about:
about 6 months ago i had my catalytic converters clog. i took the opportunity to get a set of obx v2 headers. My friend cut the wires on all my o2 sensors too short so i needed to get all new ones and an 02 sim to clear codes. I start with the o2 sim and get rid of the secondary o2 sensor codes. i then get the grill-side of the engine's primary o2 sensor and firewall-side o2 sensor. everything seems good so i get the 2 secondaries and lay them on top of the engine.

problem:
I should have been all set but the secondary o2s heated code comes back (just the heated code). put it on a lift at the mechanic and found that my friend put the o2 sensor close to the stock spot, too close to the car's frame. the o2 sensor is now in 2 halves with a o2s heated code bank 1 sensor 1.

I get an o2 sensor from brenden marshall's old 5.5 gen. I wired it too my old o2s plug and made it longer. Yesterday, I had my mechanic put it in a different o2s hole. all is good for the ride home except im told the o2s fuse blew. i put a new one in and drive to work, check codes, all good. I go on a delivery and then check the codes; it reads all o2s codes, the fuse blew again, and again, and again. i unplugged it and bought a bunch of fuses and decided to try it again. i got a p1448 code, something about the vent control valve so i buy one today, however its the wrong year, i tried it anyway.

the fuse never blows today, but i get a constant p0132 and p0032 and p1448. later, when i have no gas, p1448 goes away. once i got a random misfire, and noticed when at idle the car sounds like it doesnt know how much gas to put in so i unplugged the bank 1 sensor 1 o2s and the misfire never comes back. Can the o2s cause that?

How do i fix all of these codes?



Ive had p1800 (vias control solenoid valve code) since i got the car. thought it was my block off plate but that never happened in my last 5.5s. any ideas?

 

Bro the wiring is shorted somewhere or you have the heater circuits wired backwards

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How did you do this?

 

I had my stock o2s plug and the o2s half following wires. There r 2 whites tho...

 

I sorta tested it before i put it in place...only threw a code saying no activity detected

 

fuses don't blow for no reason.

 

So i just made a small harness with 2 plug ends to test if i wired the sensor backwords. When i switched the white wires, the voltage (i think) stayed at 500. With the the whites wired how i had them and it oscilated between 420, 430, 480. The other sensors oscilate between 200s, 400s, 500s...

Did i pretty much ruin this sensor and need a new one?

So i ended up buying another new sensor, exteding that one and putting it in. It throws a code. On the live mode of a scanner, when i first start the car, the sensor reaxs a steady 400 range. When i drive the car, the o2 sensor fluctuates like normal.

What could cause.

 

I got another o2 sensor. This time i had my mechanic make an extender from old harnesses off my old car. Plugged it in: same code. This time voltage is 1.720. Unplug it and voltage is .29. Im told .29 is normal when its unplugged.

 

Don't cut the o2 sensor wire to make it longer. Cut the wires on the engine harness and make those longer. It is much easier to make the western union joint and solder the copper engine harness wire than the stainless steel o2 wire

 

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I cut neither. I took a 2 spare engine harness plugs that would fit the plug ends of the o2 sensor and the engine harness and made and extension. 1 plugs into the o2 sensor the other to the engine harness where the o2 sensor should be. My engine harness stays intact and my o2 sensor harness stays intact.

I triple checked the extension, no shorts. The mechanic checked everything with a multimeter. I switched the extension to the front primary bank 2 sensor 1 to see what would happen and no code came up