hello all i have owned my 1998 nissan 200sx se-r for about 4 years now but imm looking for a maxima i know the sr20 motor in and out but the 3000 v6 i dont know anything it has 190k on it body is good im just wondering what i should check when im looking at it any help is appreciated thanks again

 

I would not call 190K on a VQ high mileage. If you live in snow country, check the radiator support where the engine cross member mounts for rust. Look down towards the power steering pump (pass rear of engine) for evidence of leaking valve cover gasket. This is easily fixable, but good for negotiations. Engine should be good if it was reasonably maintained. Also look for oil leaks in the bellhousing area, this gets spendy (RMS or upper oil pan).

 

its 1200 obo im going down with 1000 but i dont want to get blinded by the low price it has a damaged fender but thats a quick trip to the junkyard theres a bunch up here i just dont want to blow $1000 on something and have to work on it for 6 months when i could just get one for 3500 thats all good

 

Scan the codes with obd2 scanner. Check radiator support and just for rust generally. Check for oil leaks anywhere. I sold my 98 with 280k and was still running great.

 

190 is nothing for a 4th gen if motor and tranny are good u should get another 100k out of it Just check what the guys have told u on the post above 1200 is a good price also

 

I would do a normal check for problems. Be aware if the suspension hasn't been replaced that can get expensive, I'd its all original it probably needs a complete over haul.

 

c'mom its a vq. if well maintained, it'll get you to 400k..

 

Look at the gasket between transmission and the engine if there is oil leak , power steering pump and make sure the water pump with chain been replaced

 

I would not be afraid to buy a VQ with 190k miles. My current one out of 4, has 244k miles on it and purrs like a kitten. Still has alot of power, the only problem with the engine now is leaking coolent from the water pump. Which is normal wear. Even with 244k miles, the maxima starts right up with the
-40 winters here. Yes i would look under the radiator like the others said, they do rust out. Out of all 4 of my 4 gen maximas, none of them have left me on the side of the road and all of them had high miles.

 

When does the water pump usually go?

 

Manuals don't have this gasket correct? OP Is it a manual or auto? whichever it is pay you upmost attention to the drivetrain. Listen for whinning (not hub bearring sound, it will be a swirling sound that comes and goes) and look for tranny leakage. especially from where the inspection plate is. If so the tranny will have to come out.

I have 275,000 miles on my engine and the only leak I have is the tranny and that swirling sound (which I hear the tranny can last like this for quite some time) but my new tranny will be going in hopefully in the next week or two.

All the engine gaskets are very easy to replace and not very expensive at all. I would only suggest replacing the waterpump if you are getting alot of timing chain rattle (another expensive cost) and most people don't feel it's worth replacing the timing chain and just buy a junk yard engine and swap it out.

 

This post is misleading and just plain wrong.

There is no gasket, manual or auto. There is no need to replace the timing chain. No need to replace the water pump unless its leaking, or you have it opened up already.

 

how much is the person selling it for? I wouldnt pay more than $2000 for it.

 

Test the coilpacks if it's a 1999.

He already posted that it's $1,200 OBO.

 

OH! for 1200? thats straight then man.

Check the lower rad support, make sure the car feels muscular, look for any signs of leaks, struts, and exhaust.

If all that in decent shape, then buy it. Thats a real deal price

 

I second this but it wouldn't be a deal breaker. You can get cheap and easy from a junk yard. I've had my time with these, and it's not just 1999 it's all years (same coilpack). So if it's throwing any codes (knock sensor code means the knock is doing it's job not that it's bad) the other code is the one you need to pay attention to. Cause when you get the other code to go away the knock will (normally) go away with it. If it sputters, my first check is the coilpacks forsure.

 

obviously make sure you drive it and this goes with any car not just a maxima
remove the oil fill cap with the engine off and check for sludge that could be a deal breaker
then start it to check for blowby pull the dip stick and make sure the oil is clean and full this will determine the service history

check the front end and trunk for mismatched paint new headlight new tail light radiator stuff like that this will let you know if it has been wrecked
lower control arms if theyre rusty theyre original and may need to be replaced
sway bar links

i have 230k and the only problem i have is that my fuel pump is starting to go

the rear calipers tend to stick on 4th gens so if you could bring a jack and jack up all 4 sides and spin the wheels

and of course radiator support and coils

 

I think he meant Rear Main Seal.

 

This

This +another 100K miles.. Im damn near at 460-470K and I beat on her everyday. Stock Engine and Trans none the less...

This

 

Bought my i30 with 210k and my 4th gen max with 240k. Both still running strong.

 

I would not worry about the motor. Its everything else around it.........

 

QFT

 

My 99 is currently at 190k on the ODO, with mods, just make sure it has been kept up with. My engine has seen some rowdy abuse, and STILL drives perfectly fine for me (knocks on wood)

 

ORLY? Hows that 00VI?

 

you need to come back to SA and find out...hehe

As you can also tell, my sig has NOT been updated

 

Its ok i got my Maxima with 216000 miles on it. The only things my car had where the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. Not very hard,with gaskets for the intake, your looking about $70.00. Then the main on the trans, but not enough to warrant dropping the trans. I will put a built 3.0 in the car and fix it then. Dont worry about the miles,they will run forever. As a nissan tech check all the front supports for rust. Certain parts of the country are known for it.

 

- Valve Cover Oil Leaks - this is the most likely cause of leaks. Drive it with only the fan not a/c on and check for burning smell from oil coming out of rear valve cover gasket on hot exhaust. Car needs to be at op temp to smell it. Get under car and look for oil. they might clean up the top but not the bottom.

- Low oil - Check the oil. If there is a chronic oil leak, oil may be low which might tip you off that it has been run low alot.

- Leaking water pump will be hard to diagnose because it is usually a small drip leak but it will leave a puddle after you shut the car off. Can be confused with condensation from AC. But if it is 200k plus, I'd bet it has been replaced. This is an expensive repair because you have to get into the timing chain.

- Suspension - it could be original suspension which would mean most parts should be replaced. On a test drive, the car should be pretty tight if the suspension is ok.

I would look at the struts and see if you can identify them as aftermarket because most people don't replace them with stock. If they aren't aftermarket but are just basic black, they are stock and prob original. Look at the strut boots. If original, then they are in tatters. If they are not one piece, then they are aftermarket. That will give you an idea if you are going to have to replace them.

- CV Boots - Also, look at the cv boots to see if torn.

I would expect to see one or more of these problems with that many miles but nothing that can't be fixed over time.

 

The only other thing I can think of that hasn't been mentioned is to pull up the trunk liner to see if there is any rust from water getting by the trunk lid seal over time.

 

Fix that water pump now, I just lost my 97 se because I over looked the small drip of coolant. I was so pissedcause it could've been avoided. so to make myself feel better I picked up a 04 today...