Replacing Parking Brake Cable
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
Replacing Parking Brake Cable
If I pull the parking brake on hard, it freezes the rear right caliper which will not release without my leveraging it manually, outside of the car. Nothing happening on the left. I am assuming that on a hoist, someone wasnt careful and the lines are jammed or cimped. So i got a used set today, both cables connected to a tie bar ea with a banjo to a single line that feeds into the handle with a 10mm nut. What is the simplest way to replace the cables with the least amount of hassle to the exhaust system pipe, resonator and heat shields? Anybody with any cheats or experience in this area? please...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
there is very little tolerance to not only threading the single pull cable up, but also getting to the bolts that secure each side main cables. Im using used parts and would have to install the entire assembly line from the handle back as the banjo brackets are to rusted to replace and im not spending $70 at the dealer for a new one. Let me know if you are successful. thanks.
I replaced my OE parking brake cables last March with new ones I purchased from EBAY for only $66 total.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C95004-Tru-Torque-Parking-Brake-Cable-/161057445681?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257fc59731&vxp=mtr (right)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C95003-Tru-Torque-Parking-Brake-Cable-/161285073406?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258d56e9fe&vxp=mtr (left)
They fit fine and come with new brackets. If you cannot afford new cables then make your own brackets using a grinder and drill. Also use new nuts and bolts.
The Cat shield needs to be dropped to replace these cables. To get to a bracket on the right cable one of the b-pipe's shield also needs to be dropped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C95004-Tru-Torque-Parking-Brake-Cable-/161057445681?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257fc59731&vxp=mtr (right)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C95003-Tru-Torque-Parking-Brake-Cable-/161285073406?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258d56e9fe&vxp=mtr (left)
They fit fine and come with new brackets. If you cannot afford new cables then make your own brackets using a grinder and drill. Also use new nuts and bolts.
The Cat shield needs to be dropped to replace these cables. To get to a bracket on the right cable one of the b-pipe's shield also needs to be dropped.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
I replaced my OE parking brake cables last March with new ones I purchased from EBAY for only $66 total.
C95004 (right)
C95003 (left)
They fit fine and come with new brackets. If you cannot afford new cables then make your own brackets using a grinder and drill. Also use new nuts and bolts.
The Cat shield needs to be dropped to replace these cables. To get to a bracket on the right cable one of the b-pipe's shield also needs to be dropped.
C95004 (right)
C95003 (left)
They fit fine and come with new brackets. If you cannot afford new cables then make your own brackets using a grinder and drill. Also use new nuts and bolts.
The Cat shield needs to be dropped to replace these cables. To get to a bracket on the right cable one of the b-pipe's shield also needs to be dropped.
I got a complete used piece for $8, both side cables and the connecting string, removing it myself. I cant just hook up the banjos to a new piece, the whole old piece has to be removed. If you can get around the heat shields with all the pipes in tact, thats great. will look again.
I did them the other day. The hard part is working around the main cat.
1) Get a wobbly 10mm socket, a can of PB Blaster, and a 6"+ extension. You'll also want some extra-long needlenose pliers. Real goggles are a good idea since rust will fall on your face and safety glasses really aren't good enough for that. My safety glasses didn't protect from rust falling off my cheeks and into my eyes.
2) Lift the car on all four corners, or at least have the front wheels on a short ramp before you lift the rear. Lift the rear high.
3) There are two heat shields - one is mounted transversely, and is held by two bolts - spray them both with PB Blaster. Find the 2 bolts at each end of the main cat heat sheild and the 2 nuts on the sides and spray them.
4) Remove both wheels, and loosen the e-brake. Then loosen the nut on the ebrake until the nut is near the end of the threaded piece.
5) Unhook the ends of each parking brake cable, and remove the 2 brackets holding it to the trailing arm.
6) Remove the heat shield on the pass. side, it's two bolts. Enjoy the fact the penetrating oil has had some time to work in. Remove the shield. Now remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding down the main cat heat shield. You'll need the wobbly socket for the bolts. Rotate it around as necessary, and remove the last two brackets of each brake cable, again using the wobbly socket and extension. Now reach past the cat and unhook the nubbed end of the cable from the split block. These are just like the metal blobs on the end of a bicycle brake cable - you have to turn them 90° and lift it out the side. Doing it one-handed is a bugger, so I found that one hand + needlenose pliers worked a little better. Be patient here.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, just be sure to tighten the brake cable nut under the ebrake handle until you can get 8 clicks with moderate effort.
Dave
1) Get a wobbly 10mm socket, a can of PB Blaster, and a 6"+ extension. You'll also want some extra-long needlenose pliers. Real goggles are a good idea since rust will fall on your face and safety glasses really aren't good enough for that. My safety glasses didn't protect from rust falling off my cheeks and into my eyes.
2) Lift the car on all four corners, or at least have the front wheels on a short ramp before you lift the rear. Lift the rear high.
3) There are two heat shields - one is mounted transversely, and is held by two bolts - spray them both with PB Blaster. Find the 2 bolts at each end of the main cat heat sheild and the 2 nuts on the sides and spray them.
4) Remove both wheels, and loosen the e-brake. Then loosen the nut on the ebrake until the nut is near the end of the threaded piece.
5) Unhook the ends of each parking brake cable, and remove the 2 brackets holding it to the trailing arm.
6) Remove the heat shield on the pass. side, it's two bolts. Enjoy the fact the penetrating oil has had some time to work in. Remove the shield. Now remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding down the main cat heat shield. You'll need the wobbly socket for the bolts. Rotate it around as necessary, and remove the last two brackets of each brake cable, again using the wobbly socket and extension. Now reach past the cat and unhook the nubbed end of the cable from the split block. These are just like the metal blobs on the end of a bicycle brake cable - you have to turn them 90° and lift it out the side. Doing it one-handed is a bugger, so I found that one hand + needlenose pliers worked a little better. Be patient here.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, just be sure to tighten the brake cable nut under the ebrake handle until you can get 8 clicks with moderate effort.
Dave
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 375
From: Ottawa
thanks dave. the thing with my car is that, because of rust on the current and used replacement parts, the banjo bike attachments will not come out without breaking the connector joist where the 2 cables unite. Also, the single line connected to the brake handle will not slide thru the 2 bolt brace plate inside the console, so i need enough room around the resonator and pipe to get the old one out and new one in. That remains to be seen as to if its possible or not without removing or cutting pipe. Heat shields are not a problem or atleast not a prohibitive one. I have PB Blaster. 
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