**** gas mileage
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Joined: Dec 2013
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**** gas mileage
Soo havent really noticed untill i set the trip on my odometer to 0 when i filled my tank that i have **** mpg.... I went from a full tank to a half tank, and looked at my trip a mileage and it says 67 miles... Theres no way 67 miles is a half tank... I need to do my plugs and a new air filter can these be my issues? I can clean my filter no problem but i have no idea where all the spark plugs are as ive heard some are difficult to reach... Anything else that might be causeing this horid gas mileage
i would replace both primary oxygen sensors and clean and/or replace MAF.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 291
i would replace both primary oxygen sensors and clean and/or replace MAF.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 291
i would replace both primary oxygen sensors and clean and/or replace MAF.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 290
IMHO if you have money to just toss around then go with what nsnrider said. But a MAF is an really expensive part, and is pointless to replace unless you having real performance issues and the MAF is truly suspected.
Lets see if we can help you identify the problem rather than throwing a bunch of expensive parts at the car that may not change a thing, some people on the org. Must have really deep pockets.
First off how is the car performing? Is it missing, sluggish, shift funny, etc. Is your MIL light on? If so what codes do you have? Even if its not on there could be some gohst codes, like the knock sensor. Have you checked the condition of your filler neck lately? Its a common part to rust out, and if it does fuel can evaporate, leak out when the gas gets sloshing around, and will cause an evap code.
Things like plugs and airfilter can be done if your over 100,000km's and they have never been done before. Just FYI: the stock platinum plugs can be good for up to 100,000km's. I was at 200,000km's when I changed mine and they still looked OK.
To get at the rear plugs you will need two extensions for your ratchet, or just one really long one. Its pretty simple, look in the stickies for the procedure. Or just watch bordermon's video on YouTube. Just type "changing spark plugs on a 4th Gen maxima" in youtube's search engine and you should find it easily.
Lets see if we can help you identify the problem rather than throwing a bunch of expensive parts at the car that may not change a thing, some people on the org. Must have really deep pockets.
First off how is the car performing? Is it missing, sluggish, shift funny, etc. Is your MIL light on? If so what codes do you have? Even if its not on there could be some gohst codes, like the knock sensor. Have you checked the condition of your filler neck lately? Its a common part to rust out, and if it does fuel can evaporate, leak out when the gas gets sloshing around, and will cause an evap code.
Things like plugs and airfilter can be done if your over 100,000km's and they have never been done before. Just FYI: the stock platinum plugs can be good for up to 100,000km's. I was at 200,000km's when I changed mine and they still looked OK.
To get at the rear plugs you will need two extensions for your ratchet, or just one really long one. Its pretty simple, look in the stickies for the procedure. Or just watch bordermon's video on YouTube. Just type "changing spark plugs on a 4th Gen maxima" in youtube's search engine and you should find it easily.
you can get a used maf for $20. I would not say that is crazy expensive but it might be to you 6cyl-97maxima. Besides, I recommend cleaning it first.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 291
IMHO if you have money to just toss around then go with what nsnrider said. But a MAF is an really expensive part, and is pointless to replace unless you having real performance issues and the MAF is truly suspected.
Lets see if we can help you identify the problem rather than throwing a bunch of expensive parts at the car that may not change a thing, some people on the org. Must have really deep pockets.
First off how is the car performing? Is it missing, sluggish, shift funny, etc. Is your MIL light on? If so what codes do you have? Even if its not on there could be some gohst codes, like the knock sensor. Have you checked the condition of your filler neck lately? Its a common part to rust out, and if it does fuel can evaporate, leak out when the gas gets sloshing around, and will cause an evap code.
Things like plugs and airfilter can be done if your over 100,000km's and they have never been done before. Just FYI: the stock platinum plugs can be good for up to 100,000km's. I was at 200,000km's when I changed mine and they still looked OK.
To get at the rear plugs you will need two extensions for your ratchet, or just one really long one. Its pretty simple, look in the stickies for the procedure. Or just watch bordermon's video on YouTube. Just type "changing spark plugs on a 4th Gen maxima" in youtube's search engine and you should find it easily.
Lets see if we can help you identify the problem rather than throwing a bunch of expensive parts at the car that may not change a thing, some people on the org. Must have really deep pockets.
First off how is the car performing? Is it missing, sluggish, shift funny, etc. Is your MIL light on? If so what codes do you have? Even if its not on there could be some gohst codes, like the knock sensor. Have you checked the condition of your filler neck lately? Its a common part to rust out, and if it does fuel can evaporate, leak out when the gas gets sloshing around, and will cause an evap code.
Things like plugs and airfilter can be done if your over 100,000km's and they have never been done before. Just FYI: the stock platinum plugs can be good for up to 100,000km's. I was at 200,000km's when I changed mine and they still looked OK.
To get at the rear plugs you will need two extensions for your ratchet, or just one really long one. Its pretty simple, look in the stickies for the procedure. Or just watch bordermon's video on YouTube. Just type "changing spark plugs on a 4th Gen maxima" in youtube's search engine and you should find it easily.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 291
you can get a used maf for $20. I would not say that is crazy expensive but it might be to you 6cyl-97maxima. Besides, I recommend cleaning it first.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 290
you can get a used maf for $20. I would not say that is crazy expensive but it might be to you 6cyl-97maxima. Besides, I recommend cleaning it first.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
Rusty fill pipe is a good idea to check too, I forgot about the pipe rusting out, but usually you get a strong gas smell and it would leak out when filling up which is hard to miss.
Last edited by 6cyl-97maxima; Feb 27, 2014 at 02:57 PM.
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Then we will take it from there.
PS: don't feel bad I'm only getting 19 MPG, if I'm lucky. Filler neck is completely rotted and leaks as well as evaporates. Pluses I need coils, fix an exhaust leak, etc...want to trade?
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Then your maf is fine, you would totally notice a huge performance drop and you would likely get lean/rich codes it if it went bad. Do a general tune up. Clean your air filter, change your plugs, run some injector cleaner through your tank during the next few fill-ups And thoroughly check you entire fuel system fir leaks. Filler neck especially.
Then we will take it from there.
PS: don't feel bad I'm only getting 19 MPG, if I'm lucky. Filler neck is completely rotted and leaks as well as evaporates. Pluses I need coils, fix an exhaust leak, etc...want to trade?
Then we will take it from there.
PS: don't feel bad I'm only getting 19 MPG, if I'm lucky. Filler neck is completely rotted and leaks as well as evaporates. Pluses I need coils, fix an exhaust leak, etc...want to trade?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 291
Then your maf is fine, you would totally notice a huge performance drop and you would likely get lean/rich codes it if it went bad. Do a general tune up. Clean your air filter, change your plugs, run some injector cleaner through your tank during the next few fill-ups And thoroughly check you entire fuel system fir leaks. Filler neck especially.
Then we will take it from there.
PS: don't feel bad I'm only getting 19 MPG, if I'm lucky. Filler neck is completely rotted and leaks as well as evaporates. Pluses I need coils, fix an exhaust leak, etc...want to trade?
Then we will take it from there.
PS: don't feel bad I'm only getting 19 MPG, if I'm lucky. Filler neck is completely rotted and leaks as well as evaporates. Pluses I need coils, fix an exhaust leak, etc...want to trade?
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
i would replace both primary oxygen sensors and clean and/or replace MAF.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
New plugs will help too. They are easy to replace on a 4th gen.
Run some injector cleaner and make sure your injectors are not stuck open and flooding the cylinders. You should be getting better than 20 mpg unless you drive like you stole it.
I like to buy used DSC4s from Craig's list with about 150,000 miles where possibly the original or 2nd owner starts to complain about mileage and that the car just doesn't run like it did a few years ago. Usually they have received a CEL code for a Knock Sensor or one of the O2 sensors. They might say their mechanic changed the plugs but that didn't make it run any better.
As soon as I get the car home, I clean the MAF. Change the fuel filter and the air filter if needed. In some cases, I can tell the original factory Nissan fuel filter is on the car.
Next I order a set of (upstream and downstream) NGK/NTK O2 sensors from www.rockauto.com. I've found changing O2 sensors on a car with over 120,000 miles brings a quick "in town" performance gain and increases mileage. Usually on my DSC4s I'll see roughly a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement with new O2 sensors. Since we should be running premium fuel in our DSC4s, a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement will start the payback for the cost of sensors from a discount parts place like www.rockauto.com.
After I replace the O2 sensors, then I will replace the plugs with NGK factory spec plugs. However I can state with all honesty that changing the plugs does not show the same performance and MPG improvement that O2 sensors bring on a car with over 120,000 miles unless the plugs are way overdue for replacement.
Here's a picture of a side-by-side comparison of a new NGK/NTK O2 sensor next to an NGK/NTK OEM sensor with 122,000 miles.
I've found that while an OBDII vehicle's O2 sensor may not through a CEL code, after 100,000 miles they start to get lazy and do not let the ECU trim out the air/fuel ratio that results in MPG that gets worse over time with sluggish performance around town.
For my OBDI Infiniti VH45DE, that only has 2 upstream sensors, I need to replace the sensors after 60,000 miles (along with the plugs) to keep it optimal.
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So last night cleaned my MAF cleaned my k and n filter with the k and n cleaning kit and a noticible change in gas mileage, still lower than it should be though.. New fuel filter goes in today and doing my plugs this weekend hopefully helps me out
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+1 to O2 sensors and cleaning the MAF.
I like to buy used DSC4s from Craig's list with about 150,000 miles where possibly the original or 2nd owner starts to complain about mileage and that the car just doesn't run like it did a few years ago. Usually they have received a CEL code for a Knock Sensor or one of the O2 sensors. They might say their mechanic changed the plugs but that didn't make it run any better.
As soon as I get the car home, I clean the MAF. Change the fuel filter and the air filter if needed. In some cases, I can tell the original factory Nissan fuel filter is on the car.
Next I order a set of (upstream and downstream) NGK/NTK O2 sensors from www.rockauto.com. I've found changing O2 sensors on a car with over 120,000 miles brings a quick "in town" performance gain and increases mileage. Usually on my DSC4s I'll see roughly a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement with new O2 sensors. Since we should be running premium fuel in our DSC4s, a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement will start the payback for the cost of sensors from a discount parts place like www.rockauto.com.
After I replace the O2 sensors, then I will replace the plugs with NGK factory spec plugs. However I can state with all honesty that changing the plugs does not show the same performance and MPG improvement that O2 sensors bring on a car with over 120,000 miles unless the plugs are way overdue for replacement.
Here's a picture of a side-by-side comparison of a new NGK/NTK O2 sensor next to an NGK/NTK OEM sensor with 122,000 miles.
I've found that while an OBDII vehicle's O2 sensor may not through a CEL code, after 100,000 miles they start to get lazy and do not let the ECU trim out the air/fuel ratio that results in MPG that gets worse over time with sluggish performance around town.
For my OBDI Infiniti VH45DE, that only has 2 upstream sensors, I need to replace the sensors after 60,000 miles (along with the plugs) to keep it optimal.
I like to buy used DSC4s from Craig's list with about 150,000 miles where possibly the original or 2nd owner starts to complain about mileage and that the car just doesn't run like it did a few years ago. Usually they have received a CEL code for a Knock Sensor or one of the O2 sensors. They might say their mechanic changed the plugs but that didn't make it run any better.
As soon as I get the car home, I clean the MAF. Change the fuel filter and the air filter if needed. In some cases, I can tell the original factory Nissan fuel filter is on the car.
Next I order a set of (upstream and downstream) NGK/NTK O2 sensors from www.rockauto.com. I've found changing O2 sensors on a car with over 120,000 miles brings a quick "in town" performance gain and increases mileage. Usually on my DSC4s I'll see roughly a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement with new O2 sensors. Since we should be running premium fuel in our DSC4s, a 2 to 2.5 MPG improvement will start the payback for the cost of sensors from a discount parts place like www.rockauto.com.
After I replace the O2 sensors, then I will replace the plugs with NGK factory spec plugs. However I can state with all honesty that changing the plugs does not show the same performance and MPG improvement that O2 sensors bring on a car with over 120,000 miles unless the plugs are way overdue for replacement.
Here's a picture of a side-by-side comparison of a new NGK/NTK O2 sensor next to an NGK/NTK OEM sensor with 122,000 miles.
I've found that while an OBDII vehicle's O2 sensor may not through a CEL code, after 100,000 miles they start to get lazy and do not let the ECU trim out the air/fuel ratio that results in MPG that gets worse over time with sluggish performance around town.
For my OBDI Infiniti VH45DE, that only has 2 upstream sensors, I need to replace the sensors after 60,000 miles (along with the plugs) to keep it optimal.
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From: San Antonio, TX
Are we ignoring the elephant in the room here? Short Ram intake? Aren't they notorious for gas guzzling. They provide direct power to the low torque range, like launches and from a stop.
If you are driving around in mixed conditions (traffic and highway) my guess is that its because it's modded. I run 93 in my stock set up and I get anywhere from 17-22 MPG. I'm at 240k miles and I admit, I neglect my motor sometimes. (cant remember the last spark plug change, etc)
The most recent change was cleanign out the entire EVAP/EGR system and solenoids and charcoal canister. This produced a small change in my MPGs but mostly just got rid of the codes.
Take this with a grain of salt though. Just posting a possible alternative view
If you are driving around in mixed conditions (traffic and highway) my guess is that its because it's modded. I run 93 in my stock set up and I get anywhere from 17-22 MPG. I'm at 240k miles and I admit, I neglect my motor sometimes. (cant remember the last spark plug change, etc)
The most recent change was cleanign out the entire EVAP/EGR system and solenoids and charcoal canister. This produced a small change in my MPGs but mostly just got rid of the codes.
Take this with a grain of salt though. Just posting a possible alternative view
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