I had honestly given up on the car and was going to junk it and buy something else. I've had this problem for 3 mo, car is undrivable. Went to LKQ they offered me $60... After trying a few other places best offer was $80. Not gonna help me buy another car so I'm stuck with it.

Symptoms:
Get in and start car, car runs rough but after a few minutes it evens out. If I drive as soon As I start it, car drives perfect for about a minute. After that point, or if I let it warm up first any time I get it to 2000 rpm it jumps and bucks like mad. If I rev engine drop clutch light up tires and drive crazy as long as I keep it above 3000 it won't buck. Once its warm and idleing I can sit there and play with gas pedal, some times when I rev it a little it will start out missing then smooth out, but not all the time.

I've changed maf(never got p0100), both crank sensors(both codes were there), 3 injectors(#3(57ohms),5(24ohms),6(9ohms) all the rest are right around 12 ohms(never had any injectors codes) and cam sensor(had code, even after I changed it, still have code) and I did not change knock sensor, or o2 sensor 1bank 1. There is no o2 sensor after cat, there is no cat. Just wires hanging.

I don't know how to rest fuel preasure. I have a code reader that has a live readout. After a while with driving it will say fuel system 1 open loop fault if that helps, I figured it was from bad o2 sensor.

 

Try pulling all the injectors and check the orings and pintle caps. I had basically these exact symptoms and missing pintle caps on a few injectors was the culprit - car would stutter and fight at around 3000rpm and then suddenly blast off like a bat out of hell if i kept at it. I could reproduce it at any rpm though, if i let off the gas, coasted for a second, and then floored it - the car would stutter and hesitate until i let off the gas just a hair, where it would then smooth out.

Also look for white smoke out the tailpipe, which would be an indicator of this as well.

 

Could be a number of things. Have you tried downloading the fsm from someone here on the forum? That may be a good idea rather than have put much money into parts that may not have been necessary being you still have the same issue. Sounds like it could be a weak coil (s ) breaking down or even the tps but the fsm should show you how to test for resistance, voltage etc. On your sensors so you can do a process of elimination until you find the culprit though with those resistance values on those injectors it was a good idea to change them. Like previously stated it could also be an injector not seated properly or bad or pinched o ring or broken pintle cap.

 

I think it's more then likely you have a bad coil pack or two.

 

Pintle caps are fine, orings all good and new, they seated fine. I took them all out and rechecked. I'll start testing coils next.

 

have a good feeling its gonna be the coils, but use the right ones, aftermarket have their issues.. so if u can stick to OEM.

 

So.....we have 3 cam sensors...? 1 on passenger side n 2 on driver side?...

 

Sorry in advanced for the rambling...

You guys always go quiet when I talk about cam sensors.. So I'm lost, 3.5s have 3 cam sensors. 3.0s have 1? So sick of bangin my head... If there are 3 on 3.0s one of the driver side is bad on my car... been digging on other forums and I saw someone with a somewhat similar issue on one of them. He Replaced all timing components and it was fixed. Claimed one of his cam chains stretched? It made something my uncle said to me echo in my head, he heard loud clicking coming from front cams. I heard it too, it sounded just like when my big chain tensioner went out. So, what would happen if my cam chain tensioner went out?

 

How many miles on the car? If you have a loose timing chain, I bet that's throwing the timing way off when the car is warm. I say this because before my 396k mile engine gave up, I had symptoms that made me think my coils were bad plus my car would idle high after driving it. My replacement engine doesn't do any of that and I'm using the same coils.

 

Test the ECTS and TPS. Download the fsm from my signature for trouble shooting.

 

Haha I have 3 cam type sensors on my early produced 02 maxima. One on each cylinder head. Bank 1 driver side bank 2 driver side. One straight style, one 90 degree. The third sensor is my Crank sensor. Same thing in design from what I understand. Same thing as wheel speed/abs sensors thinking about it. But I think post 03 ish they added at least 2 more on the passenger side timing cover . Yeah.. download a fsm. Pm me if you need more help

 

3 year old post