Hi,
I have a question.
I removed my 2000 engine head because the leakdown test showed about 50%.
All cylinders had leaky valves.
When I removed the head I noticed a vertical black line probably the oil trace.
Could any one tell me what this is?

 

The first thing to do is to rub your fingernail across the line and see if it is just a deposit of oil, a groove, or a step. A broken compression ring (top or second ring down) will generally cause a step or a groove, but the groove would be relatively wide. But your photo shows the line going to the top of the cylinder bore, which the compression rings do not rise to. You may find a groove likely caused by foreign material having entered the cylinder and lodged probably between the piston crown and the cylinder wall. If you have a groove, you MAY be able to "feel" between the piston crown and the cylinder wall with a thin, hard blade like a cut-off feeler gauge with the piston at TDC. If you are extremely lucky you may be able to dislodge it.

It appears very unlikely that the line is oil or a carbon deposit. I believe it would take breakage of both compression rings for that to happen. If the engine has been rebuilt, there is a very small possibility that the compression ring gaps are lined up, a strict no-no. Yet the oil scraper ring set should remove oil. Please let me know how you make out with the examination. If your finger removes oil or carbon, take a look at the line if you can with an eye loupe.

One additional thought was one of the wristpin circlips, but they are too far down to cause the line to come to the deck.

Good luck. Looking forward to your response.

 

Don't look too bad. Looks like that engine skipped a few oil changes. Sometimes its gets to the point were you get so much grime the rings fuse themselves and not expanding and contracting on the ring groves on the piston. The walls still appear good, I would just clean and free them rings up or replace them and hone the walls. Takes a little time and don't cost much a STD ring set is cheap. Don't look like its needs them but you have it a good bit apart freeing them up would be my concern if I seen that. Like the 1st reply said. If you look at a ring chart and line it up with your piston that would tell you witch one it is from the ring groove alignment. HASTINGS is a ring maker and I believe they still make engine rings and they would sell you a single set for one piston if you email them. Within the box they provide has alignment chart and very nice instructions.

 

Something to think about as well, with rings being stuck don't allow enough oil to reach the cylinder walls result low compression. In time what happens is the Hone or fine hatched scratch's on the wall what I would call WASH away. These Scratches or hone capture a tiny bit oil and gives the rings something to float against and that is what provide your good compression. If your new to that task do one at a time and mark your piston FRONT so you don't get it put in backward or 180 degrees some engines have a notch or mark as this one does not make your own mark. Them kits are very detailed with instructions. HONEING is very easy to do and make sure if you go this way you do that. Some of you compression readings that you contributed to the valves may not off been a 100% factor. I don't see much of a HONE and that Cyl looks a bit washed. Most likely had the power of a slug. Valves refaced and new rings with a good Honing would give you a Kick A ss running engine.

 

 

 

 

Here are a few Photos and the tool needed. This tool in a up & down motion for a few seconds will give you a nice Hone on you Cyl walls.

 

A lot of times you can tell by sight of the Cyl walls what kind of wear your rings have. I found some great photos to give you an idea of what your looking at. Smooth Cyl walls and uneven discoloration ( Hot Spots ). Dirty engine oil...Dirty engine oil rates of time some say 3 months 3000 miles that's all good but some engines like yours the oil gets dirty much much faster. When the mixture of fuel and compressed air explodes it leaves carbon and unburned deposits on your Cyl walls and all car engines do this, the difference is more deposits get passed your rings and dirties the oil in your crankcase by the OPP side of your pistons, that term would be ( Blow By). In a fuel injected engine the fuel mixture is forced rather then pulled like a carbureted engine meaning it would still run but a steady loss of power over time. Saying that its less apparent when rings go bad in a fuel injected engine, a carbureted one would have a difficult time idling. When the rings cant float within the ring groves they wear down in no time as the engine expands and contracts each time the auto gets cold and warms up over & over as that is why they are designed to be able to expand and contract, if not bad low compression will be the end result.

 

 

 

 

I seen this and had to put it up. You don't have to be this guy to get it done lol. I get good advice from this site and most of these guys help. If you decide to go with new rings new rod bearings don't cost much at all, a STD set is easy to find and you know what you have under the hood you went this far and a 2000 is a nice ride. If you get stuck drop a post. When I was younger I was into turbo charging and melted many of pistons, after time changing them out was like riding a bike.

 

Thank you so much for all the reply.
I didn't have time to check this post until now.
Anyway,when I touch the line, I can't feel anything. It is just smooth.
I don't think it's a foreign material.
Do you think I should change the ring even if it is smooth?

 

What brand of rod bearing do you recommend?
Is DNJ good brand?

 

I would change the rings out all of them. Rings & Bearings don't cost much and the benefits are worth the added effort. I don't know what part stores are in your area but many times for internal parts like the ones you need Nappa Auto Parts has good suppliers.

 

if youve got the engine out and down to that point it would be silly not to spend the time to replace the rings unless the engine is only at like 50k miles.

 

Thanks guys.
I'll do that.