I got a quote for $780 to remove and replace both lower-front control arms with ball joint.

Parts
101-4915 Suspension Control Arm w/Ball Joint
101-4916 Suspension Control Arm w/Ball Joint
$228 + $217 = $445

Labor = $333

I found the same parts on Amazon
$71 + $66 = $137


Can someone honestly tell me if this is a doable job for 1 person with little knowledge and no lift?


If so how big of a job is it (Hours-wise)

And how much should I actually pay for this work from a professional?


(Work I've done myself in the past
Brakes, pads, rotors, calipers, radiator replacement, maf replacement, knock sensor, oil and filter, oxygen sensors, bulbs, fuses, window regulator, speakers, radio installs)

 

First thing i would do is buy a haynes manual.then download the FSM from someone here.its not that hard.take your time and do it right

 

You can do it yourself. How to guides on Youtube. I followed them exactly and not a problem.

 

I have a hanes manual. I just wanted to know how long something like this would take to DIY and if it was Easy/Medium/Hard.

I don't have a lift, or a lot of time to do the work. (Apartment complex doesn't let me do work on my car).

If it's something that can be done quick I could probably get away with it though.

 

You can rent a ball joint separator tool and other tools you need from AdvanceAuto or AutoZone. When you return the tools you get your money back. Be sure to check the quality of the tool before you leave the store. I've attempted to rented a couple that were broken. It is a medium size job in the ~4 hour range.

Here's a link top a "How To" article for removing the LCAs. Instead of replacing only the ball joints, you are replacing the entire LCA.

NOTE: Stop after STEP 12 in the article.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-install.html

 

dude, i bought 2 moog lca's for 101.18 shipped and my mechanic charged me 120.00 cash to install both sides. takes about an hour and a half for the job, you can do it on your back with jackstands. i just did'nt have a place i could do it or i would've tried doing it myself.

 

I did it my self in a few hours not to bad... Got both off of rock auto, new bushings and ball joints my only mistake was not buying new pin rods! If u DIY get new ones, the bushing will most likely be seized to it. I managed to seperate it but the threads after were mangled. But do ur sway bar endlinks and sway bar bushings while ur at it u have to take off the links anyways. Also make sure if u do it or whoever does it uses anti sieze on all of the bolts! And a DIY u do not need to remove the axel or mess with the tirods if u have the correct tools! Saves a chunk load of time. And it makes it a lot easier to do at home! Just a thought to save a buck man

 

Also i payed about 130 for both arms together with balljoints shipped

 

All bottom bolts should be 22mm i believe the rod going through the front bushing was a 27mm??? Someone corect me if im wrong, and i forget what the ball joint was. Also i used a torque wrench to get the corect torque specs when installing the new arms

 

 

Rockauto yo. LCAs are like $35 ea.

 

For the disposable ones.
If you want them to last, get the $70 Moog.
There are two different grades/qualities.

 

Make sure you get the arm with tht correct rear bushing for your car! Especially with the rock auto parts if u have a 99 maxima. The maximas produced before April of the manufacturing year have a different set up of the rear bushing, the 99 maximas produced after April of the manufacturing year have a weird metal bracket or something that holds the bushing make sure you gt the correct arm. I got the wrong arm from rock auto cause i wasnt aware of this

 

there are 3 actually. i got the medium grade for 50.00 each

 

Tackling this project depends on where you are located.

Corrosion will be your biggest obstacle/time waster if you are located in the North.

I was going to do this job myself 2 years ago after referencing boredmder's video, but I could not remove any of the bolts holding the control arm on due to rust. So, I had a mechanic take care of the job and paid around $170 USD to have 2 OEM control arms installed. The bushing is still in mint shape, the ball joint is solid and hardly any rust has formed yet.

If you a live in an area where road salt is used sparingly, you should be able to tackle this job with a breaker bar and a rented ball joint separator.

As some have mentioned, if you're looking to save time, buy new pin rods with your control arms as they may be stuck. If you're planning on keeping the car for a while, I would suggest the Nissan OEM control arms, but they do come at a hefty price.

 

while this is true im up in New England and i know what ur sayin man everything is rusted to crap when i go to change it but i have learned that pb blaster/ wd-40 is my best friend. Little bit sprayed on all the bolts that will be removed the night before and in the morning the bolts come off nice with a breaker bar or a little bit of heat if needed. But i tackled this job, both arms in about 2 hours... Well it would have taken that long but i didnt buy new pin rods so for about 4-5 hours were messing with those because it was siezed to the bushing. If i had bought new pin rods it would have been 1-1 and a half hours per side

 

And i cant say it enough make sure if u have a 99 maxima make sure to get the correct arms! If u have a 99 that was made in March or before in 99 the back bushing is different than a 99 made in April of 99 and will not fit so do ur research

 

"Well it would have taken that long but i didnt buy new pin rods so for about 4-5 hours were messing with those because it was siezed to the bushing. If i had bought new pin rods it would have been 1-1 and a half hours per side"
Everyone keeps saying this. Just looking at what it is isn't it possible just to grind those out of the old arms? Obviously everyone has said they would rather spend the $70 so it must be serious! What gives?

 

What are symptoms of bad LCAs? I've had my alignment guy check the bushings every time I get one and they always look good. I'm at about 220k miles w/ mostly highway driving.

 

Mine were fine, I left the pins on the car and slid the LCA off. Worked good, few hits with a hammer and they slid off. One three bolts to tackle then, plus ball joint. Pretty sure it was the first time they have been changed. Looks like you could either cut them off, or use a puller once off the car. Then again I thought I could get my passenger CV bracket off the shaft too, no such luck.

 

Bad ball joints/LCA bushings = wobbly steering, clunking while turning, being able to move tire in and out when grabbing it on top and bottom. car shifts when accelerating or breaking.

My Corolla's were still good after 217K. The ones in the max lasted 200k

 

I paid like ~$770 to get my LCAs replaced - but that was with a steering rack rebuild. LCAs alone probably 200-300 tops. They pretty much just bolt on.

 

Yikes. DIY FTW.
I don't miss shops.

Top of the line Moog are less than $100 each.

 

I'm going to replace the front lower control arms on my 99 Maxima with the Moog Problem Solver line (CK620353 & CK620352) and sway bar end links Moog K9824, as well as replace the sway bar bushings with Energy Poly Bushings (Black). Everything was ordered tonight.

I just did the Front Moog Strut Assemblies this past Saturday. NICE! Highly recommended. Rear, a couple weeks ago. NICE! Highly Recommended!

So, I have a few questions.

Should I also order new Pin Rods (Pin-Link Bush) or reuse the ones on the car? If I should reuse the old ones, is it easier to leave the three bolts in the car and take the threaded nut off the end and pull the LCA off that? Or take the Pin Rod out still in the LCA and disassemble it out of the car?

Also, what is required to replace the sway bar bushings?

Thanks to all of you other "High Mileage" DIY Dudes!

 

Like Fakie J said, get the Moog Problem Solver line from rockauto. Those Beck Arnleys are good too. It's a simple job as long as you have the proper tools. Be sure to get a Ball Joint seperator from a local auto parts store's loan a tool program. You will need a 22mm socket for 6 bolts and a 28mm socket for another. The wrench you will need for the ball joint stud is 22mm to put on the Moog but the factory one you have to remove is a 19mm. That is of course assuming that the factory ones are still on it.

 

You don't need a ball joint separator. To separate the ball joint from the knuckle simply loosen and remove the nut then wack the side of the ball joint knuckle with a BFH and it will pop right out. Much easier and more effective then a ball joint fork.

TIP: Make sure you watch the location of the bolts, one of them is a different length.