Hi, Need a little Help with a Maxima Problem That I cant seem to figure out. New To the Forums but not new to cars. I've read every post I could with similar symptoms or common "words" or "part numbers".

'03 Maxima 3.5 6speed ~160k miles. Basically I have a No start issue and can't connect to the OBD Port/ ECU to pull codes or check monitors. No wiring problems or broken plug it just can't connect or find power. Fuse Is working and not tripping.
The day BEFORE the car wouldn't start I did happen to pull Four Diagnostic codes: (correct me if I'm wrong)

p0300 (Random cylinder misfire)
p0420 (Cat. Bank 1)
P0430 (Cat. Bank 2)
p1800 (VIAS - Circuit Open)

The car ran fine one day, pulled the codes and wouldn't start the following morning. Just Continues to turn over.
There's no spark signal so I replaced the Crank Sensor but that did nothing. I also Pulled and inspected the ECU to check for a damaged/burn STA509A chip, possible caused by a bad IACV that has been discussed in other similar cases, Yet found nothing.
Lastly I checked for a NATS Security light while cranking the car over but the light did not stay solid, so I would have to assume the Programmed Key wouldn't be the issue.

Any tips or helpful links would be awesome. The only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere in the Harness and test wire by wire

 

Bad cam sensors will keep the car from starting. I would also check the engine control fuses that are under the hood by the battery.

In the OBD connector, pin 4 is chassis ground and pin 16 is battery voltage from fuse # 12 (dashboard panel, middle row, leftmost fuse). These are mandatory to the OBD spec.

Pin 5 is specified as signal ground by the OBD standard. Nissan uses chassis ground for this.

Pin 1 is also battery voltage from the ECU (pin 79). Pin 1 is used to tell the scan tool that the ignition switch is on.

Pin 8 also has battery voltage on it, from the ignition switch and fuse # 10. This pin is not an OBD assignment and I believe it is there for the Nissan Consult.

The data that is transferred is on pin 7. This is called the K-line by the OBD port and is similar to RS232 communications but without all the handshaking.

 

I had a no start and connect to ecu problem
it was the engine control fuse under the hood.

 

Well I checked the Engine Control fuses ( 1 and 2 ) under the hood and did another full check on all the fuses in car and under hood but nothing is blown.

Wouldn't a Cam Sensor at least throw a code before completely failing? I'm searching for voltage/ohms tests on the Forum to do a test on the CPS then check power to the OBD Connector.

I'm Not too familiar with Nissan but id have to assume something is fused or wired together that is causing a instant or sudden loss of connection to the ECU and a no start/spark signal loss yet is not a fuse or sensor?

 

I would think you should get a check engine light for the cam sensor, but I would never stake my life on it. There is an ohm test in the FSM. See page EC-330.

manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EC.pdf

Gotta figure out if you are not getting spark or fuel. The Nissan security system, of which NATS is part of, cuts off the fuel injectors.

Fuel injectors have 2 wires on them, a solid color one and one with a stripe. The solid color is connected to battery voltage through fuse # 17 and the ignition switch. The striped wire goes to the ECU and is grounded by the ECU to make the fuel injector work. If you put a meter on the striped wire maybe you can see it fluctuate when the ECU grounds it. You can also try using the AC volts scale for this.

The ignition coils have 3 wires on them. A red wire, which is battery voltage through one of the engine control fuses, and a black wire which is ground. the 3rd wire is a striped wire coming from the ECU. I can'r remember if this is grounded by the ecu or has 12 volts applied.

 

UnfortunatelyI'm an idiot.
Yesterday was the first time I've had the car back after being at the Mechanics for about a month after they couldn't find the problem (why I always work on my own cars)
After charging the battery to do a full test I notices the Security light IS on.
So I would have to assume the security system was tripped and did some searching

**For Future readers or anyone looking for advice or anyone having similar problems or NVIS problems**

The NATS or NVIS ( Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System ) Generally faults when a Transponder in the Key fails / is compromised or a Foreign key is used and will trip the system causing a "lockout" and will NOT start without use of the registered key.
Understand this is different from then overall security system and is a single function Immobilizer is the car is attempted to be stolen.
'99 is the only 4th Gen. with the Immobilizer feature but is found in 5th and 6th gen. as well

The Security light will stay SOLID when the Key is in the ignition and in the ON position or While cranking. The NATS/NVIS system cuts the power to the injectors and retards injector pulse, so if the motor is NOT cranking over you have a separate issue.

There is some debate on if reprogramming works with a few "tricks"
(general Nissan reprogram function )

http://www.m-sedan.com/nissan_vehicl...stem-5460.html

but a general consensus agrees and from what I have gathered is to solve the issue, the ECU will need to be RE-PROGRAMMED and the Key will need to be RE-CODED to using CONSULT II software.

The Dealership is NOT the only option and that and Automotive locksmith can copy key onto a new transponder key and reprogrammed it with a TKO machine. Be specific to let them know if you need a key re-made for damaged/ lost purposes or that you need the KEY Reprogrammed and that the Nissan immobilizer needs to be re-set. (not all locksmiths will do this )


if anyone has any in formation on the keys reprogram please chime in. I would like to know if the "Immobilization cod" HAS to be wiped from the ECU or if a new key transponder can be made.

 

With the 99 being the first year using NATS, there have been many posts here where the NATS system "burped" and disabled the car. Getting the ECU re-programmed would get the car running again without any parts needing to be replaced.

Local locksmiths that do automotive stuff can re-program the NATS for you. They have a program on a laptop and plug it in and do the job. They make house calls and are usually less expensive than the dealer. Call for quotes as their prices vary from place to place. Also, make sure you tell them you have a 1999. They need a different cable than the 2000 and on.

One tidbit of info when getting keys programmed - the programming process starts by erasing all the keys from the ECU memory, so you want to have all the keys available to be put back in. Of course if you are having this done, this is an excellent time to have an extra key or two made if you need them.

Nissan keys theoretically can't be cloned. Each key blank as a unique RF chip in it. Some people have claimed they can clone Nissan keys, but they never seem to be around for very long. The ignition switch thing to unlock the NATS would work if the system had detected improper keys. But if it "burped", the sequence probably won't work, you need to get the ECU re-programmed.

 

unfortunately this car left me with a hatred for Nissan.
IF worked in management for a major auto parts company, worked at an automotive shop for years and owned and worked on countless cars and never deal with bullsh*t like this.....

Thought I solved it but now the car still cant start, no Automotive locksmith wants to deal with it, Dealerships cant seem to understand what the NATS even thought they work at Nissan....

Cars is about to be sold for scrap metal. No blown fuses, No blown ECU chip, Can't connect to the OBD port and no CEL though I know for sure there are four. Turns over but the Security light Stays on. SOOO what? now i'm left with pulling out the wiring harness to check for shorts??? URGGGG NISSAN

 

I'm in the same boat right now . same exact problems except no security light.

 

 

There is a way to read codes from a 2003 or 2003 without a reader. See post # 32 in this thread -

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ont-start.html

 

I understand the frustration with the nats !#$%^ ,i have been trying to figure out why my car security light stays on solid only when it gets cold outside,but works perfect when its warm out,the only way i get it to work is to pull the Ecu out and take it in the house and warm it up.Then the security light is off and car starts without any problems.I have givin up and learn to live with it

 

i thought i would continue this thread, rather then starting new thread....

A friend has a 2001 Nissan maxima (Australia, right hand drive) that i replaced the starter motor on. Now it cranks but doesn't start, it doesn't have 12v at the black/yellow wire on the fuel pump. i have checked the fuses Number 17 and 29 which both where fine, it has 12volts at the fuse box and then i couldn't find the Fuel pump relay which must be in a different location from North American model (diver side Kick panel near left foot on left hand drive model).

But i got thinking about the NATS system and the security wasn't coming on when i switch the ignition, so i took it apart and found the Security LED was blown so i replace with new LED and resistor. Now when i go to start it, it barely glows....

So i also tried to put Autel autolink OBD2 reader on the car and it won't connect...

Now i am starting to think that ECU is not working..... Has anyone got any ideas on where i go next?????

 

I have just noticed when i changed the starter motor, i have wedged the rear motor mount wiring between the transmission and the starter. Could that shorted out the ECU...... hence why i can't connect via OBD11 and the security is not working as it should?

 

It is possible that the pinched motor mount wire could have caused one of the STA509A chips in the ECU to burn up. Even if it did, this never seems to prevent the car from starting.

The fuel pump not running is many times mid-understood. In order to have the fuel pump run, the ECU must be getting the signal pulses from the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel. I don't have very much experience with Maximas not made for North America, but usually the location of components is the same. If the fuel pump relay is not behind the left side kick panel, I don't know where it would be. When you took the plastic panel off, was there some kind of a metal box there? Here in the U.S., the relays are hiding behind the box.

You could try spraying some starting ether or brake cleaner or something very flammable into the intake manifold's air stream. If no fuel is your problem, the engine should start to catch from the spray. If the NATS system has been triggered, it cuts the fuel injectors off, but it doesn't sound like this is the case.

In order for an OBD scanner to work, there has to be 12 volts on pin 16 of the connector to let the scanner know it has been plugged in to something. Check fuse 12.

Check that you did not forget to plug the MAF sensor on.

 

Thanks Dennis for the reply.

When i took off the Left side kick panel, there is just a cavity with wiring loom running through it.

OBDII scanner turns on fine just won't connect to the car.

the MAF sensor is connected. Fuse 12 is fine and the injectors have 12 volts

i disconnected the Motor mounts and it still only cranks over, but doesn't start.....

 

Did you take the right side kick panel off? I looked in a 2000 Maxima QX service manual (sold in Europe) and it shows left side for the fuel pump relay. I cannot tell if the manual is for a left hand drive or a right hand drive car.

As a test, you could use a jumper wire and put 12 volts on the fuel pump black/yellow wire to see if the fuel pump will run. The NATS system prevents the car from starting by turning the fuel injectors off, the fuel pump will still run if the ECU is getting pulses from the CKPS flywheel sensor.

Can/have you checked to see if you are getting spark?

 

I looked in a European parts listing for a right hand drive Maxima and it shows the fuel pump relay as being plugged into the fuse panel on the left side. At least I think it is the fuse panel. Our North American cars have relays there, but different ones.

Here is a link to the parts illustration:
http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/er_...llustration_1/