I said it before and i'll say it again, maxima's are badass cars. I decided to take my car to the track to see what it can do and I was very proud.
Even though I had 9 troubled codes and only have a CAI, headers, and a lightweight crank pulley she ran 14.2 in 29 degrees last wednesday. This is a major accomplishment for me because a few months when I started I could only do 15.5 stock and inexperienced.

I'm actually getting better because I managed to get a 2.1 on my 60'




Now if I can get rid of those codes, lighten my load a little and get a cooler day i'm sure I can run high 13's

 

Man! 15.5 to a 14.2, that's pretty damn impressive.

 

Thanks man. There's still room for improvement so I'm taking it one day at a time.

 

Nice times. Were you on regular street tires? When you said 29 degrees, was that celsius?

 

No I was on 18" slicks and I'm from Canada so we measure temperature in Celcius.

 

What were the codes?

 

1)P1283E
2)P1283E PEND
3)P1278E
4)P1148E PEND-Closed loop
5)P1279E MIL
6)P1276E
7)P1276 PEND
8)P1278E
9)P0400G PEND
10)P0430

 

The best way.

 

So no spacers, BOP or catback?

 

The only mechanical bolt on performance mod on the car right now is the CAI, headers/exhaust, and the light weight crank pulley. I didn't include the BOP because it's just a plate and you can't get any noticeable gains without the spacers. The codes on the other hand is what's probably hindering the max potential. I am confident if I get the dangerous codes off and race on a cool day with my spacers re-installed I might just hit that high 13's

 

Slicks are the biggest helper on these runs that you did. But BOP is beneficial without spacers. Especially on a drag run, your rpm aren't dropping in the area were bop gives small loss of hp/tq. PLus with you being on slicks you might have launched out of the loss range also.

 

7 codes really, getting rid of one of some of those codes gets rid of multiple lol

P1276 seems like o2 sensor harness codes, probably doesnt affect performance much at WOT seeing as though the car doesnt use the o2 sensors to monitor AFR's anymore but may affect MPG for regular daily driving...

then again there is a few that i can see messes with performance... get em fix and enjoy a new PB again

 

"Bolt ons". I wouldn't say tires are bolt on performance mods, it just allows you to launch at a higher rpm with minimal wheel spin. It's aguable. You could probably achieve the same results by learning and understanding you clutch and power the car produces. I just haven't had that much experience, wanted the max results early.

Why I said it's aguable it's because I ran a 14.6 with street tires and a few of my runs I ran as low as 14.9 so it's all comes up to your skill level.

I've been doing everything to get the dangerous codes off doing everything my mechanic tells me from disconnecting the G-force fuel saver chip, replaced the MAF sensor, replace the MAF connector, both feul ratio sensors, and removes my spacers and all 9 codes come back. I been to the mechanic several times trying to figure out the codes to the point where I'm tired and he's refusing to work on my car for free.

He basically said he's not gonna do anything on the car again so I'm on my own until I get money to take it to another mechanic to see it he can figure it out.

 

I agree.



DTC P1283 A/F SENSOR S1 B2 <-- Sensor heater
DTC P1278 A/F SENSOR S1 B2 <-- response time/heater, harness
DTC P1148 CLOSED LOOP CONTROL <--Because O2 sensor codes
DTC P1279 A/F SENSOR S1 B1 <-- response time/heater, harness
DTC P1276 A/F SENSOR S1 B1 <-- High voltage, harness.
DTC P0400 EGR FUNCTION <- Doesn't affect power, remove it maybe.
DTC P0430 THREE WAY CATALYST FUNCTION <-- Because you don't have any catalysts with the headers.

 

I know what the codes are, I just can't get rid of them. I replaced the MAF sensor and connector, the both air fuel ratio sensors, removed the spacer" as per my mechanic" and cleared the codes and on my way to work they all came back. I know the P0430 and P0400 is due to the headers install but I've change everything that's affiliated with the rest of codes in attempt to get rid of it but that didn't work.

 

Meh those codes dont affect performance much to see a differance at the track. I have those same codes and ran a 14.0 @100mph with a 2.2 60ft and all i have is a 3.5 swap, intake and stock 3.0 header and y-pipe. Open exhaust.

 

i ran a 13.4 with these codes and no tune

 

That's good still. The 6thgens are probably the heaviest of them all so weight could of been a factor

 

I have the 5.5 gen equivalent, no primary O2 sensors connected and all associated codes with that situation and my dyno didn't complain.

Does your track close for the winter? If it does, get there at the latest date and run, preferably later in the evening, or, watch the weather and head out on a cool day.

My track closes in November so hopefully I can sneak a run in and see what this little guy is capable of.

 

yea..i think its a lot more in this 6th gen the way its sits now ..even with the codes. but the smart thing to do would be to just get rid of them. the only thing they are really affecting is your gas mileage

 

yea...did u weigh the car? what size wheels did u run on?

 

I tried everything and the code is still coming back. Replaced both air/fuel ratio sensors, new MAF sensor, spark plugs, PCV valve, and MAF sensor connector but the codes come right back. The car has a mind of it's own right now and no matter what I did the codes came right back. I'm fedup up with these codes. And it consumes fuel like crazy

Never weighed the car nor got it dyno'd. Don't even know who does it. I ran 14.2 with 17" rims and drag radials in the spring 12 degrees celcius and ran the same time with 18"" rims and slicks in the summer. But I'm sure if I can run this time in 28 degrees celcius weather with codes I can run high 13's in the fall when it's cooler. Gonna put back on my spacers too...

 

well while your car is heavier datdude20 ran that 13.4 on street tires, not radials lol... some of these codes shouldnt be so difficult to remove

 

Don't know who that is and what car he drives. I don't know any stock 6thgen maxima's other than krazy6 who broke the 13 second barrier with a stock motor. Since racing I've learn there's more to racing than having a fast car. Temperature, DA, preperation, skill, experience, track conditions, etc... So I can't really say why that's all I'm doing but it's pretty good for a 6thgen max with lambo door hinges, full interior, a rear bodykit bumper, and only been to the track about 7 times.

As for those codes that's a whole next story. I changed everything that affiliates with those codes, cleared them to see everyone come right back. I know about the codes that won't affect the engines performance, but it's that fuel consumption code that gets to me because it guzzles gas and I can't get it off. So until I can save some money to take it to another mechanic to get a 2nd opinion because the mechanic who did the engine swap basically kicked me under the bus so until then I'm driving it.

 

nice times man im suprised that you have so many codes

 

UMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM he did post in your thread
Seriously???... i ran 13.7 as an auto on stock motor... did you ever even search enough to find that out?... the 13's barrier have been broken on multiple occasions bro, not if you said not many broke the 12's barrier on motor then cool... werent you on radials???, people have been breaking 13's on street tires with these 3.5's for quite some time now lol... your tires and exhaust and i think people can break 13's given a decent temp...

 

You lack understanding and reading skills. I said "I" haven't seen a stock maxima run 13's because there's few on youtube and unlike you I only joined the org less than a year now and I don't spend my entire day running through every single thread. 13.7 on a stock maxima? I'll never believe that until I see it with my own eyes, not saying it's not true, I'm saying you don't know what guys have in their car so all I can do it doubt. Besides you're talking about 5thgen and lower, I have a 6thgens and the only 6thgen "video" "I" seen "myself" running high 12's to low 13's is krazy6 and we all no he's not the average racer. Maybe my car can hit 13's but I doubt it will do it with troubled codes, full interior, in the summer with a driver who's only been to the tracks about 7 times.

We live in different countries, we run at different tracks, we have different cars, and our skills and knowledge about racing is totally different. So there's no need to compare who's success, giving advice would be greatly appreciated....

 

Don't know if you seen my videos but last season I was running a disappointing 15.5 when I just started. Few months later I did what everyone said is impossible which is to get a whole second shaved of with a few bolt ons. I shaved 1.3 sec

Raced a 13.7 civic
Beat a Camaro on slicks
A stock Dodge Charger
Another 14.2 run
Turbo'd RSX
Infinit G35
And this twin turb BMW 128i. Lead him until about 3/4 of the way and his twin turbo kicked in
So from doing 15.5 in a 6thgen to 14.2 isn't good enough I don't know what is.

 

 

lighter wheels will help alot

 

I have 18" with slicks that weighs 18olbs and 17" with drag radials that weigh 18.5lbs except I ran the funny things I ran the exact time just different tempetatures and troubled codes

 

oooooooooooooooooooo ok....welp...get rid of the codes and tune it.

 

13.4 @105 and then parted the damn car out

 

 

I love my car too much to even let that thought cross my mind

 

This is the 18" slicks with 18X9 18lbs


17" drag radials 18.5lbs 17X8
I'll try the radials tomorrow and see if I can run a better time.

 

Track really sucked today because they started 35mins late, over 50 cars, and someone busted their rear axle spilling oil that took well over an hour for the clean up crew. Only ran one more race and called it a wrap. After I swapped out my wheels another spill leaving one lane closed with well over 50 cars. It wasn't my night at all...