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03 Maxima shut off while driving.. Why?!

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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 05:18 PM
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03 Maxima shut off while driving.. Why?!

Hey guys. So today I was driving and my 5.5 gen maxima 6mt shut off while driving. Never happened before. I realized it when my steering wheel when hard. I put it on N and it started right up again and kept driving like normal. Any ideas on what could have caused this?
Old Mar 31, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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either one of the CPS (cam position sensors), check for any pending SES codes. P0340 Bank1 sensor, P0345 Bank2 sensor.

This would be my first thoughts.
Old Mar 31, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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Ill check, but the CEL never turned on. Does it matter.

How about a dirty MAF sensor?
Old Apr 1, 2014 | 06:14 PM
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I have had the stalling issue with my Max a couple of times before I actually got a P0345 Bank 2 CPS error code, I replaced my Bank 2 CPS (with an OEM sensor) aftermarket ones are unreliable. There is a TSB recall on our Max's for the CPS (best to check with your dealer and see if your Vin. was part of the recall and possible check if yours have been replaced. I suppose you may have an issue with your MAF (seems like all engine mishaps tend to get blamed on the MAF). Get your car scanned to see if you have any pending codes that have simply not lit up the SES light.

Did the car display any other issues prior to stalling out ie. car would not go up past 2500 rpm, or did it just up and die while in motion?

Last edited by Ghost_54; Apr 2, 2014 at 06:10 PM.
Old Apr 1, 2014 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghost_54
I have had the stalling issue with my Max a couple of times before I actually got a P0345 Bank 2 CPS error code, I replced my Bank 2 CPS (with an OEM sensor) aftermarket ones are unreliable. There is a TSB recall on our Max's for the CPS (best to check with your dealer and see if your Vin. was part of the recall and possible check if yours have been replaced. I suppose you may have an issue with your MAF (seems like all engine mishaps tend to get blamed on the MAF). Get your car scanned to see if you have any pending codes that have simply not lit up the SES light.

Did the car display any other issues prior to stalling out ie. car would not go up past 2500 rpm, or did it just up and die while in motion?
Yes i asked my friends mechanic and he suggested the same thing. Will scan it tomorrow and most likely replace the CPS

And no, the cars been running like a champ since I got it, no issues until this. I was going around 40mph, popped it off gear approaching a red light, next thing you know it was off
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 07:33 AM
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I experienced the same problem multiple times, before/as my MAF went bad. No codes, so I didn't know what's going on. Eventually figured it out with help of people on this forum.
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
I experienced the same problem multiple times, before/as my MAF went bad. No codes, so I didn't know what's going on. Eventually figured it out with help of people on this forum.
So was your problem the MAF? Or CPS sensors?
Old Apr 2, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by svillegas2253
So was your problem the MAF? Or CPS sensors?
It was the MAF. Replaced it and the car hasn't stalled since then.
Old May 5, 2014 | 06:12 AM
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I had the exact same thing as the OP happen to me last night. Car shut off while driving. Luckily I was on a local residential street and was able to let it roll to the side. OBD pulled P0420 and P0340. The P0420 has been there for a while but the P0340 was new. So does this mean that the issue was most likely caused by the MAF sensor? If so, is it worth trying to clean it first and seeing if that helps? How much do they cost brand new and is there a good place to purchase them online?
Old May 5, 2014 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy
I had the exact same thing as the OP happen to me last night. Car shut off while driving. Luckily I was on a local residential street and was able to let it roll to the side. OBD pulled P0420 and P0340. The P0420 has been there for a while but the P0340 was new. So does this mean that the issue was most likely caused by the MAF sensor? If so, is it worth trying to clean it first and seeing if that helps? How much do they cost brand new and is there a good place to purchase them online?
Cleaning is worth a try, but it likely needs replaced.
Hit the junkyard or buy a used one from an org'er here.
Oem is the only way to go with the MAF.
You don't want to know the new price.
Used should be $60 shipped or less off the org.
Junkyard is around $30 at my local yard.
Old May 5, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
Cleaning is worth a try, but it likely needs replaced.
Hit the junkyard or buy a used one from an org'er here.
Oem is the only way to go with the MAF.
You don't want to know the new price.
Used should be $60 shipped or less off the org.
Junkyard is around $30 at my local yard.
Thanks man, I have the cleaner and have cleaned it once before years ago so I'll give it a try. Good call on the junkyard as well. I have a local junkyard that I went to with my brother to get some parts for his Toyota. I saw a a few Maximas there so I might go back. Mine is a 2003 Max so does the MAF have to be a 5th gen Maxima MAF or will other gens work?
Old May 5, 2014 | 12:31 PM
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Yes avoid all the trouble and replace the MAF. I replaced mine with an OEM from local junkyard ($45) and its fine now.
Old May 5, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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Is it possible to test the CPS or MAF to see if they have gone bad?
Old May 5, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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Someone on here told me that there was a recall CPS sensors on 5.5 gens. I was gonna replace mine but first changed the MAF and its been fine

I think you test the MAF by disconnecting it while the car is runnung. If it shuts off, the MAF should be fine

Last edited by svillegas2253; May 5, 2014 at 01:35 PM.
Old May 6, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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I have had a similar problem. My car would shut off when backing off from heavy throttle. When I would change out of 6th gear into neutral when getting off the highway, it would die.
A regular spark plug change, CPV valve, injector cleaner,and other regular 100k maintenance solved the problem.
Old May 6, 2014 | 09:43 PM
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Oh and cleaning the throttle body. Mechanic said that an overall tune up would do the trick and it did. However, my idle slightly went up after doing all of this maintenance. I assume the car wasn't getting enough fuel when changing out of gear into neutral and died. Now my car has a much better throttle response and acceleration too
Old May 8, 2014 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by svillegas2253
Someone on here told me that there was a recall CPS sensors on 5.5 gens.
The recall was R3022 and I had it done in 2004. At the time I experienced the symptoms twice while on the highway where the car would have a complete loss of power for a couple seconds...pretty scary. More info here: http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB03-124.pdf
Old May 8, 2014 | 07:02 PM
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So there are two CPS in the car. I'm trying to figure out which one I need. The code i'm getting is P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
Looking at the diagram, do I need part code 23731M or 23731MA?
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ponentsIndex=1

I assume this is relatively simple to do. I change the oil and have changed the in cabin microfilter and ignition coils but thats the extent of my experience. Is there a how-to available somewhere?
Old May 9, 2014 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy
So there are two CPS in the car. I'm trying to figure out which one I need. The code i'm getting is P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
Looking at the diagram, do I need part code 23731M or 23731MA?
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ponentsIndex=1

I assume this is relatively simple to do. I change the oil and have changed the in cabin microfilter and ignition coils but thats the extent of my experience. Is there a how-to available somewhere?
For bank 1, you need 23731MA. It is the rear bank closest to the firewall.

It is not complicated to do and if you've changed coils then you can change the CPS.

Disconnect battery
Remove intake piping at throttle body
Bank 1 CPS is located under the throttle body on the side of the head just below the valve cover.
Unplug CPS
Remove CPS which is held on by one 10mm bolt
Install new CPS carefully and be sure not to damage or dirty the sensor side
Plug it in and button everything else back up and you should be done.

Side note, make sure you do not attempt to open the throttle body using your hand. This can ruin your throttle unit.
Old May 9, 2014 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dfj240
For bank 1, you need 23731MA. It is the rear bank closest to the firewall.

It is not complicated to do and if you've changed coils then you can change the CPS.

Disconnect battery
Remove intake piping at throttle body
Bank 1 CPS is located under the throttle body on the side of the head just below the valve cover.
Unplug CPS
Remove CPS which is held on by one 10mm bolt
Install new CPS carefully and be sure not to damage or dirty the sensor side
Plug it in and button everything else back up and you should be done.

Side note, make sure you do not attempt to open the throttle body using your hand. This can ruin your throttle unit.
Thanks, I'll give it a go this weekend. When you say not to open throttle body using hand, do u mean use gloves?

Also, are ebay parts legit? I found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Cam-shaf...-/360500317567
Not sure if it is OEM or not but price is really low so i would guess not.
Old May 9, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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I took a picture and put an arrow to where I think the bank 1 CPS is. Is that correct?


Last edited by shobuddy; May 10, 2014 at 07:53 AM.
Old May 10, 2014 | 03:27 AM
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No, I mean don't move the throttle valve at all. There is no reason to mess with it for this job anyhow so it shouldn't be a problem, just wanted to give fair warning in case while it was open and available you became curious as to the cleanliness of the inner area of the throttle body. I'm speaking from experience here. Lol.

That eBay part is no different than any part you would get from rockauto or OReilly or the like except that the eBay one doesn't tell you exactly what brand it is. Just says aftermarket. Avoid that for sure.

Picture didn't work, at least not on my tablet, which defaults to the mobile view but it normally has no problem with pictures. I'll switch to the regular desktop view and see if it shows up. Otherwise try uploading it again if you would.

EDIT: I recommend going to rockauto for the part. Find the Hitachi brand as that is the OE manufacturer for Nissan on that part. In the description, you're looking for the part labeled for the right side. Right = Bank 1, Left = Bank 2. Should be about $40-50, if I remember correctly.

Last edited by dfj240; May 10, 2014 at 03:31 AM.
Old May 10, 2014 | 07:55 AM
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Thanks, I fixed the picture link. Good call on the Rockauto as they are pretty reasonably priced.
Old May 10, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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I had same issue was the maf sensor it would pop a cel because it was a ghost code I took it to dealer ship. They replaced knock sensors and tb still acted the same , I bought a used maf n problem resolved mine would die or stall when I would go to neutral before a stop , check for ghost code first
Old May 11, 2014 | 01:22 AM
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Based on the picture that looks to be about right. Hard to tell for sure. Probably because it's almost 3:30 and I really need to go to sleep. But it looks to be correct.
Old May 11, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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I've got everything out but I can't get the connector to disconnect from the sensor. I've pushed the green clip in till it clicks and per this video:
at the 1:20 mark, the sensor is supposed to just pop off the clip but it won't for me. I've tried using all the strength and jiggling it a bit but nothing works. What gives!
Old May 11, 2014 | 07:59 PM
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Thanks for the video - super helpful
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