of turning the igniton key to crank the motor at first, only turn the key a quarter way as if you just want to run your accessories,then, after a second or two, let her crank, by doing this you will activate the fuel pump which will allow instant fuel to your injectors, and thus a creating a cleaner start up.
I'm sure many of you know this simple trick but it really works for EFI cars,and especially for below freezing cold start ups!
NO I'm not a mechanic but yes my brother is a mechanical engineer and he does this every time in his Dakota Sport PU.
The other day I tested this out on the Max, it was below freezing, and I did a regular full key turn at start up. Then the next day I tried the other method. The full ignition at cold start up took 3 cranks to turn over, and the other method started instantly!!!
Give it a try,
$PDP$
One question though, I thought when you turn your key to the ON position (before cranking the motor), you automatically power the fuel pump for a few seconds. Doesn't that do the same thing? If you haven't starved the motor of gas, would it really make a difference?
Just wonderin' ... I might go upstairs and look up the service manual if I have some free time at work today, but someone feel free to beat me to it!
My Max seems to start just fine with one crank, even during winter when I hadn't started it for 3 weeks. Maybe your quick start was just coincidence? Not doubting you, but just wanting to understand the 'technical' advantage!
Re: Re: Sounds interesting...
Originally posted by SuDZ
9 inches. Man you lucky. I am still waiting for the whtite stuff here.
SuDZ
9 inches. Man you lucky. I am still waiting for the whtite stuff here.
SuDZ
Re: Re: Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
I think he meant the ON position and wasn't quite clear. In accessory position, the feul pump does not "energize"
DW
DW
Originally posted by pocketrocket
Good tip, I'm going to try it the next time I start my Maxima.
One question though, I thought when you turn your key to the ON position (before cranking the motor), you automatically power the fuel pump for a few seconds. Doesn't that do the same thing? If you haven't starved the motor of gas, would it really make a difference?
Just wonderin' ... I might go upstairs and look up the service manual if I have some free time at work today, but someone feel free to beat me to it!
My Max seems to start just fine with one crank, even during winter when I hadn't started it for 3 weeks. Maybe your quick start was just coincidence? Not doubting you, but just wanting to understand the 'technical' advantage!
Good tip, I'm going to try it the next time I start my Maxima.
One question though, I thought when you turn your key to the ON position (before cranking the motor), you automatically power the fuel pump for a few seconds. Doesn't that do the same thing? If you haven't starved the motor of gas, would it really make a difference?
Just wonderin' ... I might go upstairs and look up the service manual if I have some free time at work today, but someone feel free to beat me to it!
My Max seems to start just fine with one crank, even during winter when I hadn't started it for 3 weeks. Maybe your quick start was just coincidence? Not doubting you, but just wanting to understand the 'technical' advantage!
This works best on a fuel system that isn't able to keep the fuel pressure in overnight. If your fuel system is good then the residual pressure should be enough to give you a smooth start.
But, it couldn't hurt...
But, it couldn't hurt...
My 96se (had since new) turns over as soon as i turn the key to start. I just installed a new starter/ignition switch at 156,000 plus miles. Also i use Amsoil 0w-30 full synthetic oil/filter, and my battery is a sears die hard 100 month gold series (new nissan fuel filter every 8,000 miles). I mean literally as soon as i turn the key i get a smooth clean energized start. I then allow it to warm up for 5-6 minutes before slowly driving off, i never race it. Could you guys please give me some feed back, i just want to hear a difference of opinion/experiences. 96se auto 157,800 miles.Thanks!
Re: Re: Re: Sounds interesting...
Originally posted by SprintMax
son you don't need 9 inches.. you can get your little tool to bring white stuff if you try hard enough..
son you don't need 9 inches.. you can get your little tool to bring white stuff if you try hard enough..
How many quarts of oil does a maxima engine take? is 10w-30 the best oil grade for maxima's engine?
Originally posted by Steve Marsh
My 96se (had since new) turns over as soon as i turn the key to start. I just installed a new starter/ignition switch at 156,000 plus miles. Also i use Amsoil 0w-30 full synthetic oil/filter, and my battery is a sears die hard 100 month gold series (new nissan fuel filter every 8,000 miles). I mean literally as soon as i turn the key i get a smooth clean energized start. I then allow it to warm up for 5-6 minutes before slowly driving off, i never race it. Could you guys please give me some feed back, i just want to hear a difference of opinion/experiences. 96se auto 157,800 miles.Thanks!
My 96se (had since new) turns over as soon as i turn the key to start. I just installed a new starter/ignition switch at 156,000 plus miles. Also i use Amsoil 0w-30 full synthetic oil/filter, and my battery is a sears die hard 100 month gold series (new nissan fuel filter every 8,000 miles). I mean literally as soon as i turn the key i get a smooth clean energized start. I then allow it to warm up for 5-6 minutes before slowly driving off, i never race it. Could you guys please give me some feed back, i just want to hear a difference of opinion/experiences. 96se auto 157,800 miles.Thanks!
Re: Re: Re: Want Smoother Start Up's?? Click Here !!!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dwapenyi
[B]I think he meant the ON position and wasn't quite clear. In accessory position, the feul pump does not "energize"
DW
Yes I meant the ON position. I asked my bro about this method preventing less wear and tear on the starter and he said Yes!
Sorry for any confusion.
BTW.. Do those Millie Migila's look like the 5th Gen stock 17's???
[B]I think he meant the ON position and wasn't quite clear. In accessory position, the feul pump does not "energize"
DW
Yes I meant the ON position. I asked my bro about this method preventing less wear and tear on the starter and he said Yes!
Sorry for any confusion.
BTW.. Do those Millie Migila's look like the 5th Gen stock 17's???
Re: Re: Re: Sounds interesting...
Originally posted by SprintMax
son you don't need 9 inches.. you can get your little tool to bring white stuff if you try hard enough..
son you don't need 9 inches.. you can get your little tool to bring white stuff if you try hard enough..
I always knew that Sprint character was a sick b@$tard. Just teasing ya Sprint.
Thanks for the tip DRVLKE. I live in sunny CA but, hey, it can't hurt anyway.
Originally posted by Steve Marsh
My 96se (had since new) turns over as soon as i turn the key to start. I just installed a new starter/ignition switch at 156,000 plus miles. Also i use Amsoil 0w-30 full synthetic oil/filter, and my battery is a sears die hard 100 month gold series (new nissan fuel filter every 8,000 miles). I mean literally as soon as i turn the key i get a smooth clean energized start. I then allow it to warm up for 5-6 minutes before slowly driving off, i never race it. Could you guys please give me some feed back, i just want to hear a difference of opinion/experiences. 96se auto 157,800 miles.Thanks!
My 96se (had since new) turns over as soon as i turn the key to start. I just installed a new starter/ignition switch at 156,000 plus miles. Also i use Amsoil 0w-30 full synthetic oil/filter, and my battery is a sears die hard 100 month gold series (new nissan fuel filter every 8,000 miles). I mean literally as soon as i turn the key i get a smooth clean energized start. I then allow it to warm up for 5-6 minutes before slowly driving off, i never race it. Could you guys please give me some feed back, i just want to hear a difference of opinion/experiences. 96se auto 157,800 miles.Thanks!
My understanding was that it still protects and exhibits the characteristics of a 30 weight oil (primary concern), but that it provides better lubrication, whereas the oil protects against "dry start ups" when most engine wear tends to take place. I have notice this during my morning warm ups i mean the oil gets up there! i believe 5w-20 is way too thin if anything. Besides you do not want a oil to become too thick over time on you (lubrication starvation/poor fuel economy/engine drag etc)Check out www.amsoil.com, i appreciate your response, thanks Happy New Year
!
!
Originally posted by Sexima
YOU GUYS ARE COMPLAINING THAT YOU HAVE SNOW!??!?!
DANG IT... I NEED SNOW DOWN HERE SO I DON'T HAVE TO GO TO SCHOOL...
ARGARGARGARG
YOU GUYS ARE COMPLAINING THAT YOU HAVE SNOW!??!?!
DANG IT... I NEED SNOW DOWN HERE SO I DON'T HAVE TO GO TO SCHOOL...
ARGARGARGARG
Originally posted by Steve Marsh
My understanding was that it still protects and exhibits the characteristics of a 30 weight oil (primary concern), but that it provides better lubrication, whereas the oil protects against "dry start ups" when most engine wear tends to take place. I have notice this during my morning warm ups i mean the oil gets up there! i believe 5w-20 is way too thin if anything. Besides you do not want a oil to become too thick over time on you (lubrication starvation/poor fuel economy/engine drag etc)Check out www.amsoil.com, i appreciate your response, thanks Happy New Year
!
My understanding was that it still protects and exhibits the characteristics of a 30 weight oil (primary concern), but that it provides better lubrication, whereas the oil protects against "dry start ups" when most engine wear tends to take place. I have notice this during my morning warm ups i mean the oil gets up there! i believe 5w-20 is way too thin if anything. Besides you do not want a oil to become too thick over time on you (lubrication starvation/poor fuel economy/engine drag etc)Check out www.amsoil.com, i appreciate your response, thanks Happy New Year
!
as far as dry start ups are concerned, no oil is on you internals when you start, so even friggin' 90 weight gear oil would "get up there". it's what goes on after lubrication that matters most. look at it this way, if you were gettin' nasty with a hottie, would you rather have ky or water for a lube?!
I thought that you should use the 0w-30 for cold weather cuz the 0 lets the oil flow easier in cold weather (real cold)
use the 5w-30 in warmer weather
this is what my car manual says too
use the 5w-30 in warmer weather
this is what my car manual says too
Originally posted by Steve Marsh
My understanding was that it still protects and exhibits the characteristics of a 30 weight oil (primary concern), but that it provides better lubrication, whereas the oil protects against "dry start ups" when most engine wear tends to take place. I have notice this during my morning warm ups i mean the oil gets up there! i believe 5w-20 is way too thin if anything. Besides you do not want a oil to become too thick over time on you (lubrication starvation/poor fuel economy/engine drag etc)Check out www.amsoil.com, i appreciate your response, thanks Happy New Year
!
My understanding was that it still protects and exhibits the characteristics of a 30 weight oil (primary concern), but that it provides better lubrication, whereas the oil protects against "dry start ups" when most engine wear tends to take place. I have notice this during my morning warm ups i mean the oil gets up there! i believe 5w-20 is way too thin if anything. Besides you do not want a oil to become too thick over time on you (lubrication starvation/poor fuel economy/engine drag etc)Check out www.amsoil.com, i appreciate your response, thanks Happy New Year
!
Whoah, that's not quite right.
5W30 in winter, or all seasons.
0W30 in extreme winter, like if your Maxima lived in Alaska or Siberia.
10W30 in summer.
DW
5W30 in winter, or all seasons.
0W30 in extreme winter, like if your Maxima lived in Alaska or Siberia.
10W30 in summer.
DW
Originally posted by j-95G
dude, i don't think 0w-30 is a great idea in colder weather. it will be thinner than say, 5w-30. thinner is good for more ponies, but you still need protection. i run 0w-30 in the summer, and 5w-30 in the winter. not alot of difference, but the 0w-30 is actually thinner.
dude, i don't think 0w-30 is a great idea in colder weather. it will be thinner than say, 5w-30. thinner is good for more ponies, but you still need protection. i run 0w-30 in the summer, and 5w-30 in the winter. not alot of difference, but the 0w-30 is actually thinner.
Originally posted by GTRBlkMax97
How the hell are you 14.2 and NA? with an exhaust and an intake? just curious at how that is possible, is that elevation adjusted?
How the hell are you 14.2 and NA? with an exhaust and an intake? just curious at how that is possible, is that elevation adjusted?
SuDZ
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