Thanks guys (and girls) for checking in on this thread. Let me first appologise as this won't be anything new. I've done the research and found nothing concrete. Hundreds of threads and thousands of speculations. I thought I try one more time and see if there is any help out there.

Vehicle:
1997 Nissan Maxima GLE
82K on the ODO
Auto
One owner car and ALL (i mean everything) documention from the day is was bought to every oil change is with the car.
Prestine condition through and through. Owner is a close friend and I believe him when he says that he's never had an issue like this.

Issue:
When I first bought my daughter the car, it was perfect. On her second day of driving after an leaving it parked overnight for about 9hrs, the car started perfectly and then at the stop sign about 2 miles away (while sitting waiting for another car) the car died. Then about an hour later it just died again. I've got no "Check Engine" light on so I assumed no codes thrown. It did it again a day later in regular driving (while she was driving). I took the car and drove it for about 3 days and it was perfect. At the time it did seem like it took a bunch work to get up and go on a planned hard acceleration. Chalked it up to a normal characteristic of the car (never owned a maxima prior).
Gave the car back to her and it continued to do it to her on the next day and even started to stumble on the freeway. She said all the lights came on and it started to "chug". She kept tapping the throttle and it came out of it but she was scared. I took the car back and drove it without issue. Then, all of a sudden when I started a normal acceleration from stop (Red light) it completely died on me. After each stall, the car starts right back up.

Attempted repairs to date:
I replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner
Changed the air filter
checked Coolant level
Battery measuers at 12.2v when not running and at 13.7v when running.

It stalled just sitting at a light. Not on decel, but just sitting there. Then ran fine after an easy restart.

HELP!!! I'm going to put $60 into an MAF off the BAY, and see if anything changes. It's a relatively cheap check. If it doesn't change anything at all I'm going to rule out the MAF.

From what i've read, if it was a Crank Position sensor, or some of the other, I would have gotten a code. I've got nothing code wise.

Anybody have any ideas???

 

^Dont throw $60 down the drain on an ebay MAF

Does the CEL come on when the key is turned over as far as possible without actually turning the car on ?

 

also if it does, you scan anyway to make SURE there are no codes.

 

So the MAF's on ebay are garbage...

I'll check the codes again and see if it comes up with anything. I'll do the key trick on the car and see if the CEL stays on.

Man, I thought my BMW 750Li was complicated... just diagnosing this, from what i've read, is JUST NASTY.

 

My Money is on the MAF. Ive worked on several nissans where the MAF was bad but never threw a code. I wouldnt buy one on ebay. Try to get a working OEM from an org member or go buy a new one from Advanced auto.

 

Though I don't think this is the problem I figured it was worth mentioning that 13.7v is low for running voltage.

 

that has nothing to do with anything on this thread. and 13.7 is just fine for running voltage.

 

Just checked the running voltage again and it was 14.6. I really don't think that the Alt is the problem, but who knows.... man, I can build race cars, custom cycles, boats... you name it! But this thing is turning out to be quite the pain in the ****! Really just because it's so intermitent.

 

Definitely symptoms of a bad alternator

 

I'm leaning towards the MAF as well. I've had several fail on me on a few cars that i've owned over the years, and not one of them threw a code for it.

As other's have mentioned, don't get one from Ebay. Go to your local auto parts store and get one.

 

Yeah, alternator rarely has anything to do with a dying car 13.7v is low running voltage unless you have a reason for it to be that low. Regardless, OP posted again with 14.6v which is a much better reading.

 

The highest any of my alternators have ever put out was 14.5 at the first start of an install. My current one will peak at 14.1 and slowly drops to 13.8. With the ac on its common for mine to go down to 13.3.

 

If you believe the Nissan FSM, it says regulated voltage is from 14.1 to 14.7 volts. I checked 1994 through 2003, which were all the same spec.

 

Well my car is fcked up lol

 

scan it anyways my cel light is blowed so.hook it up.

 

I o i would not buy a maf sensor not your problem....what is it idling at in gear w/o ac on and in gear

 

Check for air leak, especially cracks on the big air hose between the manifold and maf.

 

Just fixed this problem on my 96 Maxima. No Codes and MAF tested fine on machine but i replaced mine anyways and haven't had that problem reoccur since.

 

most likely the MAF. but also check the iacv.. might want to clean that up while your at it.

 

I'm just talkin out my ***, but random stalling could be a problem with the fuel pump. especially if it went 3 days of driving to make it stall again (burning a tank of gas) don't take my word for it because I am not experienced with your issue, but if it sounds reasonable then you may want to look into it

 

Does it stall when you have just started it up and are coming to a stop? This could be an IACV issue. Either way pull it off and clean it because it is no doubt dirty. I vote MAF for the likely culprit though and congrats on purchasing such a reliable car for your daughter. Smart purchase. If she takes car of it she will love it. Ok scratch that if YOU take care of it she will love it

 

LOL ... you sparked a random synapse resulting in yet another shot in the dark. Could the car have bad fuel? ... like water in the gas? I seem to remember something like the described symptoms many years ago when I bought Phillips gas near Boise, Idaho on a cross country run. (does Philllips even still exist?)

Live long, and Prosper

 

man, what a great group of people on this forum. Lots of response and willingness to help. I hope I can give back someday.

So I checked the CEL with the key all the way turned over and car not running. The light comes on and stays on. I'll scan it again tonight.

GAS: Gas is good and on it's third tank.

Alternator: When i first start the car it bounces from 14.2 - 14.6. After 15 mins of driving it was at 13.7. I think the Alt is fine.

Battery: Fairly new battery and turns the starter very well. Also, terminals are tight and fairly corrosion free.

Fuel filter: Changed at 78K. Car now has 82K.

Fuel Pump: You can hear the pumps running fine w/key in run position. they run for a second or two and then cut off (obviously after acheiving correct pressure.)

What is the IACV? I'm sure it will hit me like a ton of bricks when you tell me....

 

IACV = Idle Air Control Valve.
Its mounted next to the Throttle Body, near the firewall. Has a rectangular shape.

 

IACV= Idle Control Valve
It's connected to the TB= Throttle Body , a black plastic thing with two connectors on it one gray and one brown I think.
Does your car idle high and low and then it cuts off?
After the jerking on the highway did your daughter smell gas in the car , just a little?
I have changed and cleaned everything and it still happens to me. All left to change is the MAF and the fuel pump. I will upgrade my engine soon so I will deal with those later, but whatever you do , do not buy a cheap MAF from Ebay . From the dealer they will quote you about $500-600, but you can get one from a member or find one at a local parts dealer, if anything you can take it back. Or go to a junkyard and get one from there, that will be the cheap option.

 

Just seeing the thread now....

The symptoms you describe would lead me to check teh idle air control valve (IACV). This valve is actually a step motor that is supposed to open to allow air to bypass a closed TB and keep the engine running.

Sounds like your IACV is starting to crap out to me.

Clean the MAF and TB per how tos. Check teh IACV per FSM. The test for the IACV is a resistance test.

 

If you haven't done so, check your battery cables and grounds. And look inside the casing of the cables. I had a cable go bad from corrosion that I couldn't see until I peeled away a little of the insulation.

If that's not it I'd also lean towards the MAF. When mine went bad, the engine speed would drop like I drove into an air bag. I think it died at idle a couple of times too. IIRC, it wasn't throwing a CEL, at least not first. But before you shell out for a new one, you might try re-soldering the contacts inside. I did that and resurrected an old one, and it's still running fine. Somebody has a thread about doing that, with good pictures, but I can't find the link. You take the square top off, and there are three contact points that can break loose. Just solder them. The hard part is figuring out that you have to cut through the sealant to get the square top off, there aren't any screws.

I's also agree with vxm about air leaks at the air box. But if it doesn't idle rough, that's probably not it.

 

Car idles great and I haven't had it stumble or run rough yet.

As far as my daughter smelling gas???? 18yrs old.... she's really not pay all that much attention. It's "Dad... something is wrong with my car".

As for idle speed. When its warm, in gear and at a stop light or sign... It's about 750. Seems that it's about 850-900 when it's in PARK.

The stalling I had was when I was trying to accelerate after sitting at a light. So, if the IACV re-routes air when the throttle body was closed, this stall was when it was open. I'll check it though... I'll check everything if needed.

I'm really thinking MAF, but hell... that's an expensive guess. I'll try all else first. Think the wrecking yard option is a good option as if NOTHING changes, likelyhood of it being the exact same problem with a different MAF would be slim. If it doesn't change anything, I'm not out that much.

We'll see....

Thanks again everybody.

 

I had this problem also when my alt was bad, The cause of this was coolant leaking into it from the outlet right above it. Im not saying this is what your problem is , but this is what we call a no code diagnosis.I would highly reccomend you see a trusted automotive shop for some diag time, It will save you money in the long run and takes out all guess work.

And on the maf idea, i doubt it reason being generally theres other issues when you have with a bad maf. On a scan tool you can read the voltages at idle and partial throttle. If the values are off then suspect said part.

 

I had something like this happen once in my ford escort, and it turned out to be the battery terminal cables. They were so corroded that the electricty was not being conducted properly and all my lights in my dash lit up, acceleration buckeld, and then it just died. Start with this first, stupid easy fix for like $5 dollars

 

I also have a newly aquired 97 GLE with just under 70k, about 2 weeks later the alt went out, it could have been bad those couple weeks, but the car was new to me so I wasn't used to it's characteristics, when my alt went bad my ABS and Brake light came on, never the actual battery light. replaced alt seemed to fix it, but mine did not really seem to cause any driveability issues, but the electronics slowly lost power until I parked it, and replaced the alt a week later.

 

As you probably realized by now the problem is most likely electrical.

You still haven't scanned the codes - please do at the first opportunity.

Your alt/battery are fine as long as those battery terminals are clean and tight (no sudden loss of contact possible) otherwise those voltages wouldn't cause stalling, engine would be running even at 10V.

IACV most likely irrelevant as it stalled while you were trying to accelerate (you had throttle open so IACV couldn't possibly cut off the air).

I never worked on 4th gen but MAF sounds far fetched - you can disconnect it and the car probably still be drivable.

You replaced Engine Coolant Temp sensor recently - can you re-check its connector? IIRC 3rd gen ECU would shut the engine off immediately after disconnecting this sensor. I presume to protect the engine as ECU becomes 'blind' temperature- wise.

 

i know they're like $500-$600 from the dealer! but it seems to me like its a maf problem

go to a junkyard and get an oem maf off a 4th gen (95-99). it'll cost you $40-$60, takes 2 min to take off and really good chances it's perfectly fine.