An extremely common upgrade for Nissan vehicles keeping their factory wheels is the wheel spacer. It flushes out the wheel to the fender, and improves the stance of the car, in an extremely easy installation.

H&R's line of Track+ Spacers are made in Germany, and known for their stellar performance. Some of you may have been scared away from wheel spacers after hearing some horror stories of lesser brands, non-hubcentric spacers, or what you find on eBay. These are a different breed. These are constructed from a proprietary aluminum/magnesium alloy, are are extraordinarily strong and lightweight. They are hard anodized to prevent corrosion and provide durability.

These popular upgrades are available in different sizes, ranging from 5mm to 25mm to give you the look you're after. There are 2 styles of spacers available:

DRM - Bolt-on Style (sometimes called V2 or Type 2) - These have studs built into the spacer, and bolt onto your existing studs. The wheel then mounts to the spacer using the embedded studs.

DRS - Stud Replacement Style (sometimes called V1 or Type 1) - These come with longer replacement wheel studs, and the stock lugs are removed, and these installed in their place. The spacer then just slides over the lugs, and the wheel slides on after.

Now available in black anodized too! Helps to make the spacer disappear against the hub, and perfect for those with dark wheels.

We stock these spacers, and have the best pricing, and they are cheap to ship.

Here's some pictures, let me know if I can help!

H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers (Black) - DRS & DRM
H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers (Silver) - DRM Bolt-On Style
H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers (Silver) - DRS Stud Replacement


DRS Style Install



DRM Style Install

 

Nice, I like that these are black.

Question about the spacers/studs. If you wanted to go out 5mm more would you need to replace with extended lugs as well or is 5mm small enough of a difference that you can use the existing lugs? I'm running a 10mm spacer up front and want to try 15, but am curious if I need to go through the hassle of replacing the lugs too?

 

Great question..

There are different size studs that come in these kits, but they are shared in between kits. I think I might have some photos from the last time this came up. I'll check. I'm not sure what the breaks are.

 

I've been thinking of getting spacers for a little while now. I will take a look at the Stillen website.

 

The question had come up with a 370Z owner that wanted to move from a 15mm to a 20mm DRS spacer. These do have different stud lengths in them.

They are 1/2 a CM longer with the 20mm. Here are some images:





Not sure about the 10mm. I can pull a box if you want and see for sure.

 

Awesome! Let me know if I can help..

 

These spacers don't really look good with eibach springs right? Probably better with coilovers.

 

Why wouldn't they look good?

 

New to the org but have "watched" for a while, I was wondering what spacer would flush the front on a 20x8.5 with a +35 offset

 

I'm guessing because it won't give the same flush look it would give with coilovers. I don't know many people who use spacers with springs. I'm just guessing it would look bad though. I could be wrong.

 

Flush = horizontal

Drop = vertical

You figure it out the you want.

 

Oh okay, I guess I see what you mean. It should look improve the look regardless. Aside for fitment and looks, some people buy them for a slight performance tweak.

I guess people going for that "hella flush" look would want it on coilovers.

 

I am running a 10mm with extended lugs up front to clear my BBK and I am on Eibachs... I have no complaints and no issues. I was surprised at how much even 10mm makes in regards to flushing out the wheel and fender

 

hmm i might wait until I come across a BBK then so I can install it all at once

 

Are these spacers new to stillen's site? Anyone have opinions on how they compare to ichiba? I'm gonna assume that the quality is equal. Now I just need to compare prices.

If anyone here is interested in switching to these black spacers from your current ones, I'm interested in buying your used 20 or 25 mm spacers to help you offset the cost. PM me if interested!

 

I take that back. Lol.
Just ordered the black anodized set, 20mm and 25mm. Can't wait!

 

Nice!

 

Black Anodized spacers are moving! Can't wait for photos once guys have them installed!

 

Mine will come tomorrow. I'd love to install them and send pics, but my car is still at the body shop. It's killing me.

 

Ahh.. driving anything cool in the meantime?

 

I wish. Rental is a Ford Edge limited. Its alignment is off and driving me crazy. Oh well.

 

just ordered some 10mm in black cause one of my ichiba's got warped from a dumbass shop using an airgun to tighten the lugs. i swear anytime anyone else touches my car something happens that i dont like.

 

That really sucks. I'm pretty sure you told them about the spacers too. How were you able to tell that it was warped....vibrations?

 

For anyone who hasn't done so, remember to prep and paint those rusty rotor hats before installing those nice new black anodized spacers!

 

Yeah vibrations after getting a 4 wheel alignment + 4 wheel balance. They're the idiots who used the air gun. Never had a problem with any of my spacers before, but also have never had an air gun used on them before either so I don't know if I'm making assumptions and it is just coincidental they are warped now.

already done. now i wont have a weird silver spacer inbetween my gunmetal rim and black rotor

 

It's one thing to use an impact driver to remove your wheel/spacer nuts but for someone that does this kind of work for a living to install them with a gun is shear stupidity.....likely due to laziness. Yeah, once they are warped they're shot.

 

They aren't denying they used it either, just stating they torqued to Nissan OEM specs of 75 ft/lbs which technically should be okay if that is really what they torqued them to...

 

Where I work we actually use pneumatic torque wrenches that are specifically calibrated and have strict re-certifications schedules.
I can almost guarentee they (the shop) don't know the actual torque the gun is supplying.
They probably used the gun and then put the torque wrench on them and they all went click without any further turning.
I would be pi$$ed as well Ghozt.

 

What made you choose these lengths? I'm assuming 20mm for up front and 25 in back? Will the outcome be a very flush look?

 

Oh I was mad as hell, driving away from getting balance/4 wheel alignment feeling a vibration I turned right back around and said their alignment print-out must be wrong because its still messed up. they argued of course and started listing the other things that can cause vibrations. went home took the spacers off, no more vibrations. smh. not worth going to war over $100, i just wont go back.

 

Ya, 20mm front 25mm back. Went with that at recommendation of other members who used that setup with stock wheels (which I have still). They really do make a surprisingly big difference in the appearance. Seems strange that moving it out less than one inch could do so much, but it really helps the look. Haven't had any rubbing, it's perfect as far as I can tell. Had em on for several hundred miles now, just yesterday I re-checked the nuts to make sure they're still torqued properly. They were all good still. By the way, I'm on eibachs lowering springs, so the combination of the springs and the spacers has really come together nicely.

 

Great news. I want to order mine tomorrow. Would 25mm up front look ridic? What's the downside to that?

Also, there's only DRM available in 25mm. What's the real difference... Less bolt option for future wheels?

 

25mm all around might be fine, but I couldn't tell you that you won't get some rubbing. Maybe you'd be fine, but I don't know.

Using 20mm up front and 25mm in back looks well balanced. Definitely don't NEED to be any wider by using 25mm in front.

As for the DRM versus DRS, the difference is just the way you install it. The end result is the same, but with one of them the install is a piece of cake, and the other you actually have to replace all of the bolts for longer ones. I don't remember which is which, but I went with the ones that didn't require replacing the bolts. Take two minutes looking at the pictures of the different styles and you'll see what I mean. Get the ones that have 5 bolts already built into the spacer. Don't get the ones that just have holes through the spacer.

 

I'm running 25mm front and 27mm rear on an eibach drop and have no interference issues. The rear looks like I could even go a bit more on width but I'm going to leave it alone as I'm pushing it on the camber the way it is.

 

^ good to know Doc...i have been contemplating these as well

 

Would 25mm all around risk any damage to my car? And/or void my warranty? Wicked paranoid about this since I dropped almost $2k on the gold preferred plus plan.

 

For most, I would recommend a 20mm front and a 25mm rear. It's got a really nice look to it.

gormehn, these are just pushing out your wheels, as long as you're not rubbing, there's no issue with damage, and regarding the warranty, it can't be voided by using non-Nissan parts. Here's more information on warranties and aftermarket parts:

http://blog.stillen.com/2011/01/fede...ding-warranty/

 

^The parts department display case at my Nissan dealer has aftermarket Stillen products for sale.

 

Just ordered... went for 20mm/25mm. My first mod...

 

Congrats man! No one's asked for my opinion, but I still want to offer that I think you should make your second mod be the Eibach lowering springs. I was hesitant about lowering, but it's worth doing. If I had it to do over again the springs probably wouldve been first on my list. Since you care enough about the look of your setup, you'll love how it is after being a tad lower. You can go all out with coilovers if you're into that, but spacers and eibachs is a winning combo. Lol

Oh, and consider cleaning up those rusty rotors before putting the spacers on.